Bambu PETG Basic Print Failures

I’m also new to 3-D printing. My first prints with the included PLA were very good. I then tried some red Sunlu PETG, using Studio’s generic PETG settings, which made a total mess. Stringing, blobs, poor/no adhesion. I unsuccessfully tried several changes and finally printed a temperature tower, and found that just raising the nozzle temperature 5° (255°→260°) cleared up most of the problems. Running more calibrations using Orca-Slicer cleared up the rest of the issues.

Later, I got some silver Inland PETG, which worked OK using the red Sunlu settings, but needed some flow and pressure advance tweaks (Orca-Slicer) for best results.

So I expected decent results when I ran some black Inland PETG for the first time, using the silver Inland profile. Again, totally unusable. Testing showed that filament works much better at 250°C, with different flow and PA numbers than either the red Sunlu or silver Inland PETG.

My conclusion is that a different manufacturer or color makes a difference in the optimum (or even acceptable) settings. I don’t bother printing with a new filament or color anymore until I’ve calibrated at least temperature and flow, and I’m finding I can sometimes reduce print time on some models if the tests allow increasing maximum flowrate.

The filament profiles included with Studio are just starting points. You can make random guesses at which number to change, how much to change, and in which direction. That might work, but you may not have found the best setting. The Orca-Slicer calibrations show the results of using a range of settings, letting you see and select the best.