We can’t run a taller set of idlers but I wonder if a narrower belt could help 
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Just watching this video and wonder if the extruder gears in the Bambu play a part? Slower speeds mean slower extrusion, printing faster may help as the filament flow is under more pressure than at slower speeds?
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The root-cause is not the time-belt but something different. It is also not caused by the extruder gear.
I spend a lot of hours of testing and researching and am now 100% sure where the root-cause is and how it could be solved by Bambulab.
You can use a speed-tower to test the size of the pattern based on speed. It does not matter which one, but most important is to have speeds below 120 mms included, so you can notice the pattern differs per speed.
You can e.g. select the 40-220mms speedtower that I have created on printables, model 415784
I am communicating with Bambulab support, but unfortunately I’m dealing with Rick. Rick is very capable on communicative and manipulative area for pushing problems away from his person and letting other people do his job. But not the right person if Bambulab wants to improve with a real solution. Unfortunately Bambulab support (in the person of support-employee Rick) only wants to camouflage by providing different settings or other advise not being a true understanding and solution to the root cause.
At this point I’m curious if Bambulab as a company wants to be solving the issue or keep avoiding and waving it away.
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Share with the rest of us, what you believe to be the problem, and the solution. I am curious to know what it is.
The community may be able to help getting this through to “Not Rick” at BL Mothership.
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I understand your curiosity and your need for the solution. However, sharing it here will not solve it. It can only be solved by Bambulab.
Furthermore, it is not related to open-source but to the commercial part of Bambulab aimed at making profit.
Would you spend a lot of hours working in favour of a company aimed to make profit without receiving a fitting compensation?
Below 120mm/sec you are seeing stepper cogging(mrr). Above 120mm/sec you see belt pattern rippling till around 180/200mm/sec.
The stepper cogging (mrr) is not constant with speed hence the spacing being wider/narrower as you move up / down in the speed range.
The belt pattern rippling is constant and independent of speed. It just fades away as the speed get’s higher.
For 1 you can’t solve unless you implement better micro stepping or tuning of the drivers to the stepper motors. Or use 0.9 degree steppers that will increase the frequency of the resonance making it less visible. Also slowing down to 20mm/sec makes things a lot smoother.
For 2 not sure what the answer is. Maybe it’s the belts rubbing against the flanges or belt resonance that can be tuned with increased or reduced belt tension.
References:
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Well if you are looking to turn a profit on what you think is the solution, best of luck.
Even if you are right, and this is the key to the ringing, I would be very surprised indeed if you got anything from it, especially if you are holding it ransom.
Were I the company, who by and large has a massive success going, and some owner of my product knocks on my door and says;
“Hey, I found the issue that pisses off 1% of your users/potential repeat customers, but I want a cut before I tell you”
I’d tell you to have a nice day, and thank you for buying my printer.
This is not a make or break issue for Bambu Lab…at all.
This is an issue for probably less than 1% of the users, and it’s cosmetic only, and only on certain types of prints. Less impact than the warped bed, which they admit to and are working on it.
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For around $1,500 for a “premium” printer with the AMS it is beyond frustrating. I’m wasting a bunch of filament just to get “less ringing”. A solution would be nice.
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I agree, a solution would be nice.
Remember, this was marketed as a FAST quality printer. Stupid fast. Most owners are printing small stuff and don’t know it’s there. I did not find mine until I printed a cup holder adapter for my car, and even then you have to catch it in the light just right. Does not affect performance.
Those that are using it for cosplay, I suspect that it can be washed off in the vapor bath. Nobody has said either way.
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Frankly, yes, and I think I did it many many times 
just think of all PrusaSlicer contributors…
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I am experiencing similar issues. Pretty large artifacts on x in z direction (amplified on larger prints with big planes) and similiar though smaller artifacts on y in z direction. I am a design student in Germany and participant in FSAE. Therefore I wanted a printer which is fast, works and is precise. Latter the Bambu can’t fulfill rn.
I already Submitted a Support Ticket 7 Days ago, but no reply yet.
If they don’t publish a fix soon, I probably have to file a warranty claim next.
does anyone know how to upload pictures into the thread?
If I try to upload some it says I cannot embed media elemets into the thread.
Click on the picture icon on the top row of the reply window. 7th icon from the left
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I’ve been slowly cleaning up artifacts through slicer settings and mechanical adjustments
Although I haven’t cleaned everything up perfectly through many suggestions and attempts from other users here’s what has improved my quality
#1 the bed screws and belt tension
Try adjusting the belts by first loosening them completely then readjusting them
The bed screws are very tight but try and get them tighter
Keep those linear rods clean along with the lead screws which need to be lubricated after cleaning
#2 regarding the slicer settings
Try 3 walls instead of 2
Reduce the infill/wall overlap into the negative percentage from the default of +15%
Slow down the outer wall speed
If you don’t have steep overhangs print the outer wall first
Use infill combination
Download Orca Slicer and dial in your flow rate and pressure advance
One of the biggest causes of the artifacts I’ve cleaned up is the walls being too close to the infill along with the nozzle dragging excess filament into the outer wall surface
I’m working on cleaning up the ringing artifacts which I find are most prominent when my layer hight is .012 to .008mm using a .4mm nozzle
When dialing in flow rate and pressure advance it is also notable that your values will be different for vastly different layer hights, no single set of values works for every layer hight you try which is why when using the variable layer hight feature this can get a bit tricky if you go from .02mm to .08mm for overhangs or steps on the model
These are just a couple of my adjustments but they are the ones that have had the greatest impact on wall surface quality
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Zgadzam się z kolegom ale nie wiem jak wielkość siatki zmiemisz zawsze w okręgu będą linie bo w programie cyfrowym nie ma nic takiego jak okrąg tylko zawsze okrąg będzie się składał z małych kresek czym większa rozdzielczość tym kreseczki będą mniejsze ale będą
I agree with my colleagues, but I do not know how you will change the size of the grid there will always be lines in the circle because in a digital program there is no such thing as a circle, but always a circle will consist of small lines the higher the resolution the smaller the lines will be, but they will be there
FTFY
Right click on the model
In the dropdown click simplify model
From there you can add more triangles
If that’s what you’re looking for
I do it often on prints that I’m running lower layer hights (.016 - .08mm) and want smoother rounded surfaces
Takes longer to slice and print though
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Dumb question but when you are referring to bed screws which are you referring to? Are they on the underside of the bed?
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That’s not a dumb question at all
Yes under the bed are 3 small bed screws
1 in the back and 2 in the front
And they are not easy to turn even if they are loose, I do them by hand but there is a tool you can download off Printables that I’ve seen
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