So I’m trying to print an item that is 250mm x 150mm so family close to the limit of max print area on the P1s.
At the edges and corners there seems to be a problem with bed adhesion and the corners curling up etc. I washed the plate before starting print.
Is this a common problem when printing this close to the edge, it’s the first time I’ve printed something this big and close to the edge. What can I do to sort this out?
Also when printing the adaptive cubic infill the printer was very noisy as if it was dragging the nozzle over the previous layers. I’ve not heard it sound like this before. The quality of the printed infill is very rough as well unless this is how adaptive cubic is. It didn’t seem right.
I haven’t tried printing any thing smaller as another test print, just wanted some opinions first incase something is wrong.
Im using esun pla ss which has always given pretty perfect prints.
Please see photos attached.
Thanks in advance.
Dan
The two things that are typical remedies for this is to add brims but at 250mm the slicer may reject it as too wide.
The alternate is to raise experiment with different layer temps between your first layer and subsequent layers. The reason you’re seeing this lifting at the corners is that the mass of the walls are shrinking thus causing the filament to curl.
You could also use glue along the peripheral edge too. That may help.
I agree with @Olias and @JonRaymond . Make sure your build plate is really clean and use glue, either liquid or a stick. If using a stick, just put a few lines down, then take a moist to wet cloth to evenly distribute a thin Glue/Water film across the plate and let the water evaporate. The see if you can add mouse ears. For added adhesion, you can also increaae 1st layer plate and nozzle temps by 5°.
To reduce warping, you can also close the lid and door (never had heat creep with normal PLA), keep the chamber warm and (only in desperate cases) slow down and decrease layer height.
Regarding the infill, it scratches when a) using a crossing infill (use honeycomb or gyroid), b) warping/curling occurs (as in your case, but it should only happen where the warp manifests, not in the centre). As for infill quality, I have noticed this when a) the filament is moist (horse anybody?), or when b) infill flow is at a maximum (so maybe lower it a little, shows in the flow preview and always happens with combine infill enabled for this reason).
I increased the wall thickness to 4 walls so would this make the problem worse. Should I reduce back down to 2 do you think?
I’ve never used glue, what do you use just a pritt stick?
Do you wash the plate after every print job to get rid of the glue?
Hi Eno,
What do you mean by slow the infil flow down? Do you mean reduce the infill speed?
I have calibrated the filament and done a max flow test which I have set in the filament profile so it won’t allow printing speeds that would require higher flow that the set max flow anyway.
You would probably be better off opening the door/lid and turning off the AUX fan. It blows directly at the edge of the part if you have the part with the long side parallel with the door.
You might also trying rotating the part 90 degrees get it further away from the fan.
It is unlikely that a reduction in wall thickness will have a large enough effect on a model that size. You could try it but you may be better off experimenting with a lower percentage infill to see if that counteracts the forces of contraction.
Don’t go crazy on what kind of glue. Any stick glue like the kind of glue one sees used for early school children will work and is water soluble. The ones marked “3d Printing” are the same exact formula but have a different label and 2x the cost.
I purchased this last year and compared. It’s the same product as Elmers glue stick. It even tastes the same (Truthfully, it’s non-toxic in order to be safe around small children) https://www.amazon.com/s?k=3d+printing+glue+stick
Not quite. First you should check in the flow preview window if your infill flow is close to the limit. If not, then that is not a reason.
I am currently doing large prints where “combine infill” saves quite a few hours. But that option leads to maximum flow and hence messy infill.
Zooming in on the infill though, it does however look like your filament could also benefit from a night in the dryer or on the heatbed. That’ll also help with warping.
So here’s what I am trying on another attempt.
I reduced the speed of the infill to bring the flow rate down so it’s not running close to maximum. Yet to be seen if this helps with the quality of the infill.
I increase the nozzle temp to 230, the range is 210 to 230 and the bed temp to 65.
I’ve turned off the aux fan and have door and lid open.
I rotated the part 90 degrees so the short edges are at the front and back.
My flow ratio is 0.98 after running tests and this is also the manufacturer’s recommendation.
My K value 0.025.
My filament runs direct from the dryer and says the RH is 35%.
Ive been watching the print from the start and 1st thing I’ve noticed is it seems to be under extruding when laying down the bottom surfaces as in areas I can still see the bed when printing the very first layer.
When going round some of the corners on the walls some of the walls aren’t sticking properly and the extruded filament pulls away not following the corner properly.
There seems to be some lumps left in the walls sometimes and then this has a knock on affect with subsequent layers.
I general doesn’t seem to be printing the walls very cleanly.
Where the bottom surface layers are meeting the hole walls it seems to leave quite a gap.
Can see lumps in the bottom surface layers.
The infill is full of lumps and bumps which seems to get worse and sounds terrible when printing. I’ve printed adaptive cubic before and never noticed it to print and sound like this.
Its frustrating keep wasting filament I’ve always had pretty good prints but never watched this closely so maybe I’m expecting to much but something doesn’t seem right to me. I’ve just started a new roll of filament so maybe it’s that? Same make and type I used as before though so still running the same calibrations settings.
OK so I dried the filament for 5 hrs.
Seems to be printing more cleanly and on a 100 x 50 x 10mm thick test print with 15% gyroid infill I still got small amount of curling at the corners. I increased the bed temp to 70c and seemed to then be 99% OK. This was with aux fan off and lid off and door open.
I live in the UK so don’t have AC and an ambient room temp of 20-22c.
So today printed a part and again getting corners lifting.
I am also running the previous firmware as see a post about people having problems with latest.
I’ve also seen people say that using a smooth pei plate solved this problem over textures so I’ve ordered one and will try that.
Just can’t understand how I’ve printed quite a few large flat parts with no problems then just starts out of nowhere. I need the parts to be perfect as they are functional parts that fit together.
Any more suggestions welcome please.
That seems rather high for PLA. Vicat softening temp is way below that. Not an issue for small, short prints, but you can get “interesting” results with long and large prints. Ask me how I know
Might just be the weather. Having joined during the summer, you are likely seeing slightly different temps and humidities than in the last months.
With ambient 22-22°C, you will be OK printing with the door and lid closed to increase the chamber temp with PLA. The reason why that is a good idea is the root cause for warping and curling.
After laying down a hot layer on top of an already cooler layer, the top layer will shrink, pulling up the lower layer. To reduce this uplift, you want to reduce the temperature difference, i.e. print in as warm a chamber as possible without risking heat creep. I usually have a 55°C bed leading to a ~40°C closed chamber temp.
Of course, you’ll need a good adhesion to the build plate regardless (clean bed, maybe glue stick, 5° increased first layer nozzle/bed temp, maybe mouse ears or brim).
Another thing that can help is to reduce the heat input per layer (from on layer 2). It slows down the print (either by direct slowing and/or reducing (local) layer height), but is very effective.
I done 5 hrs as that is what esun recommend I think but will leave it overnight then to be on the safe side.
I was using 60c but read alot of people saying try 70 for better bed adhesion if warping is a problem as reduces the differential between bed and nozzle temp.
So do use 60c for first layer and 55c there after?
What nozzle temp do you use and what make of filament are you using?
So I was printing with door and lid closed and aux fan on before and just been trying with them open as that’s what bambu recommend for pla and others suggesting so contradicting information makes it hard to work out what’s best. If got door and lid closed would you still have aux fan off? And what about chamber fan?
(Truthfully, it’s non-toxic in order to be safe around small children)
