Basic startup procedure - what is stored where for how long?

[Arhimed]

I’m not new to 3D printing but I’m very new to X1carbon+AMS and I’m having issues finding data so apologies if this is answered already I’ll appreciate the links to proper documents.

Starting print I see the printer is wiping, cleaning, bed leveling … this is all cool, but I see that there is a way to “unclick” bed leveling when sending the print from the slicer, if I uncheck the bed leveling what will happen? will the printer use last saved bed leveling or will it assume bed is flat? If it is using last stored bed leveling - where is this bed leveling data stored, can it be retrieved and for how long is this bed leveling data stored? I read some posts where some data is stored “until restart”, so will the “last saved bed leveling” survive powercycle of the printer?

This “until restart” things that are mentioned here and there, what is “restart” for this printer anyways? The power button on the printer only turns off the screen from what I see, it does not turn off the printer so what is considered “restart” ? power cycle or ?

Question about “flow calibration”, what does “flow calibration” entails? I see bunch of lines printed during startup, a big fat angle in the back right corner, a few boxes in front left and 5 lines up front … this is bit too many lines for simple flow calibration so I assume this is doing more then just configuring “Filament: Flow ratio” parameter. What does this “flow calibration” do exactly, where are the results stored and for how long?

I assume pressure advance (or whatever is the appropriate technology bambu firmware uses) is calibrated at some point too? Where is this data stored and for how long?

Same question about ringing, data about resonant frequencies is stored somewhere during some procedure (was that “device/calibration” ?), where is this data stored and for how long?

“print options / auto-recover from step loss” - how does this work? I have this turned on but I printed something rather big last night and few cm from the bed I have 1mm layer shift in Y, no “recovery”, the whole upper part of the print is shifted by that 1mm … it’s possible that it was not the head that skipped but that whole print plate slided but magnet is pretty strong does not look possible…

part is super simple: Onshape

filament is some 3DKORDO-EVERFILL-PLA-WHITEMARBLE attached directly from the spool to the printer as it won’t work through AMS (fails to retract, gets stuck in ptfe tubes, looks like outside is not smooth/slippery enough for AMS)

Apologies for noob questions, thanks in advance

[holmes4]

I can answer all but the one on step loss. Leveling and “flow” (pressure advance) info is stored as long as the printer is powered up.

Neither of the two buttons on front of the X1C power off the printer - only the toggle on the back does that. The left button controls the display only, turning it on and off. The right button, when pressed, brings up a prompt asking if you want to pause or stop the print.

When you do the initial printer calibration, it runs extensive resonance analysis and stores that across power shutdown. When you start a print, it does an abbreviated version of this and compares to the stored value, alerting you if there are significant differences.

[qapla]

Regarding 3DKordo Everfil filament..
I’ve ordered long time before, white PLA and had all kind of issues printing with it.
Then I mistakenly ordered another batch of different brands, including Everfil PLA white, black and violet. And boy, as I am writing this, I am trying to dial this filament..
It doesnt matter if i set print speed on silent or standard.
Getting all kind of issues.
Yesterday I tried 2 times printing box with hex cutouts using Evefil violet and nozzle was kicking print all the time in printing. First time I managed to print it only maybe 20%, second time maybe 60% and then I switched to different brand fillament and it was success without issues.
Today I am using Everfil black and first time i tried printing some parts - first time some of them didnt stick to bed. I restart print. Again same issue. Ok, I will add brim. Better but had layer separations on print start and had to cancel print again.
Then I tried tuning max flow rate, just to see how it will go. First layer good. Second layer fillament would not go out of nozzle so I increased temp to 240. Still no go. 250. Ok, it started going, so i reduced to 220C. Print was success and max flow rate is about 12, then i see some layer issues. So i set max flow rate to 10mm/s and now I will try to print temp tower again (240 to 190C).
I did tune flow rate and pressure advance (used auto and manual methods just to compare numbers).
Prints look nice when they manage to print but boy, I will never set foot on this filament again.
Maybe I am just a noob and cant tune filament however I am in printing since 2018 so I think I know a thing or two about tuning machine…
If someone has used this brand of filament, please, say your experiences and what settings you use, I can try that.

Edit:
Bambu lab basic filament that was shipped with printer - had exactly 0 issues with it. Perfect prints, every time.
Other brand of filament - also, very good results, however Bambu lab filament I highly recommend.

Edit 2023.11.15
I’ve done all this time trying to figure out why I cant get good prints with Evefil filament. Countless mails with dealer. He convinced me that its not filament issue. Ok, lets try everything again…

Long story short: Moisture in filament!!! Even if your filament in brand new, non-opened, you MAY have problems.
Other problem was bed adhesion. I dont like cool plate so i use pei textured plate. However to get good adhesion with this filament, first layer temp 240C and bed temp 65C (yes, 60 would not stick). Other layers on 220C (maybe I can turn that down to 210, but quality is great so maybe i stick with it)

I dried filament in oven at 50C for at least 7 hours (just to be sure). I used old kitchen cloth and wraped spool of fillament in it, just to be sure that no direct heat is on filamment. And let it cook.. after cooking, i let it cool down for few minutes, start to print and boy, awesome prints!
So, to be sure, always dry filament and try setting temperatures like I do, that should help.