You will find your solution in the X-Y adjustment in quality settings. Your options are global or object but by-object lets you get more granular.
X-Y Hole makes adjustments for enclosed shapes whereas X-Y contour makes adjustments to outer shapes. In your case since it’s the perimeter dimensions you want to adjust, use contour.
________________________________________________________________
Here’s a handy little trick I learned that will speed up your experimentation and save time and filament. This works wonders when doing slotted or tabbed inserts, I discovered this when printing my own P1P enclosure and ran into tolerance issues with the snap tabs and it should be noted that those 3MF files were tested and supported by Bambu themselves. Nevertheless, they were not perfect and filing or tuning was needed.
Here’s the HOW-TO
- Find the section of your model with the tabs you want to snap together.
- Using the slicers’s cutting tool, cut out only those sections and create a test set of objects.
- Then experiment on those using X-Y and you’ll have your adjustment dialed-in in as fast as you can say “Bob’s your Uncle”. (use +0.1 for increase of 0.1mm and -0.1 for shrinkage of 0.1mm across the entire dimension of the part.)
Furthermore, once you have that dialed in, save that in your filament profile. You’ll need it later for any precision fitment work for two parts you want to fit together
________________________________________________________________
In my case, I created a simple set of rectangles using primitives and negative parts within the slicer. No CAD work needed but if you have CAD you can dial-in real precise numbers. The test print I created is only 3mm tall and the results it produces is under five minutes thus allowing me lots of time for trial and error. You’ll want a set of calipers if you don’t already have one(between $9-$25 on Amazon). Then measure your objects
Here are the calipers I purchase four years ago. They were OK.
https://a.co/d/hneLYrY
Then I upgraded to full metal with large text and backlit. I love these things as I prefer to work in a light-subdued office.
https://a.co/d/8uPjrfL
If you want even greater precision.
The slicer’s primitives’ tool is admittedly a blunt instrument. Here’s a series of quick and dirty calibration parts I create in ONSHAPE each time I need them so grab these now if you want them because they will always be changing. The link is subject to frequent changes as I use this as a scratchpad
Look for the tab marked Calibration bar and export it to a STEP file then import into Orca or Bambu Studio. Remember STEP is far more accurate than an STL file.
The tabs on this model are marked based on exactly what I dialed into the CAD drawing. The tab above it is identical to the box inside.
- Print it.
- Measure the inner outer tabs and holes with the calipers
- then make X-Y adjustments and
- repeat until you get it where you want.
You can print up some tolerance coins off Printables and Thingiverse. But in my view, the do not provide anything meaningful other than what the slicer was told versus what it output.
Rather than printing up and wasting filament on an entire coin. Just print the 0.10 and 0.15 segments to see where your uncalibrated filament falls. Then use the tab above to truly dial-in filament compensation.
https://www.printables.com/model/471252-tolerance-coin-split-up
