I believe yours is a third harmonic or it will be way over belt spec tension, which is not possible with properly working auto tensioning mechanism.
223/3*2=148.6Hz for the second harmonic.
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Just because i could!
My frequency was 140.16Hz. I used app Phyphox for Android.
Also i have not reset the tension in three weeks. My printer is a X1CC delivered 10-2022.
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I haved cleaned my maschine and saw many play in the Toolhead. I think 0,05mm-0,1mm. It is the camp not the plastic from toolhead
I opened a ticket.
Is it comming from the carbon rod bearings ?
Look at this post I think you are describing the same thing. There’s a solution posted.
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No need, but I didn’t understand what you were saying here. Did you look at that other discussion that I linked (in Blue)?
Sure, sry for my english.
In the other thread they stick a peace of a stripe between the plastic (toolhead) and the graphit bearing, but its useless when the bearing (i think camp is the name) has the play,the bearing self, not the toolhead.
Its bot a solution for me.
In my picture see a little bit the play between the carbon rod and the bearing.
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No problem, I’ve been on worldwide forums for many years. I just didn’t understand. It’s better then the things I’ve seen where fights occurred from translation problems! 
I see what you say now. The problem you have isn’t something someone here can help you with, this is something for Bambu Labs Support.
When you contact them, be sure to be patient. They are expanding their support system and are very overwhelmed (overloaded) right now while they get new systems in place.
Best of Luck! 
Yeah i know.
I would share my experience and possible defect for the print quality.
No one have the right solutions for ringing or wrong layer consistency/
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Well, my new Friend - You might post this question as a new post of your own. This Topic is marked as solved and we’ve stolen it talking about your problem!
You’ll get a lot more people seeing it, perhaps someone will have an answer for you.
Cheers
Not a confirmed solution and tape is a patch at best.
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Hi, which material is biofusion? PLA or something else? Which profiel do you select in Bambo Studio? Generic PLA?
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them layers are bad really for a £700 hundred pounds machine …its just like the matrix …maybe we should of taken the red pill and gone to prusa or voron lol
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It’s PLA and I use my own profile in bambu studio
Awesome, please can you provide me the profile? Which Plate + Noozle + Layer Height do you use? I use 0.4 noozle with textured PEI and 0.20mm standard layer height.
Solved? I didn’t see any solutions…
Not me saying it, the system is saying it.
Reply to this post. When you open the reply window to the right you’ll see the preview window, but it’s overlaid with a message that “This topic has been solved”.
The OP must have marked one reply as the solution. 
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The best way to tune your profile is to use OrcaSlicer. It has many more calibrations than Bambu Studio currently has. It’s the same software, but has advanced settings and calibrations. I posted a PSA about the differences here:
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/psa-up-your-game-studio-softfever-orcaslicer-arachne
You can have both Bambu Studio and it on you system side by side, they don’t interfere with each other.
Some people use it to tune their machine and copy the settings over to Studio, but I find it silly since they are the same software. If you don’t want to use the advanced settings you just leave them alone and just use the calibrations to tune. The Author, SoftFever, keeps it current with BL Studio.
Copying profiles from machine to machine gives you ‘pretty close’ settings, not the same settings as each machine has small variations. These are precision machines. You still need to tune for your filament and your machine for best results.
For instance, PLA from one brand may print entirely differently than another PLA. Each is a unique blend. Even within a brand you can get variations within different reels! That’s why it’s better to stick with major brands as the $4 savings isn’t worth the trouble. The better ones are more consistent. 
The much better way is to tune your machine yourself, this also teaches you more about the process and settings so when you get a tough to print model you recognize what can be done. 3D printing is a hobby (or business!) of constant learning!