I’d be glad to do that, since I have the the same banding problem
The only problem I see on my X1C - pulley axles on Y carriages seem to be pressfit into plastic, so there is no easy way of getting them out to swap the pulleys
Setting of infill change other type of artifact but not the artifact show on all picture of this topic. For me It’s the belt and pulley and possibly the carbon rods whose create that.
with Softfever fork of Bambu studio you can do settings more precisely:
Modification post :
I have tooth idlers, I ll measure them and if it’s ok I try to replace the smooth idlers. I come back in 4 hours after the end of my print and my manipulation to report my experience with you 
My tooth idlers measure:
inner-diameter :5.4
outer-diam:11.9
border : 17.85
I’d know if it is good only after disassemble the Bambu’s smooth idlers. Actually I’m printing, but after it’ll be mechanic time ^^
Modification post number 2 :
I’m trying to understand how to disassemble the idlers without broke something 
If you have ideas : I take 
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I don’t know if it was a fluke but I was able to get much better results on a flimsy Ikea table vs my super solid bolted to the foundation bench. Anyone experienced that ? (Yes I reran calibration before moving the printer location)
Top: Ikea table
Bottom: Super stiff bench
Could it be that most people experiencing the issue have tables with no damping ? Do you guys mind sharing your setups ?
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It looks like you changed the model as well. Are you also seeing improved results when printing the model on the bottom in your photo above?
I remembered that my Prusa had also produced similar artifacts. However, since I also had it standing on such wobbly, spring-loaded feet, the prints also looked smoother. The spring-loaded feet were originally intended to reduce noise.
My X1C was on an IKEA MALM and also has artifacts that I still find acceptable. But I will also test it on a small IKEA LACK table or an IKEA children’s desk.
Sorry, I indeed shrank the model as I was trying to minimize the amount of filament I’m wasting. I will try the exact same gcode at some point to really isolate every parameter.
The table I was trying on is really wobbly (long dining table) so it really damps movement a lot.
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Guys, this is not a bed-slinger printer with 500mm/s2 acceleration we are talking here from 5k to 20k mm/s2 accelerations!
High accelerated printers should stay as rigid as possible with no wobble.
Otherwise, the counter-mechanisms (Input Shaper) no longer work to prevent ringing.
The best-case scenario would be to have it fixed to a wall.
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Actually I just checked the gcode and the speed for the small one was smaller which is in line with the results shown by @rovster (the one with banding was 133 and the one without was 75)
Is the solution simply to slow down outer wall speed with PETG and accelerate it with PLA ?
Maybe, maybe not. But PETG doesn’t like to be printed very fast.
Again, this is not banding, this is VFA. Different Materials do not influence the motion system but can pronounce more or less strongly.
Get SoftFever 1.4.5 and run the VFA test; it will show you the speed best for your printer setup.
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That’s why I suggested slowing down the outside wall when printing with PETG. On my problematic models I’m bottlenecked by the flow (default 10mm3/s) which translates to the worst case scenario for VFAs
My outer wall speeds are very slow
120 for PETG
135 for PLA
Thats when I want good quality
Even though they are small prints, calibration cubes are fast and with a flashlight on an angle will show flaws that would be present on larger prints when speeds, accelerations, temp and flow are a factor
I’ve had great success adjusting my settings on the small 20×20 cubes and the artifacts that I’ve tuned out on those small cubes have been tuned out in the same manner for my larger prints
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That’s the opposite of true. The higher the acceleration, the higher the force. If that force isn’t allowed to out of the frame into a damper, then it will stay in the frame, causing it to deform and ring. Allowing the whole printer to move as a unit allows the frame to act stiffer than if you constrain it. The input shaper samples the resonance of the whole vibrating system, table and all.
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Do you own any other high-speed CoreXY printer, or do you speak just out of theory?
So it is not legit what the high-speed CoreXY printing community is doing with years of experience. You should go and tell them. 
(1) Wall anchors tests - YouTube
enjoy
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I didn’t know my purchase history was required to speak about physics. Feel free to correct me if I’m wrong.
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I don’t remember who dug into it but the idler pulley was a PITA to access for a swap.
I wonder if we could print a toothed collar to put on the idler?
I don’t know if we could get enough flex in any material to clip over the roller and not break. Might have to make a 2 piece that locks together. I can envision it, but beyond my CAD skill set. Especially when you are dealing with diameters and tooth count
I think there is a hub in the middle of idlers. I must to dug deeper, I was little bit discouraged when I saw the idlers’ fixation I’m going to research how to disassemble those
As I suggested earlier in the thread when I first considered the ribbed belt traveling over a smooth pulley causing artifacts another option is to try a non ribbed / smooth belt and changing out the drive pulleys for smooth ones
The caveat being smooth belts warm up faster and lose tension easier
It’s by no means the speed that would be the issue with non cogged belts but rather the possibility of slipping when doing very small movements with high accelerations, the tension of the belts would need to be substantially tighter to prevent that
I just keep telling myself nobody said printing quality parts at high speeds was going to be easy but these printers are a step in the right direction
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I have to imagine this is due to input shaping (resonance compensation).
Appreciate you sharing your results though, haven’t tried it myself yet. Love softfevers fork!
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Is there perhaps the possibility to change the two rollers over which the belt runs with the toothed side for toothed rollers?