I know very well how IPA works with sticky oils thanks in no small part to a vape pen addiction of mine. Just have to use alot. I find soap and water to be counter productive because the water of southern california is very hard and this results in mineral deposits left on anything cleaned with it especially deep in textured surfaces. My previous printer was a flashforge guider 2S and through it I had to tailor a workflow specific to my environment and resources. Again its very clear that the rear left corner of my bed has weak thermal conductivity probably due to delamination of something inside it. This results in that part of the plate cooling down too much when the tool head passes over it blowing cool air.
I have 5 gallons of this stuff sitting around at any given moment because I also use it for ABS resin, therefore I can use copious amounts of it, failing that I also have used acetone for the same purpose such as dissolving abs residue stuck in the texture. I also know what the bed is supposed to feel like, take a finger tip ad try to drag it on the surface a little, if its not slightly tacky/grabby with your finger tip then its not clean. I am sorry but people on the internet are not always going to have the information that works best for every situation.
So 70c is the new 60c I guess. It also didn’t get stuck and lifted right off as if picking it up off a table surface once it cooled. Next one is all silk pla so fingers crossed for adhesion and the durability of the plate coating seeing as some people have over adhesion problems with the silk.
Also must’ve been a slicer bug because its now starting at the temp I set the bed at and not defaulting to 55c. I swear there’s no good slicer out there that doesn’t have issues like that without EEC ram in your pc. From bad ports to mac os sonoma to cheap chinese rebrands of something free. I’ve tried all of them and honestly despite its issues the Bambu studio one is my favorite and ChituBox for my resin printer is the devils spawn of slicers.
Just coming into this topic so mind my response as I’ve only skimmed over the gist of comments.
How new is this X1C?
Newest X1C that was manurfactured (Sept/2023) I received in beginning of May (Also all fans state “SNOWFAN” on the rear side now)
These newer models manufactured after a certain point will have the v3 heat bed’s installed
~ This could definitely be a contained issue within the component itself and recommend letting bambu support aware of this (as you already have I’d assume)
I’m one of those who had silk PLA try to weld itself to textured PEI. It was a bear.
That’s a different dragon than I thought it was - very cool looking! Glad you’re making progress.
And about ECC RAM and RAM in general, as you allude in your post, most consumer systems don’t use ECC RAM since it’s more expensive and not considered “mission critical”. The rest of us in home PC markets are left to fend for ourselves. And since non ECC RAM doesn’t know if it’s bad, you can see all sorts of odd behaviors that may not be the fault of a program at all.
The best thing you can do on a home PC is to test and qualify your own memory. You don’t have to guess. Get Memtest86 (free), make a bootable USB drive, and test your system. It’ll run the common tests by default and let you know it it is seeing errors and if so, where. Some motherboards have Memtest86 built into their BIOS so you don’t even need to d/l or make a bootable USB.
If it runs clean you can have pretty good confidence your RAM is good and not throwing errors. Programs doing CTDs and exhibiting other odd behaviors can be a bad cell somewhere. And even the best brands can have bad cells. Buying name brand memory seems to get fewer bum sticks but you can still get them.
The guidance at the Memtest site is to overclock until it starts throwing errors then back off 3-6% to get back into the reliable zone. It’s just my opinion but if your system can do a few clean passes at whatever clock speed you’re running at, it’s going to at least give you good confidence in your RAM.
Memtest is my go-to tool when someone reports things that sound like they could be stability issues. And if it runs clean you can be pretty confident whatever issues are caused by something else.
Unfortunately regular RAM has no idea if a value read is correct. It takes programs like Memtest to know if RAM is good or not, capable of running at certain speeds or not.
I know memtest, my memory itself is fine memtest has always cleared. Problem is that my workstation never gets turned off so stray cosmic rays do be a swapping some ones and zeros around. i actually have to turn it off and back on about 1 or 2 times a month because of this radiation induced degradation.
Yep. I know exactly what you mean about cosmic ray events. And they certainly can cause bit flips, etc. And it’s worse at higher altitudes.
I’ve got a sim friend who is having fairly regular CTDs (like a few times a week) but refuses to try Memtest to make sure his memory is ok. I’ve unfortunately seen bad memory be the cause of such behavior. But it’s his system…
Interesting problems with the all silk dragon. some strange overhang performance and very melted top layers even using BL silk and its appropriate profile. The Silk pla also lifted away with a simple flex of the plate and did not leave residue on the plate.
At least acetone will break oil down, even though long term use is pretty bad for your skin. Sounds like you didn’t want advice, but validation instead.
thanks for offering nothing constructive besides insults. you must be so proud of yourself.
Listen, my single x1 carbon paid back its 1600$ value in two weeks making 8 TPU parts for AATON Penelope Camera Magazines and there’s only 42 of these 40,000$ cameras in the whole world and 20% of them are with collectors and museums that don’t use them.
I had a problem with a defect in my hotplate, not my plate cleaning habits, now mitigated by using a different temp setting while I wait for a new one.
Oh yeah and I am about to make TPU mag covers for them that take 4hrs to print and sell for 150$. I’ve already pre-sold 6 of them.
I am an experienced professional in a cornered market that USUALLY knows more than hobbyists on a forum about my craft. hence why I had the foresight to check plate temps with IR tools.
Just as I have the choice to buy peaches from the farmer on the side of the road or not. Its also my choice to accept or reject advice, not yours and you getting angry about my rejection of your advice tells a lot more about you and your character than mine. (I would buy the peaches though, because peaches are better than you)
I hope have a Wonderful day, and I wish you a very please stop talking to me
Sorry to hear about your frustration with the bed adhesion issues on your printer. It sounds really frustrating, especially for a high end model. Temperature discrepancies like that definitely sound like something to raise with the manufacturer or support team. Hopefully, they can help you sort it out quickly!
Well seeing as they still haven’t responded to my ticket which is under the the hot bed problems category there must a lot of people having problems with this particular component. Also here’s another set of pictures. Bed is set to 70c
At least they’re going to replace the cover fan that got damaged from it.
"Thank you for the information.
Yes, correct, even replacing the bed is no guarantee that area will be different in temp. A higher overall bed temp is the best course to mitigate colder edges or spots.
I have ordered a replacement fan cable and housing for you.
I’ll update the ticket here with tracking once it ships, normally 1-3 business days.
Please note that due to inactivity, the ticket might get automatically Resolved.
If that happens, and you need more help, feel free to reply to the ticket and it will be re-openened.
If I can help with anything else in the mean time please let me know!
