I printed an Easter bunny and it sticks so hard to the print plate that it broke when it was removed, no problem so far, but I can no longer get the rest of the print completely off the plate.
What could be the problem? This extreme adhesion to the plate was already abnormal.
Mine too, I tried isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) but it look like if I remove a sort of coating, could that be the case ?
I had that problem with Bambu ASA filament.
I tried isopropanol and soapy water. It doesnât work off. Sometimes it really looks like the coating is.
I just tried a new pei plate and now I have the same problem on the new plate.
I think it has to do with the Silk Filament.
Same here, I was given a brand new sealed spool of Bambu silk from a friend. Not only does it not print well, there is something in their formula which leaches out then bonds permanently to any plate I have used. This is not only PEI but my engineering plate, Hight Temp plate, PEO and PEA plates. It is the devils spawn second only to TPU.
I now keep that spool around solely as a test subject for trying out new ideas on problem filaments. Itâs become the equivalent of a lab specimen at a forensics lab of how not to produce a filament.
I used to just believe that it was silk in general until I tried other silk filaments, nope⌠itâs Bambuâs recipe thatâs at fault. You live and learn is the way I look at it. I would have probably been angry had I paid for it and the person who gave it to me did indeed warned me ahead of time that he stopped buying Bambuâs silk for exactly this reason.
Good info here. Iâve used bambuâs silk on my SMOOTH double sided PEI plate with immaculate results, but today I tried it on my textured pei and I actually cannot remove the calibration strips or a brim thatâs only one layer tall - at all. I donât want to take a metal scraper to it but all of my plastic ones arenât cutting it. So weird.
I just had the same with silk gold on my smooth PEI plate. I used the gold for lettering in the middle of the print.
Not only did the gold lettering get ripped out of the print, the PEI surface was damaged exactly in the shape of the lettering.
The Bambu lab sparkle PLA used for the rest of the print came away cleanly so itâs definitely something with their silk filament. Like itâs got an acid in it that etches the plate.
eSun PLA silk did not do this - Iâve used plenty of that with no problems.
Have never used glue before for PLA but will have to now, to get through this roll.
Really disappointing given itâs twice the price.
weirdâŚ
I have four spools of Bambu PLA Silk (gold, silver, white, purple) and never had issues so far on the golden textured PEI or cold plate.
My issue was the black smooth PEI plate.
Could be thereâs something different about the gold colour.
Do you also use glue?
Pretty sure I destroyed one side of my build plate like this also. It should be ârequiredâ to use glue instead of ârecommendedâ and warn about destroying your build plate surface.
I am really glad I found this thread. I will use glue with the rest of my Bambu Silk filament and probably wonât purchase any more of itâŚ
Use a Dab of Acetone to get that off the textured plate. it should work better than IPA. you poor saps with the ruined PEI sheets though. good to know that I shouldnât use silk on that sheet.
I have never understood how BL filaments require glue when I have never used glue on any print with any PLA, PETG or TPU.
I have used every sub-type of PLA including silks, I have never had a problem getting it to stick or release and certainly no marks afterwards on the build plates.
This was as true before I moved to BL printers as it has been with several BL printers.
All I hear about BL filaments is they ruin the AMS, jam the AMS, weld themselves to or ruin build plates.
I can only imagine what they are putting in them.
I have some BL PLA basic which work fine and some BL PLA Matte I have yet to try, fingers crossed.
I wonât be buying any other types.
My Flashforge guider 2 used these and I would have to use glue for TPU, and Silk would degrade them so fast that after about a month of heavy silk use I would have to recondition it with acetone to make it stick to silk again but I could only do that 1 or 2 times before it would start to crack the surface. Let me tell you getting these off with a heat gun to replace them and using goo gone on the adhesive left behind on the spring steel was probably the single most frustrating thing ive ever done in relation to 3d printing. Build TapeĂ5ďźpcsďź For Flashforge Guider 2/2S 3D Printer
I have managed to recreate this problem using Bambu Silk PLA purple, for some reason the dual red blue kind didnât cause this problem, as you can see a thorough scrub with acetone has removed it from the textured plate. I hope this helps
I had the same issue using TPU. The surface of the PEI plate was severely damaged. I found a neat solution. Using 3M Blue Painterâs Tape I covered the plate surface (omitting the ID piece) and it worked fine. I only had to pull the blue tape off the plate for a perfect result. There is only a very slight texture from the blue tape but it is very minor.
I am using glue now with Bambu silk with no issues.
I found the screenshot you shared after the issue occurred. Unfortunately I was using the Bambu specs for the smooth PEI sheet which doesnât mention different types of PLA just says PLA requires glue.
I submitted a support request asking for this information to be added to the smooth PEI sheet data table so others donât suffer the same fate.
It isnât the end of the world once glue is used, just have to remember to apply if using silk
hey you, be nice with tpu? its not tpu, its youđ
what brand filament and what printer do you have, i will give the settings i use if i got itđ
i make cansleave from tpu for six years nowđ great result. 0% stringing,100% transparent. sold so so many, prolly hundreds in each color that esun has.
