I picked up two rolls of PETG Basic for my X1C
Dried it for 6hours at 65C and I also put in 500g of desiccant into the unused ams slots to keep things dry while printing
Loading file it up in Bambu Slicer. Default Bambu Petg Basic profile. no changes
0.4 nozzle, 0.16 layers
Engineering Plate with Bambu Glue stick
Figured it should be fine,
yeah no, not this time
I use eSun PETG. Printer is OEM profile. Same for filament. High temp plate never glue.
I also do a bed level if just turned on and calibration before printing. If i still see this, the filament was always wet. I realized that you said you dried it.
Maybe a clogged nozzle. 
Must be a clog is my guess…
probs a clog really sorry to see this
After I stopped the print and changed profiles it printed fine… so doesnt seem like it was a clog
I have 7 rolls of Bambu PETG that arrived Friday. I plan on getting a bunch of practice in with it next week printing Hextraction game pieces.
Sunlu PETG has been printing like a dream, but Bambu came out with theirs right as I was getting ready to order more color choices.
What profile did you change to, i’m having a similar issue at regular profile temp, but if i bring it up to 285 it prints fine.
just switched to the generic petg profile
My first print with the stuff on the Bambu Lab PETG profile worked well but did have some issues for about 5-10mins. near the start. The issues did clean up after though, and the print completed ok. By “issues”, I mean that same stringy/clog looking printing (although not as bad as the OPs).
I too dried mine but went with 6 hours at 55C and then a second 3 hours at 65C (no good reason for splitting the dry). That got it down to around 18% relative humidity, which is where I started printing at.
We’ll see if it is problematic, but it definitely prints faster than my other PETG filaments (XVICO and Polymaker). However, it’s also possible these high max volumetric speeds might be a hair too high. That would make sense for why the OP got better results with the generic profile, as it is a slower printing profile. I would suggest running a max volumetric speed test to confirm. I’m curious to see if it really can print reliably at 14mm3, so I’m gonna run one myself.
In regard to my max vol speed test, I set the limits to 10-20mm3 and the whole thing printed super clean. I can’t find a single blemish. But note, I’m using a P1P with the basic flow settings (no fancy pre-print test with the lidar). So, the Bambu profile’s 14mm3 shouldn’t be an issue, but… the OP using a slower profile and getting better results seems very much speed/flow related.
I had no issues with the transparent PETG basic printing a lens for a yard light that’s 6” tall, 4” wide and 1.2mm thick. The thing I did notice is the humidity went from 10% (the lowest the gauge reads) to 30ish in a couple hours just from loading the spool in the AMS. The only filament that has done that is this PETG and Support W. Even after drying at 50C overnight, it still brings the AMS to 15-18% when loaded.
Had the same issue.
Generic PETG profile solved it.
I want a perfect Bambu PETG profile very bad!
Annoying, that the ORIGINAL profile failed so bad!
As we know, PETG is somewhat difficult to print. But, there is no such thing as a perfect profile… different vendors have different formulations. Even with a single vendor, there are variations depending upon color. I’ve had good success with Hatchbox PETG, except white needs a lower flow rate, and yellow is just a pain. I set up modified profiles for those two. Bed adhesion is also a problem, either too little or too much. I’m having good success with the Wham-bam PEX plate, but the Bambu ones also work with some tweaking. If it says to use glue stick, use it!
Low the only time i had similar issue when i upgraded to the latest firmware X1c , did not investigate just reverted back to 01.05.01.00 the firmware i had huge issues 01.05.02.00 (20230613) and did not have time to see what is the problem.
But in saying that here is my experience and what i use with the standard Bambu X1C 0.4mm hardened nozzle
Using Orca Slicer , very rarely using Bambu studio only if in a hurry with new filament and autoflow calibration is needed
Dry filament - never dried just open it and straight into the AMS or Box with plenty of silica . ( around 22%-24% measured in the box and in the AMS)
eSun eASA - pressure Advance 0.032, Flow 0.96, Fits Layer 250C, Other Layers 240C, Plate 90C used all Texture, High Temp and 100C for Eng plate. Max volumetric 19mm3/S
eSun ABS+ Pressure Adv 0.03 , Flow 0.97 , First Layer 260C, Other Layers 265C , All plates first layer 100C other layers 90C . Max volumetric 19mm3/S
eSun PETG and sunlue PETG ( not well tunned as was giving very good results and prefer eASA or ABS+) Pressure adv 0.031, Flow 0.96, Print temp 255C both first and other layers, bed 70C for all , Max Volumetric 12mm3/S
PLA - using the auto flow calibration with generic PLA with relatively good results but not excellent and not as good as ASA, ABS or PETG , I usually use prusa i3mk3s+ for PLA . One of these days will go through the calibration procedure. Recommend to read the Orca Slicer calibration
For Bambu Filaments i used auto flow calibration with acceptable results apart from PLA , but will do a calibration once i order more as i have quite a bit eSun rolls and extremely happy with ABS+ and eASA both price and quality.
With the above i tested old roll of PETG stored at 65% not sealed bag ,and just left it for a few days(8-9) in a box with silica and then in the AMS for 24h+. Still could see minor artifacts from moisture but the result was pretty good and nothing which affected the print
Note that Bambu is fork from Marlin and latest firmware from Marlin for my Prusa with Revo™ Six 0.6mm nozzle practically cant print with similar issues, not sure the reason also revered to older firmware for now.
My suggestion is to use Orca Slicer calibration very easy to use , Flow , K factor( Linear pressure advance) are the main ones and temperature calibration but not as critical. Max volumetric also recommend if you need to increase the Max volumetric speed from the default 12mm3/s increases the print speed .
Auto flow calibration - is Actually K factor calibration( Linear pressure advance) in Bambu . The Flow calibration is must between 0.95 and 0.99 some times can be up to 1.01
DO NOT USE Auto flow calibration from bambu studio with textured plate especially with PLA But it works some times. I am using only with Manual K factor (turn off autoflow )
Note1 confusion FLOW calibration is not the same as bambu auto flow calibration , this is Flow ratio in the filament settings
Note2 confusion K Factor ( linear advance pressure) calibration replaces the Autoflow calibration
Note3. preheat the bed while preparing the print so sometimes is more than 30 minutes. The box and parts are good to be warm. And try to keep the room temperature above 20C , i have seen issues bellow 17C not sure what temp as in the morning was 14C . Also keep the humidity in the room at around 50%-55%, constantly have a dehumidifier in auto mode set to 50%
Note4: Flow and K factor are material, manufacture and nozzle dependent . I noticed a tiny change with redoing the flow and K factor after nozzle temperature calibration but the difference is so small that was not worth the extra time , but made some minor improvement especially close to the high speeds
Note 5 after doing Max Volumetric calibration , practically the fast print 160% mode becomes unusable , the 128% fast mode is also not great, as the 100% will give you max speed with best quality
I have seen this said a few times around the net, but nothing documented. My understanding was that Bambu wrote their own firmware…
Not a hundred percent sure if really forked or rewritten or heavily modified, commented from what i read. But knowing how most companies work in the hardware business would not be surprised if it is. Time to market was too short to be re-written from scratch with all the gcode compatible to marlin, I am sure they use 3d party libraries some may be opensource, which does not necessary mean that they have to open it . No matter which way they have done it . It is exceptionally good job overall. Apart from the initial firmware which came the Bambu practically did not operate until i updated later version ( also common in the business ) . And now the new version has issues. Still Bambu for the price is the best 3d printer on the market. I do not want to debug firmware just to be able to print , as i have done with some other products
The major difference between Bambu PETG and generic PETG is cooling. So it all depends on what kind of chamber temps you have. If you print with 40-45 C chamber temps, then Bambu PETG profile should work fine. If you have higher chamber temps, then I guess Generic PETG will be better as it has more aggressive cooling.
