I am to angry to provide much detail but suffice to say a 1000$ printer shouln’t have this problem. left rear corner is 100F, front right corner is 125F temp is set to 60C, whatever that conversion is. is this a defect?
I just measured my bed using imperial numbers. It ranged from 135 to 139 at nine points. With and without the build plate. I let it sit for 10 minutes to line out.
I used a Fluke Model 62+.
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then why does my bed adhesion fail 24 hrs into a 30hr print and only on the left back corner?
A print that mind you I’ve gotten to print perfectly the first time with zero problems and even had the aux fan on that time. this makes zero sense unless the heater wires are frayed somewhere and its losing connection in certain positions. but its a BRAND NEW x1 carbon.
Bed adhesion can be due to a number of things. Have to ask if you wash your plates with dish soap and thoroughly dry occasionally, handle them just at the edges with clean hands?
Have you tested the other side or another plate? Some posts here suggest some plates could have adhesion issues from the factory but I have nothing to support or dispute that.
Build plates are listed as consumables but some report very long life. I’m 7 months in and still using my first textured PEI plate. How old are yours and have they been heavily used?
Those temps are a fair range. I tend to keep the door closed during the first part of the print until the chamber hits 35C and a number of layers are down including the critical first layer, but open it after that on textured PEI. That should go a long way to minimizing cold spots. The build plate is metal but don’t know how thermally conductive it is but all else being equal will help minimize temperature extremes across it.
And it could be rumor and poor lore, but some have associated adhesion issues with wet filament. If you have humidity issues it could also be contributing.
Unfortunately not a lot to go on so that’s why the shotgun response. Maybe others will have some insight.
What would probably help is commenting on your plate habits, how much use, more on the details of how you print like door open/closed/when, how you store filament, if you dry it, etc. Hard to say in advance what is the root cause at least for me.
Good luck.
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105.7°F = 40.9°C, 129.8°F = 54.3°C
That is definetily an extremely wide range an far away from the set temp. It does not look normal to me.
I am afraid that since it is a brand new printer, I can only recommend heating the bed for 10 Min, recording a 5X5 or more temp grid by hand and then opening a ticket with Bambu.
You may also want to double check the X1C wiki ( X1 Series | Bambu Lab Wiki) regarding the heatbed.
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I use 99% IPA to clean my plates. I have two of them because I cant waste time waiting for the plate to cool and release when I get AATON camera accessory/part orders. so far the problem has occurred on both plates on two attempts at a dragon and failed in the same exact spot, the first one failed a few hours sooner in the print though. Its really frustrating because I am trying to make some of these for a charity event this sunday.
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I’m still sticking with recommending proper bed cleaning to resolve this issue.
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Unless it’s chemical/medical grade IPA it can even have oils in it. And thanks to evaporation, any amount of oil will just about all be left behind.
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Hey @Skaard, temperature measurements at that kind of low angle can have errors. If you can shoot the same near corner at a low angle and at a high angle almost normal to the surface, I’m curious if there is a difference. IR temperature measurements can also be affected by the surface itself.
There may not be a difference but it would be good to exclude measurement errors when looking at the numbers.
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Got to ask, though. Not everyone will be using lab grade. My wife uses IPA for her nails and other wifey things and it is loaded with junk. It’s even green. But not all will realize the issues. So good on ya!
I know what ur thinking, thermal reflection off the metal surface. I cant remember the brand because its been sooo long and the thing fell off but this is a 400$ temp gun once used in tandem with other tools for racing Ducati superbikes when you could still get sponsors and be paid to race in local championships. engine temps, tire temps. its designed to read reflective surfaces with less errors.
I don’t know the answer which is why I suggested measurements at high and low angles but emissivity (what IR thermometers measure) can vary with angle. My understanding is it usually is pretty uniform but these plates have that textured coating on them that could change the results. Price of the instrument really doesn’t matter because the physics of emissivity is what does.
What factors can cause the emissivity of a flat surface to vary with zenith angle? The emissivity of a flat surface can vary with zenith angle due to factors such as surface roughness, composition, and temperature.
Reference: Emissivity of a flat surface varies with zenith angle
This graph shows the possibility better…
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Ooof. That 98° reading is only 37°C…
But it is a good point by @MZip : Since Bambu will be asking anyway, I’d suggest to make the same measurements straight from the top and without the textured plate. Just the bed itself. With those pic’s you should be able to avoid the first Bambu support Q&A ping-pong. And it gives certainty on the root cause.
After all, some residue between the heat bed and the textured plate or an interference between the poop chute and the rear of the textured plate could cause similar issues. I think that is unlikely though, as even your highest readings are further from the target than what @Barryg41 measured.
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soooo i set it to 70c from 60c and also switched my gun to C once I remembered how to do that. cold spot is gone now and the whole plate is between 59C and 60C. WTF lmao.
It may of been that at one time but it looks pretty rough now. It’s missing buttons and a faceplate. I second taking temp readings at a 90 degree angle to the bed.
Better a storm in a teacup than a teacup in a storm
But it is still strange that it is 10° lower. Maybe try that directly from the top for that last temp gap (you also have the widening of the laser spot when measureing at an angle).
Getting the plate hotter will just potentially hide what is causing issues in the first place so not sure that’s a good solution. Hopefully so, though. 70C is pretty hot too. You might trade poor adhesion for a build plate with a dragon permanently attached.
I don’t know the answer though. These be all my suggestions.