I tried this one - I ran the same test model with a single wall at 0.3, 0.4, and 0.6. The spacing remained identical. On the 0.3mm it was less visible but I think it was mostly due to the surface texture from rapidly cooling.
Also just in case, I did a teardown, cleaned all gears and wheels, lightly lubed the gears, and reassembled for no change in print defects.
Can you check your belt tracking for me, particularly where it sits on all the final turning pulleys and the front pulleys? I have been trying forcing belt to track centered with teflon tape and seen some improvement, but my left side is refusing so far to do anything but ride the bottom of flanges. The right side is perfectly straight now.
Well, something I tried long ago made a big improvement on my printer. By no means did it resolve the problem fully, but a big step in a positive direction was produced by significantly reducing tension on the belts. I pulled them as equally as I could while tightening the adjusters and now they vibrate like a rubber band rather than guitar string when plucked. I have printed a small, detailed, identical model with the same roll of filament on my low-tension X1 and a standard-tension X1 and I can see no degradation in detail resolution or ringing.
Post-slackening Iāve tried adding teflon tape to various pulleys.
Once I conclude this round of testing on my printer with the worse VFA, I am going to try to standardize the slackening of the belts and apply it to my girlfriendās printer and assess for improvement.
I tried many things, except the toothed idlers.
I donāt think there is a solution and Bambu cannot solve it at their end. This is just a failure of this printer.
I gave up and decided to print PETG and ASA on my Voron.
I could have better bought the P1P i guess.
It could have been a very nice printer.
Printing PLA at high speed seems all fine though. Thatās what most people do anyways.
Based on my tests, the belt tension doesnāt solve the vfa issue by itself, itās just an element of the equation.
Depending the tension it will reduce the vfa at a certain speed, not all.
As some printers suffer less than others of this issue, means itās āfixableā up to some points.
My printer was awful before the mods I made, so I feel lucky having been able to get rid of them at 95%.
thats because the bike is clearcoted and the rods are not
I just saw your design for steel rods on makerworld. There was one person who actually did it and made it work, with calibration errors, but that went away when manually tightening the belts.
I tempted to do this mod, any idea what size rods i need?
I fixed the issue partially on my x1Cās. Follow their belt tension guide itās really simple. Literally loosen the screws to tensioner move the head around and screw them back in
cause by high tension
So I was getting some annoying x Axis banding on my 5 week old X1c Machine, The Y axis was clean. So I went looking for some answers and found this thread. I decided to install orca before I wanted to go and clean the rods. X came out perfect in Orcaā¦
And now I see that Bambu is going to be disabling ORCA. ??
WTF
You have clearly printed with different parameters. Most likely speed.
Orcaās X move is the same as Bambu Studioās, is the same as any slicer.
This is a relatively new install of bambu studio (couple of days) and a first print install of Orca. Both were used on normal speed. Going over the settings briefly they appear the same. Perhaps there is something that I missed.
Where can I reset all my settings to default in bambu? just in case I changed something without a total uninstall. Will deleting my printer do that?
There is no ānormal speedā.
Actual print speed is affected by a number of settings:
Do your test again and select the exact same filament and print profiles.
Not sure Iād call your Orca X axis perfect, you still have ringing on the left, but at least the VFAās are better. Now youāre in Orca, run a VFA tower from the calibration menu and youāll see which speeds to avoid.
These belt artifact really are the worst thing about this printer. Iām surprised itās not mentioned more often in reviews.
Looking at some of the recent corexy releases, I see they use larger idler pulleys, which adds weight to my suspicion that itās the small diameter of the idler thatās causing the resonance. Iām going to look at a mod to fit a larger idler, but I suspect thereās limited room.
Although not necessarily related to the 2mm VFA, itās interesting to see the Bambu belt moving in slow motion at 17m14s compared to other machines in the YT video āThe unseen world of 3d printing at 1000fps!ā by Lost In Tech at 17m14s.
I want to do the mod, but do I need to buy gaskets too?, o r I can use the original ones that came with the printer?
To be honest there is no proof that the mod is solving or improving the issue.
If you want to do the mod I strongly advise to order gaskets as they are very fragile.
But you post very good results doing it on your printer. you dont recomend it?, I really heate dos VFA on a 800ā¬ printer, very dissapointed, but if there is any solutionā¦
Yes, Iāve done the mod (and a few others) and no more vfa on my printer, but others did the mod and no improvment.
Perhaps I was just lucky.
If you feel comfortable with the mod you can try it, up to you.
I advise to do that on a new axis if you can afford it.
Hi Alkerion. Do you have any thoughts on why the mod works for some but not others? Are the parts used identical? Cheers!
No, I canāt pretend to know why our printers suffered of vfa and some other much less.
