Printer has been awesome for the first few months, then I went to print a ABS gridfinity base, and it was stuck so good I damaged it while scraping it off, and now all my prints are doing this.
I Tighten the Ceramic Base Screws and this didn’t help, so I adjusted my Z offset in the starting G-code +0.02, coming from Anycubic I was used to these issues daily, but this is the first time since switching to Bambu (1 year) I’ve had an issue.
Anyone else having bed adhesion issues with the H2D, mine only has ~416hrs of print time
I’m about to print a desktop filing cabinet for my invoices, and its a large print so curious if any one else has any solutions.
If your prints are sticking too aggressively to the build plate, you’ll need to either lower the bed and/or nozzle temperatures or apply a release agent such as glue.
Did you print on a freshly cleaned plate, or are you reusing the surface from a previous print? I’m asking because an overly clean PEI surface can actually grip too tightly—especially with materials like ABS or ASA. This is a well-known behavior with Textured PEI, and it’s why Bambu Lab specifically recommends using a release layer (like glue stick or Magigoo Original) when printing high-shrinkage materials on this surface.
For what it’s worth, I’ve personally never used the Textured PEI Plate on my H2D—it just doesn’t suit my workflow. I did use it briefly on my X1 Carbon while waiting for my CFX Plate, and while adhesion was strong, I didn’t run into the same excessive bonding issues you’re describing.
Also worth noting: cleaning the PEI surface with isopropanol or detergent can temporarily increase its grip. And while lowering the bed temperature can reduce adhesion, it comes with a higher risk of warping—especially for filaments like ABS that are sensitive to thermal contraction. The CFX Plate, which I eventually switched to, handles this far better with more consistent release behavior across multiple engineering materials.
If you prefer not to use glue, reducing the bed temperature might help—but you’ll have to balance that carefully to avoid warping or first-layer separation.
I am only a little over 100 hours into using mine, and I have only run ABS so far, but I haven’t had any issues at all. The prints do stick very tenaciously, but after cooling down pop loose so I can just pick them up. I have only washed my print plate once so far, and I used a lintless rag with 91% alcohol. I gave it a good scrubbing, and that was it. I haven’t used any glue or anything else.
Yeah mine was good for the first 300hrs, started giving issues after the 2nd to last firmware update but that might be a coincidence.
I will not be switching build plates or using glue, my P1S has the same build plate and has zero issues, as did my H2D for the first 300hrs
only running 70C for PETG and 90C for ABS, I needed to run hotter 80-90 on my anycubic’s
I am very new to 3d printing, but have you tried something more aggressive than alcohol, like acetone? Unless mechanical, I would be thinking that something had left a film on the plate. I guess you could try turning it over and see if that helps.
That reasoning is a bit like saying, “It worked on my old Volvo, so it should work on my brand new race car.”
I do understand the pride in avoiding glue—totally fair—but if you go that route, you’ll need to accept the reality of prints sticking too hard and solve the issue another way.
There are plenty of things that work great on my X1 Carbon but absolutely don’t on my H2D—and vice versa. They’re two very different machines, so applying the same logic across them doesn’t really hold.
Anyway, if you take a close look at the Textured PEI Plate from your P1S, you’ll likely notice the differences. I have two PEI plates myself—one from my X1 Carbon and one that came with my H2D—and I definitely wouldn’t call them identical.
Once you figure out what’s causing the issue, do share—would love to hear the outcome.
Hmm, my P1S and H2D PEI plates look identical, I know the older X1 carbons were different though… I wasn’t trying to compare them though this H2D didn’t have this issue for the first 300hrs. Changing my Z offset to zero from -0.02mm worked, this large print popped off easy. Its just annoying that I have to open my custom profile every time I open Bambu studio as it defaults to stock one when it syncs
I printed some ABS and used HIPS for support. That HIPS material left a film on the bed that has been coming off as a white film on the past 5 or 6 prints. You cannot see it on the bed plate, just on the ABS.
