Bambulab P1P Firmware Upgrade & Issues?

Evening all!

My first post here, so I’m not familiar with how this works. So here goes, essentially I upgraded my printer to the latest firmware which, all went well as expected. However, since doing so - I’ve had nothing but failed prints. Ranging from the printer essentially just stopping midprint, the head not moving anymore, while the bed and nozzle remain heated for numerous hours while printing.

During this time, I’ve experienced my prints failing midprint without any warning or notification. The printer constantly loses connection, the printer will also just start levelling without any instruction being given and so on. I’m not sure what is causing this, but I feel something is not right.

Has anyone else had similar issues and if so, how did you resolve them?

Thanks

r6o

Welcome to the forum!

That is some really odd behavior. Have you tried a factory reset and power cycle yet?

4 Likes

Thanks for the welcome!

With regards to the factory reset, should this be done via the onboard display or should I do this via the application?

Thanks

r6o

I would do it through the onboard display.

5 Likes

Okay, I’ve now performed a factory reset and done another Firmware Update after the machine prompted. I will now run the calibration and see what happens. Any changes or findings I will report back here.

Thanks

r6o

Update - so I’ve now done everything above. And while the machine seems to be running stable, I’m now seeing a new issue.


Notice - above image shows the layers of the print being “bumpy” thus making the nozzle make contact and loud scraping sounds as it passes over. This issue is present in any and all print speeds. I have checked nozzle settings, speed etc and it’s present regardless which filament settings I choose.

I used this filament (Polylite PLA Yellow) a lot before with the current settings, and while before it would print flawless, it’s now printing terrible. Any thoughts?

Thanks

r6o

This is very common with Grid infill and happens with other peoples printers. The best way to solve it is to use a non crossing infill like Gyroid.

3 Likes

As a test, I turned up the fan cooling the print - and it seems to have stopped the issue - I let the print continue - this is how it looks now. No more loud scraping noise, either.

Sorry to hijack here, but are there any other “non-crossing” infills or PETG-friendly infills? I’m only aware of Gyroid which I’d use for functional parts - but it’s somewhat “loud” or makes the printer sound like a jackhammer. Dampening the printer helps a lot in general, but Gyroid infill is a different beast. Its sound penetrates floors and walls like crazy. I still don’t dare to print Gyroid infill at 3am, since I don’t want to piss off my neighbors.

Prusa has a pretty good breakdown of all the infill patterns. There are more than a couple that are no crossing.

2 Likes

Good Patterns:
Rectilinear
Gyroid
Cubic
Adaptive Cubic

Special Patterns:
Concentric
Aligned rectilinear
Lightning

Avoid patterns:
Grid
Triangles
Line - We have better patterns to use

Merci! So according to them:

  • Rectilinear
  • Aligned Rectilinear
  • Line
  • Honeycomb
  • 3D Honeycomb
  • Gyroid

… do NOT cross paths.

The best tradeoff between speed, material use and strength (for functional parts) is still Gyroid it seems, right? Since Line and Rectilinear are not recommended for functional parts, only a few with the criteria “non-crossing” remain - and honeycomb just eats more filament, especially 3D honeycomb.

Is that right, so far?

If you need a very strong infill Cubic would be the best choice.