I have two X1C’s and they have been exclusively printing Fiberon PA6-GF almost flawlessly for 9 months. The bed adhesion is perfect with 40C bed, 32C chamber, and 300C nozzle on the stock textured PEI plate that has generic glue stick applied to it. These printers run 12hrs a day all week long with almost zero issues.
Moving on to my brand new H2S, the bed adhesion is poor at best and I have tried several settings to correct the poor bed adhesion. I am using the stock textured PEI plate that has generic glue stick applied to the entire plate. The H2S does not have any Fiberon PA6-GF settings to choose so I just copy/paste these settings from the X1C. Fiberon’s own site says these settings are within what they recommend. Again, these settings are 40C bed, 32C chamber, and 300C nozzle. One print turns out OK with these settings and the next print lifts off the plate half way through.
I then used the stock Bambu PA6-GF settings which are much more aggressive. 60C chamber, 100C bed, and 300C nozzle. I use the same glue stick applied to the textured PEI plate. Again, one print comes out OK, but the next lifts off the plate either on the initial layer or halfway through the print.
Can anyone recommend printing settings for PA6-GF or any other “tips/tricks” for the H2S. I have tried 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles and the 0.4 nozzles seems to have a little higher success rate, but still not acceptable…I am at my wits end with this as this machine needs to become the backbone of my print farm using PA6-GF exclusively.
I use the default Bambu settings with Bambu PA6-CF on the H2D and a Glacier plate. No problems yet but I always dry the filament overnight in my AMS-HT before printing. Also my nylon parts to date have been quite small, not sure if the defaults would work as well on larger parts.
@Eponymous I just can’t get over the huge difference in printing temps between the X1C and the H2S. My X1C’s print nylon flawlessly at 40C bed and it looks like the H2S is 100C, or higher…strange
Really sounds like a temperature difference or a damaged build plate.
Have you measured the temperature in the chamber and on the bed? Not just read it from the printer. PA6 likes to throw a temper tantrum if its conditions aren’t exactly right.
I am not exactly printing PA6 but I print PPA CF and PC and I am using the engineering plate in a H2D with the DimaFix Pen. So far everything sticks very good with that combo and releases nearly force less after cooling. But the bed temperature should be some kind of high for DimaFix (I have 100-110 degrees).
Only ASA did so far stick to good and ripped of the first layer even after cooling down.
I bought a Biqu Glacier plate and used it today to test it out. I got the same results as before, the part did not adhere. The first test was with a 0.6mm nozzle and it failed quickly. I swapped out the nozzle for the stock 0.4mm nozzle that came with the H2S and it failed alot longer into the print. See the attached 2 pictures. I am INCREDIBLY frustrated with this machine as nothing seems to be working. As a reminder, I am printing Polymaker (Fiberon) PA6-GF with the bed at 100C, the chamber at 60C, and the nozzle at 300C. Is there anything at all you all can think of that may be causing this? I did check to make sure the bed was indeed at 100C, and it was. What makes this even more frustrating is I am writing this right next to my two X1C’s that are happily printing the same material on a textured plate at 40C nozzle, 32C chamber, and 300C nozzle…I don’t know what else to do. Please jump in with suggestions
I was having the same issue. I ended up buying Visonminers Nano Polymer Adhesive. One application, on the PEI build plate, will allow you a decent amount of prints before needing to re-apply. It’s a liquid that you put onto the build plate. It does leave a bit of a residue on the part sometimes that can come off with some water. It did really help though.
