I received the PETG Basic Lake Blue filament on 12 July and immediately installed it in my AMS then kicked off a print using all the default Bambu Studio settings. The print had tons of stringing. I then dried the filament at 65C, re-calibrated my P1P, and set the K factor for the filament only to have the print fail again. I even slowed down from 200mm/s outer wall to 60mm/s without success.
I have had no issues printing the same part using esun brand PETG. Has anyone else had issues with the Bambu PETG filament? I expected it to flawlessly out of the box.
This too I wonder. I’ve found every spool of official Bambu filament I’ve tried to be so wet it kills the desiccant packs in the AMS. A spool of support W was so wet it drove the humidity over 45% in less than an hour. I now dry Bambu filament over night in my EBIOS Easdry before first use. My Bambu clear easy PETG have all come out serviceable with the stock settings. I’m too lazy to tinker.
A few weeks ago, there was a similar thread that you may find in the forum.
In summary, the solution shared by two persons was to use the generic PETG profile instead of the BL one. I hope this also solves your problems. The filament is recent, and I expect the following studio software will have it improved. Anyway, I am sharing others’ experiences, no guarantee.
I did come across that thread. The print on the lower right in the image I attached is using the generic profile. It is slightly better but still not usable. Maybe I will try to adjust some print settings to see if I can get it working better.
you could try with a copy of the generic and use that in the orca slicer to calibrate flow and pa , it might improve a little again.
btw for what its worth i slowed outerwallspeed to 200 seems a tad better for me
Similar issue here.
I’m newbie to 3D printing and thought, to be sure : let’s buy Bambu PetG filament with Bambu’s profile in Bambu’s printer X1C …
Driving me crazy & curious to see how it can be solved.
Thx
I’m currently making little color samples out of all my PETG filaments, and I’ll say the same about the Bambu Lab PETG. My results look absolutely awful, right out of the box. I got white, purple, and lake blue. All three rolls have been an absolute mess. My best results have come from generic filament using the generic profile. The Bambu PETG Basic is the biggest waste of money I have had yet since I started this hobby a few months ago, and it’s good to see I’m not the only one having serious issues.
I have been getting consistently very good, sometimes excellent, results with Bambu PETG. I am using the Bambu PETG profile but slowing everything down by about 1/3. I dry the filament for 8 hours at 55c and then print directly from the Eibos where I keep the filament at 50c. I haven’t been as successful printing from the AMS (which would be improved if it had its own heater, not just desiccant storage, in my opinion)
I did switch to the hardened extruder and nozzle immediately before testing out this new filament. I also have the secondary cooling fan installed. I have considered switching back to the stock parts, but since my other PETG is printing without any issues that didn’t seem to be the likely cause. I will try to print with 1/3 slower speeds like Hochan suggested. Sounds like I’m not the only one having issues with the Bambu PETG.
I’m also new to 3-D printing. My first prints with the included PLA were very good. I then tried some red Sunlu PETG, using Studio’s generic PETG settings, which made a total mess. Stringing, blobs, poor/no adhesion. I unsuccessfully tried several changes and finally printed a temperature tower, and found that just raising the nozzle temperature 5° (255°→260°) cleared up most of the problems. Running more calibrations using Orca-Slicer cleared up the rest of the issues.
Later, I got some silver Inland PETG, which worked OK using the red Sunlu settings, but needed some flow and pressure advance tweaks (Orca-Slicer) for best results.
So I expected decent results when I ran some black Inland PETG for the first time, using the silver Inland profile. Again, totally unusable. Testing showed that filament works much better at 250°C, with different flow and PA numbers than either the red Sunlu or silver Inland PETG.
My conclusion is that a different manufacturer or color makes a difference in the optimum (or even acceptable) settings. I don’t bother printing with a new filament or color anymore until I’ve calibrated at least temperature and flow, and I’m finding I can sometimes reduce print time on some models if the tests allow increasing maximum flowrate.
The filament profiles included with Studio are just starting points. You can make random guesses at which number to change, how much to change, and in which direction. That might work, but you may not have found the best setting. The Orca-Slicer calibrations show the results of using a range of settings, letting you see and select the best.
Thank your for the suggestions. I just downloaded Orca and will run through the various calibrations and then ensure I have enabled the settings you listed. Hopefully that will offer some improvement.
I received this suggestion from Bambu support. It aligns with what everyone else has been saying. I’m in the process of running through the Orca calibrations and will post when I have completed that process.
I was much more successful with changing the temperature to 260C and the max volumetric speed down to 10. Still not perfect but also not a complete failure. It seems like I am not having great bonding between layers. I will continue to run the Orca calibrations to see I can get some improvement. Maybe I need to go even hotter than 260C
I know this is not gonna help, but the PETG that has been the best overall is hatchbox… print that like there’s no tomorrow … the BL PETG has been a thorn in my side
That won’t help for this spool but I definitely may switch to hatchbox moving forward. I spent enough time tinkering and learning with my Ender that I’d rather be printing stuff than fighting with settings.
I’ve printed 5kg+ of Overture PETG in three different colors without issues. I did a full filament calibration with Orca Slicer first to get them dialed in though. I’m sure glad I didn’t buy and BBL PETG based on these reports. I have the Max Volumetric Speed set to 23mm³/s and it prints great at high speeds. I do limit Top/Bot/Outer to 50mm/s though for perfect results.
