Click on the picture icon on the top row of the reply window. 7th icon from the left
3 Likes
Iâve been slowly cleaning up artifacts through slicer settings and mechanical adjustments
Although I havenât cleaned everything up perfectly through many suggestions and attempts from other users hereâs what has improved my quality
#1 the bed screws and belt tension
Try adjusting the belts by first loosening them completely then readjusting them
The bed screws are very tight but try and get them tighter
Keep those linear rods clean along with the lead screws which need to be lubricated after cleaning
#2 regarding the slicer settings
Try 3 walls instead of 2
Reduce the infill/wall overlap into the negative percentage from the default of +15%
Slow down the outer wall speed
If you donât have steep overhangs print the outer wall first
Use infill combination
Download Orca Slicer and dial in your flow rate and pressure advance
One of the biggest causes of the artifacts Iâve cleaned up is the walls being too close to the infill along with the nozzle dragging excess filament into the outer wall surface
Iâm working on cleaning up the ringing artifacts which I find are most prominent when my layer hight is .012 to .008mm using a .4mm nozzle
When dialing in flow rate and pressure advance it is also notable that your values will be different for vastly different layer hights, no single set of values works for every layer hight you try which is why when using the variable layer hight feature this can get a bit tricky if you go from .02mm to .08mm for overhangs or steps on the model
These are just a couple of my adjustments but they are the ones that have had the greatest impact on wall surface quality
7 Likes
Zgadzam siÄ z kolegom ale nie wiem jak wielkoĹÄ siatki zmiemisz zawsze w okrÄgu bÄdÄ linie bo w programie cyfrowym nie ma nic takiego jak okrÄ g tylko zawsze okrÄ g bÄdzie siÄ skĹadaĹ z maĹych kresek czym wiÄksza rozdzielczoĹÄ tym kreseczki bÄdÄ mniejsze ale bÄdÄ
I agree with my colleagues, but I do not know how you will change the size of the grid there will always be lines in the circle because in a digital program there is no such thing as a circle, but always a circle will consist of small lines the higher the resolution the smaller the lines will be, but they will be there
FTFY
Right click on the model
In the dropdown click simplify model
From there you can add more triangles
If thatâs what youâre looking for 
I do it often on prints that Iâm running lower layer hights (.016 - .08mm) and want smoother rounded surfaces
Takes longer to slice and print though
2 Likes
Dumb question but when you are referring to bed screws which are you referring to? Are they on the underside of the bed?
2 Likes
Thatâs not a dumb question at all
Yes under the bed are 3 small bed screws
1 in the back and 2 in the front
And they are not easy to turn even if they are loose, I do them by hand but there is a tool you can download off Printables that Iâve seen
2 Likes
Many thanks to you and DzzD 
Owner of an X1C and P1P here. Both have VFAâs, but the P1P is noticeably better with them. The X1C has started to somehow get worse, and itâs driving me nuts!
For a while, I was running outer walls as low as 50mm/s, and running the inners at 200mm/s. Although it had the VFA pattern at 50, it was much closer together, and looked more like ripples compared to spaced lines. For whatever reason this week, the X1C decided it didnât like that anymore and started producing terrible artifacts when turning a corner. At first I thought it was just ringing so I kept lowering the outer wall accel⌠but it persisted.
Cleaned the rods, did belt tension, ran self test⌠the usual routine, and still no dice. I love how performant Bambuâs machines are, but these VFAâs are driving me nuts. The parts I print on mine are included in products I sell. Iâm obsessed with quality, and even though 99% of customers likely will never know itâs an issue, itâs always my own standards that get in the way in the end.
The higher speed Bambu tells users to do as a fix is a band-aid. The higher speed I go on outer walls, the more smoothing I see from their input shaper. It actively makes parts worse. I pray they take the issue seriously from a mechanical standpoint, or that the community eventually finds some sort of magical fix.
I printed the blocks and I am not getting the ringing, either this problem has been fixed by now or I was wondering what type of table do you have your printer on? The table my printer is on is a very solid table that doesnât move, I was just wondering if the table moves would it cause the printer to do the ringing?
There are so many variables to this. Quite a few of the original users trying to figure this out have their printers on pretty solid surfaces (paving stones, overbuilt shelving), and were still getting the VFA. That is a whole 'nother rabbit hole to run down, and has been by YouTube people that have done this up to and including suspending the printer in the air upside down, and not been able to establish any particular key to cure.
1 Like
So the problem with that FB post is that the poster didnât actually run a full VFA test. The nature of the resonances in the system is that itâs very possible for tightening/loosening the belts to mess with the resonances just right that if you print at a particular speed (by messing with belt tension) itâll get better. I made that mistake when I realized that belt tension really just improved surface finish at one speed and worsened another while trying to follow the posterâs guidance. If you would like to do that for just a single print speed on your machine, it is certainly a strategy, but keep in mind that if you change material, or end up printing an object with some very short layer times in some areas, you might just see bad VFAs randomly pop up again in your print.
To give you an idea, on other high speed printers people have actually suggested the possibility of designing slicer modifications which deliberately fix or avoid particular print velocities to avoid any particularly bad resonances, so this is kind of an understood reality of these frames.
With that said it is possible that certain machine defects can cause much more severe banding than most printers. I see slightly different banding magnitudes on different printers at different speeds, but none really make it go away in the ~100mm/s-ish band where itâs quite bad.
Anyway, without a VFA I wouldnât trust that anyoneâs genuinely magically fixed the problem. They may have just moved the ringing from one belt speed on one axis to another belt speed on another axis.
Iâll just mention the horrible fix I had in mind but certainly wouldnât encourage - to first order, the natural frequency of the a mechanical system is proportional to the square root of the spring constant over massâŚthe spring constant is complicated, but I mean, if you were to increase mass of the moving object, you could ostensibly reduce the resonance frequency, possibly below the print speeds that you wantâŚYou just better turn down all your speeds and accelerations or risk damage to your system.
3 Likes
@OldSpice - Thank you for following up with that!
2 Likes
I just want to mention for other noobs like me, that âprinting fasterâ is easily achieved by increasing the âMax volumetric speedâ in a filamentâs setting.
Took me a while to figure out, why when using PETG those artifacts where much more visible than with PLA. Turns out that the default values for the volumetric speed for generic filaments are quite conservative and for PETG it was only 10mmÂł/s vs. 12mmÂł/s for PLA. I changed both values to 18mmÂł/s and now the artifacts are barely visible even with PETG.
Same filament, left 10mmÂł/s, right 18mmÂł/s
1 Like
For the past 4 months, and about 300hrs ish print time, iâve been getting good quality results by cleaning the x rods with 70% ipa everyday, this has worked for me and resolved the problem, although not permanent as i have to keep cleaning the rods.
Small update:
As its been few months since I communicated this with Bambulab, but still not solved, I have uploaded a test file with description and explanation on printables /model/519637
To be clear: I have provided all details, including demonstration files already few months ago to Bambulab (without receiving any kind of appreciation). How I understand there should come an firmware update that makes the speed- depended pattern less visible. Below a short description:
The vertical pattern originates from the both the XY- motors, is transferred through the belt to the printhead. The pattern(s) are based on a fixed frequency (per amount of time, not per degree of rotation) and sometimes is less visible, e.g.
- in case of speed above 180mms
- When printing along the Y-axis, due accidental being cancelled out. (both motors cancelling-out each otherâs vibration, think of noise cancelling technology from e.g. headphones).
I have made suggestion to Bambulab how to solve the issue, but Iâm unaware of the road they have chosen.
Lets just hope Bambulab has chosen a solid solution that will arrive shortly.
Best of luck to you all!
3 Likes
This sounds nice but this goes only for VFA. The difference is the distance between the waves. VFA are most likely very fine like snow in a dead tv channel. The other types of ringing are induced by the belt path. It would be better to allow us to tune the compensation by our selves and also give us tools to check easy if the path is racked due the gantry or otherwise the belts themselves.
My printer has now started ringing!