I only print in PC but found at 220 speed I eliminated my vertical lines all together. And PC is is pretty shiney but kicking the fans to 100% eliminates the shine also so I was able to score two wins just by this issue. Because I prefer a matte finish on my black parts
Bei mir tritt weniger VFA auf, wenn ich die Umlenkrollen alle öle.
Das hat mich dazu gebracht, mir die Wiki mal genauer anzusehen bzw. die Einzelteile.
Mir ist aufgefallen, das man scheinbar keine Distanzringe im klassischen Sinne aus Messing benutzt, sondern gröĂere, brĂŒnierte Stahlscheiben, welche zudem so groĂ sind, dass sie bei Teile des Lagers berĂŒhren.
Meine Theorie dazu ist, das die BrĂŒnierung anfangs als Schmierung dient, sobald sie aber abgeschliffen ist, erhöht sich deutlich die Reibung und das fĂŒhrt zu Widerstand in den Rollen, welcher sich dann sichtbar in den VFA ausprĂ€gt.
Ich werde meine Spannrollen bei der nÀchsten Wartung mal demontieren und hier passende Distanzringe verwenden.
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My toothed pulley from the B motor (left side) got loose and made the belt rub on the motor shaft. I have no idea how this happened but i suspect that some of the idler bearings lost their alignment. I also saw that the ones from the tension screws have a groove in them.
Because of this i dissassembled everything so i can replace all the idlers.
In a picture i saw on the bambulab wiki the X axis had a toothed idler on the bottom left and top right, similar to what someone above said. I managed to drill holes in the x axis assembly to remove the original pulleys but iâm still waiting for replacements to arrive.
I will also replace the XY motor pulleys as the original ones seem like they are made of plastic.
As i have completely dissasembled the printer do you guys recommend replacing or upgrading anything else?
Thanks!
From the reading Iâve been doing on this, itâs really important to match all the tooth profiles so they engage and disengage cleanly. So if you are changing every pulley, also change the belt so the tooth profile matches perfectly. If you can use all genuine Gates GT2 products, this would potentially help.
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Iâve ordered the Gates belt but canât find stores with pulleys that ship to where i live. Hopefully the aliexpress ones are good.
I canât upload links or images so maybe this will work. Remove the space between https and the rest.
https ://i.ibb.co/HT4JKcgj/PXL-20250206-151345199.jpg
https ://i.ibb.co/VczpdWdJ/PXL-20250206-151256635.jpg
https ://i.ibb.co/spCrpPgm/PXL-20250206-151132650.jpg
try this! I did a myriad of tests and I solved it perfectly itâs my project let me know
Letâs see a before and after VFA test tower.
You solved nothing, the impact of belt tension on VFA is well know.
Varying belt tension only move the VFA to a different print speed, that doesnât remove them totally.
AFAIK we still havenât identified all the root causes of these VFA on our Bambu.
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I totally agree with you, this is just a way to tone down the ringing a bit, I wonât hide from you though that Iâm getting great results without dismantling pulleys and various things⊠in fact it can be considered as a user-friendly guide for users who donât know how to fiddle with the machine. especially if you always use bamboo profiles thatâs all. I had a really aggressive ringing and the prints were awful⊠the important thing for me is to move the vfa from the most used speeds
I would recommend Bambu to opt for the same solution as the qidi x plus 4 with 1.5 teeth x 9 mm thickness belts
true, as I have time, I will print a vfa test and post it here with stock bamboo accelerations. before there was no need, because all the prints were horrible
same material same profile:
Not exactly the same angle, so difficult to compare on a picture.
In the title of your topic you wrote âsolvedâ, âreducedâ will be a better word IMHO.
Changing the pulley was complicated and didnât solved the issue for some people, so itâs not the root cause.
I feel luck to now having anymore any awful VFA since my mods (they are still barely visible on some prints with some filaments).
Modded :
- Pulley
- Belts Gates 2GT
- Motors dampers
- Brand new carbon rods axis
- I bought a belt tensioner measurement tool (cheap but ok) and applied the exact same tension to both belts.
9mm belts have been compared to 6mm they doesnât bring any added values.
The size of the pulley seems to play a role, as well as the squareness of the printer.
0.9 motors compared to 1.8 too, can have an impact (experienced that with an old self made printer).
Bambu (like other brands) cannot produce printers for mass with military grade precision, reason why I think we have differences between our printers.
Some are lucky others⊠less lucky.
Things will probably improve with next generations of products.
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it would be nice to mount 1.8 engines like prusa and do a test, I also intended to make structural changes to the p1s but I really lost the desire just thinking about removing the belt
I hope it never breaks XD
This is an interesting read about timing belt vibration.
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Well the VFA was bugging me so much I ended up selling my P1S while it was still worth decent money. The H2D looks to have vastly improved on this problem from what Iâve seen so far. So if the motion system in a future P2s has this solved Iâll come back to what is otherwise a great printer.
My P1S is driving me NUTS. I canât unsee all the VFA from 60mm/s to 200mm/s really. VERY bad from 60 to 140. Still there, but less obvious, from 140 to 200.
I do hear H2D might be better, but still wanting to ask someone here to run a test for me, just to see how much better it is. The belts and the stepper motors should help, but i believe Prusaâs Core One uses similar and i see tons of reports of VFA as well?
@Alkerion if i remember correctly, you replaced some idler pulleys with toothed, right? But that was quite a job, right? Can you link me to the motor dampers and the belt tensioner tool that you bought?
Whoâs going to be first to swap H2D steppers and belts into an X1C?
I wouldnât be surprised if the extra mass of the new toolhead is a big factor.
