I have problems with the connectors when I change Hotends
Sometimes it works right away and other times I have to remove and reconnect the connectors several times…
I can’t really figure out how and when they are seated correctly…
Is it only me who has problems with the connectors or is it a general problem.
It is an issue for me also. The hot end and the toolhead cover wire. It’s actually the thing that would make me hesitate buying another Bambu printer. I change nozzles a couple times a month a least. I believe the H2D is setup different but I’m not going to buy one just so I can have a 0.4 & 0.2 nozzle sitting next to each other or take advantage of a different nozzle change system. If I want a laser system I will buy a dedicated system. This is all personal use case. I like printing with my P1S and most people seem to love the H2D but the connector setup on the P1S is really hard for older hands and eyes.
It’s not you!!!
The connectors Bambu used were never intended for this purpose. It’s one of those corner-cutting choices they made that doesn’t become obvious until you’re doing maintenance. The A1 series, by contrast, was clearly designed with better serviceability in mind.
Unfortunately, there are no shortcuts when it comes to reconnecting them. The most important tip I’ve found is to use a bright light source aimed directly at the toolhead during service. It might sound obvious, but it made a big difference for me. Make sure the glass is removed and the toolhead is positioned comfortably for access. A pair of 7" long-nose pliers also helps—one of the first things I added to my toolkit since my sausage fingers can barely grasp the connector. Just be careful: using pliers removes the tactile feedback you get with your fingers. I only use them to seat the connector and finish by hand so I can feel the click.
This might sound like a low-tech workaround, but it’s the only reliable method I can recommend.
thank you very much for the answer that sounds right
yes you are absolutely right
I am 72 years old and have done a lot of electronics but these connectors are annoying so you lose the desire to change Hotends
Thanks for sharing this information. I swapped a .4 for .8 no problem, but then I needed to put back in the .4, and it was very difficult, I got error message “0300-8010-230704”, the fan was abnormal. Eventually it seems to be working, but these connections are very finicky.
At 61 I have been an electronic repair guy most of my life but I am having the same issue, I swapped out my 0.4 to 0.6 today and kept getting the fan error. Finally after removing and reinstalling the plug 4 times I finally got it to work without the error. Not great plugs especially for something that should be an easy swap out.
The connectors are designed so they can be connected with just 50% of the pins actually being in the socket.
You have to be really careful when marrying them together.
Unlike all other socket/plug solutions, there is no way to stop them being plugged in the right way up ^ or stopping you from attaching just 50% of the pins as you can place it on the bottom or top halves §.
^ Only the short length of the cable will stop this if you connect them after screwing in the nozzle.
§ The thickness of the plugs mean you can’t easily see you have covered only the top or bottom half as they are covered by the plug body.
Make sure you visually line up the plug to the socket because the pins will not help you line it up.
I also had problems changing…Hotend and I also got I got error message “0300-8010-230704”, the fan was abnormal. so I changed the fan and the error disappeared???
when I examined the bad fan it turned out that it had cracked in the plastic casing in the corner where the wires are above…so when I mounted the Hotend the wires pressed the casing down so the fan blade could not turn
I also (85 yo) have trouble I started to change hotend on my P1P and could not put it back together. I am very experienced electronics geek with 31 year career with IBM in evry phase of design, testing and management.
I had one of my sons put it back on.
I had the same problem, before i installed a plastic guide that surrounds all the connectors, when you plug them in.
Bambu Lab Saver Printhead Plug Misalignments protection P1P, P1S, X1E(2).3mf (1.1 MB)
I have the same problem. It seats 50% way too easily and it makes it more expensive for third part parts. I disliked the standard Bambulab nozzles (hotends). It is a pain to swap and if you do it all right the first time, maybe 5min on a nozzle swap. It is a stupid design. What I did do is buy a TZ4.0 hotend and nozzles. The nozzle unscrew in seconds, (with a spanner) and I can swap it in about 30 seconds - I sometimes forget to put the sock back on though! The nozzle goes all the way through the hotend and sits flush at the top. They work really well at a fraction of the price of Bambu hotend nozzles. Sadly lately my extruder is giving me problems. It simply cannot push filament out. The gears are free, the pinch wheels are clean, bit the filament get as far as the cutter. I thought the cutter blade is not pulling back as it constantly showed “cutter did not retract” or something, but by the time I check, it is out of the way. I just did a blade swap with the same problem. The bit of filament in the TZ4 nozzle comes out super easy, even when mostly cold, so it must be higher up. Of course the filament extrudes normally when I am feeding it from fresh, but as soon a I send a print job, it jams before the first 5min layer is down. 
Hi, I got this problem while changing s-steel to hardened nozzle. The place to pry quite thick and sturdy wires behind is WERY narrow. Never-less the connectors don’t seat firmly and release itself by easiest touch of the wires. Sadly I couldn’t sense any click even if pressed firmly with finger grip on both sides (front: thumb, case backside: index finger) after the connectors were partly inserted. Still no click insert but now the error for heater cooling is not present. The question is for how long and what to do to make
connectors seat secure.
If you remove the fan (temporarily) from the hotend, there is a little tab that is part of the fan body that prepositions the fans power plug in a less than optimal position.
I take my snips and cut that little tab off which allows some more freedom of movement of the fan power plug. It is pretty standard on these small fans, regardless of the application.
I then make sure the thermistor and heater wires are tucked into the slot in the cooling fins. Doing those two things makes lining up the screws to install the hotend to the toolhead much easier. You don’t have to force the hotend up as aggressively to line up the screws.