I have yet to find anyone running into the issue of lack of adhesion on the cold plate while using stock settings and Bambu PLA Basic, Organic support generation.
But over the weekend I’ve had almost a dozen failures with varying settings such as setting the first layer to 10mm/s even on travel.
I am using the basic glue stick provided and this is a brand new printer.
I thoroughly degrease the bed and my hands then dry the plate including the use of a heat gun on it’s lowest settings (safe to touch warm) to really remove the moisture layer before applying the glue.
I’ve been absolutely methodical and have solved the issue with overkill techniques such as listed above. But it really bothers me that nobody else has encountered this at all. What am I doing wrong?
I feel a lot of the blame lies with the organic supports lacking a robust generation, allowing unwanted micro vibrations.
Pictures of the failures untouched on the plate would help. It’s difficult to understand what failures you are encountering based on your post. First layers? Only Supports? All filaments or only one?
Unfortunately I lacked an SD card at the time of most of my first layer issues, I was merely curious if anyone has had a similar experience and what they did to combat it.
For reference I am printing the 10" Mandalorian from Gambody 3D in the pre arranged orientations that everyone else has used, and mostly stock settings in the slicer save for the organic supports.
I can upload some of the time lapses from after first layer issues were sorted (usually bigger brim settings) and I started hitting collisions and or other issues such as vibrations if you wish to see the model’s orientations or I could show you the sliced images from Studio?
For future reference I am using a single PLA Basic Silver refill from Bambu. Organic Supports, and have had first layer adhesion issues on the model itself more than the supports.
Personally, I never use PLA Basic for my action figures. I try to always use PLA+/PLA-PLUS. I always seem to get better details (printing with .2 Nozzle at .05-.08-layer height).
(Now I need to specify that I usually print my figures in either black, gray or white filament, depending on how I plan to paint them. Doing this, plus Dremel sanding, and applying a primer coat goes a long way to smoothing everything out while not losing detail.)
Also, I have purchased a bunch of stuff from Gambody as well and I no longer trust anyone’s “recommended” orientations anymore. First of all, the Bambu is still too new to get a lot of input from people like us who print action figures and not production parts. Secondly, I think there are just way too many variables involved.
What worked best for me was to take a part (say an arm, for example), clone it multiple times, and then orient each one differently (sometimes only slightly different) with the same supports. By the way, I usually paint my own supports now that I have a better understanding of where they are needed. A lot of the times I will add modifiers to strengthen up an area that I am having difficulty with or fine tune the resolution. Then I would examine the results and either go with the best one or print more of the same by modifying the best one even more. In other words, I go through a whole boat load of filament so much that I am on a first name basis with most of the salespeople at Micro Center.
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Your information is invaluable, I am taking away a lot from this.
I’m coming from a resin background and have been adjusting to Bambu Studio (It’s pretty slick honestly) and am hoping to get into the more advanced modifiers/volumes and painting capabilities the slicer offers.
Do you have a social presence I could check out so I’m not soaking up a lot of your time and could passively learn more? I can’t thank you enough for reaching out!
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Thanks for the kind words.
I abhor social media so this is about the extent of my social presence. And it is absolutely no bother answering any questions you have. Most of the questions on this forum I don’t have a single clue what is being talked about, so it is nice to have some questions I can actually help with.
The slicer has a setting specifically for this problem - first layer speed. I’ve been FDM printing since 2010-ish (and SLA since 2015). I always run the first layer slow. I rarely have print failures on the first layer because of that.
Also, even though PLA doesn’t technically need a heated plate, heating the plate will help with adhesion.
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Yep, I’ve been using 10mm/s for first layer print and travel now, I’d much rather wait a few extra minutes than waste materials, time and maintenance.
This seems to sort out most the of issues, though auto generation of supports (specifically organic) lacks a few things I find that standard supports are not struggling with, after muuu … uuch failure and testing.
So much failure…