Hi, today I used OrcaSlicer Beta, which includes the Bambu PETG-HF filament selection. First time for me, but I performed the Orca manual calibration using Bambu PETG-HF White filament. Here are my results.
Column 1
Column 2
Column 3
Column 4
Bambu default
OrcaSlicer
0.95
0.99
Flow Rate
0.02
0.028
Pressure Advance
21
25
Volumetric Speed
I initially tried the Orca Max Flow rate set at start 5 mm³/sec to 30 mm³/sec with Steps of 0.5 mm³/s. But this flawlessly printed to completion at 51 mm high, equal to 30.5 mm³/sec. So I tried another test. But this time using 10 mm³/sec to 50 mm³/sec with Steps of 1.0 mm³/sec. This time the hotend showed problems above 23 mm high. Or a flow rate of 33 mm³/sec.
So it seems that the Bambu flow rate of 21 mm³/sec is quite conservative. I have set my profile for Volume at 25 mm³/sec.
However, one thing is when tearing is evident and another is impact on wall thickness. The decrease of wall thickness could be said to tolerate a -10 to -15 % (at the most), but any more than that, and the part will be significantly weakened. To gauge this, a graph showing the wall thickness at different layer heights would be more suitable.
Nevertheless, it’s nice to know that the filament’s flow rate is this great. Just curious: Are you using the default 0.4mm nozzle on stock hotend, or do you have a fancier setup…?
My calibration results are different for every nozzle, so you need to do this for every nozzle and include which nozzle is used for which results.
Yes, it does look like the PETG-HF is a winner!
I never thought about the wall thickness. But here are the results every 5mm upto where I decided to stop, the 23 mm point. These are two sections randomly cut off from the 10-50 mm³/sec test piece. The other test piece is also very consistent in thickness.
Yes, this is with the standard Bambu X1C 0.4mm nozzle. I am curious about trying the 0.6mm nozzle, maybe tomorrow…
That’s insane for the default nozzle! I dialed it down to 20 mm3/s flow rate from the default 21, but I can clearly see that I can throw it back up to 21… or even 25, and even be pretty safe. Thanks for taking the time for measuring the wall thickness!
NP. TBH, I kind of wish that there was a hotend system that made swapping out the nozzles sizes a bit more convenient. I will do the same test using the Bambu 0.6mm nozzle and leave the results here soon.
There is a system for easier nozzle swapping, which is tailor made for Bambu Lab printers - but it’s 3rd part. I just buy complete hotends from Bambu Lab and change those, that’s pretty fast.
However, that high flow E3D obXidian is looking mighty attractive, but the price is also fairly steep.
@jakobdam Here are the results using the Bambu PETG-HF filament using a standard 0.6mm Bambu hotend. Some interesting results.
I did two runs the first 10-30 mm³/s, in 0.5 mm³/s steps this was completed with no problem. Wall thickness consistent at 0.92mm all the way. So I did another test, this time 10-50 mm³/s in 1 mm³/s steps. This, I judge, failed at the 24mm level. Which represents a flow rate 34 mm³/s
I thought that the 0.6mm nozzle test would fail before the above 0.4mm test. But this isn’t the case. Note. I was having an issue with the filament sticking to the PEI textured plate. I changed the nozzle temp to 245 First layer and 245 other layers.
My calibration results are
Flow ratio 0.9025
Pressure advance 0.024
Max Volumetric speed 25 (Though I believe that this can be set a bit higher)
There are (3) hotend replacements, that I am aware of, that allow for quick nozzle swaps.
Biqu Revo - available now
Slice Mako - shipping within 1-2 months
Swiss 3Dc DBH - pre order unknown eta
Revo uses Revo nozzles of course, Mako uses the new FIN standard, and Swiss uses their own proprietary nozzle.
We have obXidian nozzles on all our X and P machines but have Makos on order due to easy nozzle changes and the ability to run multiple nozzle types like Diamond Backs or CHTs
Thank you for all the details. I have switched between 0.2, 0.4 and 0.6 maybe six times now. Though it is fairly quick, and I have printed the special plug removal tweezers set. I still feel a bit uncomfortable doing it. Like the feeling that possibly this time I swap the assembly I slip and break something!
I’m not going to buy anything soon. But maybe when you get the Mako’s you can let others know about your experience with them. Thanks for taking the time.
Yeah it’s pretty simple on the A series but X and P are a little tedious due to the electrical connections. I see a lot of people in various discords having issues after their first hotend change. Mostly human error but those little connectors can be a challenge, especially for old guys like me and failing eye sight
I’ll be happy to share my experience with the Mako setup, really looking forward to it. The obXidian nozzles have been great so far, although we don’t push them very hard haha. Most filaments surface quality varies too much with flow rate to print fast. We are mostly using Matte PLA and PETG-HF now to counter that as much as possible.
That Mako FIN Nozzle from Slice looks very interesting, thanks for making me aware of those.
I ahve no experience with SliceEngineering; I hope their quality is up to it, as I have read about the Biqu Revos on the various sites selling them (for example the buyer comments on 3DJake), on Reddit, and elsewhere, and there is a sustained pattern of miss-drilled mounting holes (wrong spacing, location, diameter or missing entirely) and also incorrectly hooked up wires, that I would be very happy to get the same functionality (trival nozzle swaps, more flow) from a place that manages to consistently deliver functioning parts.
@ModelThreeve Hi, well I looked at the Mako site. I’m in Holland and I chose the hotend, plus 3x nozzles and the torque wrench. The net cost is €215 (not bad), then comes €50 shipping cost (exorbitant), taxes (21%), and maybe import duty bringing the potential cost to €300 ($330) or so. Anyway, asked them if they have a European distributor. It’s a really nice looking solution, but a bit hard to justify ATM.
I’m pleased that you are having success with using the PETG-HF. I decided to try it as a potential standard filament for prototyping etc. From my calibration results above, you can see that it can be pushed quite a long way. I have not even dried the stuff. There is another thread where folks don’t seem to like it. I have also calibrated some Esun PETG-HS and it’s not likely the same filament as Bambu is using as the results differ quite a bit.
Thanks for posting this! I just got my first batch of Bambu PETG HF yesterday. I dried it at 65c / 149f for 9 hours, and then immediately put it into a dry box with 500g of desiccant to keep it dry overnight before doing some testing.
This morning I ran some tests. On my P1S with E3D Obxidian High Flow 0.4mm nozzle, I get the following results:
Bambu PETG-HF, Black, printed at 245 degrees C
Flow rate: 0.9875
Pressure advance: 0.028
Max volumetric flow: 35 mm3/s
I ran a max vol flow test of 15-35 mm3/s and it came out immaculate all the way to the top. It’s possible it could go a little higher, but in testing I get 35 mm3/s for Bambu PLA Basic before things fall apart, and usually run it at 30-32 mm3/s just to be safe- so I will probably do the same with the PETG-HF. I might try another test up to 45 mm3/s just to see how far it can actually go, but I doubt it will go much higher. It’s still WAY faster than the old PETG from Bambu!
The Obxidian HF nozzle claims 60% more flow than the stock nozzle, and I find that to be accurate. I wasn’t sure if I was wasting my money on it at first, but after using it for a couple of months I think it’s worth the price.
I’m super impressed with this filament so far- it’s not as plasticky shiny as normal PETG, and has printed super smoothly.
@nakleh Hi, I’m going to adopt this PETG HF as a favourite, I cannot find any reason not to ATM.
But I have a question. By chance, do you use an AMS? I’m asking because I am not being very successful getting the calibration factors into the AMS PA profile.
Yes I do use an AMS. And I noticed the PA profile drop down doesn’t work (not sure for how long though). But the AMS profile in the Device tab is just for looks and automatic switching really anyway. The parameters you set in the filament profile are what matters most.
Slice is a top notch manufacturer and is located in the United States. They are actually the OEM hot end for a couple different industrial machines. They partner with OEMs when making aftermarket parts for their machines as well. Really looking for to the Mako/FIN ill keep you guys posted
Yeah as Bambu mention PETG-HF must be dried before use, which can be a little inconvenient be we will probably buy a couple more S4’s to deal with that. Being that it’s not really a direct replacement for PETG Basic it is a little odd that they got rid of Basic. Its not nearly as tough as PETG Basic so for those that need toughness look elsewhere, and the surface finish is satin so that will just be a preference thing
