I received yesterday my P1S and started right away to print an Enderdragon for my son.
After the printing finished I checked some pieces and figured out some parts aren’t being printed correctly.
What did I wrong?
I was using the Bambo provided PLA.
Most probably you forgot to add support in slicer. Such overhang simply cannot be printed with good quality, when nozzle tries to lay material “in air”
The first print despite looking onto the missing supports was brilliant, unfortunately I messed it up with the dimension and the pieces were printed incredibly huge.
Printing now at a smaller scale, including supports I am facing the issue about closed holes. I tried to open these manually but afterwards the joint wasn’t working as the tolerance was too big. While searching through the forum I found there is an option within Precision section “Slice gap closing radius” which I tried to reduce to 0.001 mm, somehow I didn’t recognized any differnce.
In addition I tried to rotate my object to avoid the joint is lying on the ground, again with the same result.
You could try reducing your flow ratio in your filament settings by -.02. So if its at .96 now you could try to set it at .94
Also try changing your line width by say 4 or 5 percent smaller if the first thing didnt work
That is enough from being ok to being underextruded in some cases. My point remains the same. Proper calibration first. Blindly adjusting values is a no-no.
Looking at the photo’s and noticing the texture on one side, I’d say it’s almost definitely a lack of support under that extruding clip. My X1C is capable of insane bridging and your P1 is a very similar machine. But it does need a wee help now and again.
A major plus of the Bambu printers is that they have very well set up profiles and well constructed machines that give great results with little fiddling. The Bambu supplied filaments make it even easier. I’ve had great results with loads of different filaments just using their preset profiles.
As suggested by others, I’d rerun the machine calibration just in case, it’s all automatic and easy anyway. In your slicer, run the auto calibrations too. Then when you go to slice the model, just activate the automatic support and let it work it out.
Most of the time, the auto settings and the base profiles will get a good job done. Once you’ve got into printing and learnt the basics, you can then have a good play with some different settings if you need.
I‘ve rerun the calibration but the result remains still poor.
Also I tried to reduce the nozzle Temp as I am a bit confused. The Bambu Filament role states another temperature as stated within Bambulab Studio.
The most weirdest part is, the white printing is within Bambu Filament, which I run 3 times with slightly modified settings. Later on, I used JAYO Filament in Grey, the resulted print out was brilliant. After I was running the second plate, the same problem occurred also with that filament. I got again heavy stringing (even don’t know as a beginner if this is really the same type of stringing).
I really consider to send the printer back as it seems I am not capable to print properly.
So the spot in 3D model that should be empty (a hole) is filled with material when the model is scaled to smaller size, is that correct? I would look carefully in the slicer what exactly happens while scaling down / up. Normally this should not happen.
What kind of calibration have you actually done? Printer calibration, or print parameters calibration for particular filament?
These are layers, or even single material lines, that won’t stick to previous layer.
That’s not stringing, stringing are very fine threads. What you have here is material that was extruded in the air and then got pasted onto the part where the nozzle touched the wall, likely root cause your part had poor adhesion to the build platform and moved out of position.
Well you give up too easy here, the Bambu Labs printers are very beginner friendly but they will also not hold your hands with everything. There are many instructional videos available on-line which outline common mistakes and issues with 3D FDM printing. One basic item that was important 8 years back when I started with 3D FDM printing and still is – Good build plate adhesion and the related first layer quality is key. If your part doesn’t stick well to the build platform then you will have print failures at a later point of the print especially with tall parts.
We don’t become experts overnight, 3d printing has a notoriously steep learning curve and I get stuck with issues as do most of us. Passing by I can see you’ve made inroads to some problems and ran head on into others. May I suggest you toy with it a little longer but with much simpler models without overhangs and complicated structures. These always complicate problem solving as variables go off the scale as we tend to ask soooo many questions (from experience) and answering them all is not going to be possible.
MakerWorld should have a structured learning course of sorts, not trying to discount any prior knowledge or expertise, it just helps to sort out good habits first.
@azm
I concur, it can be frustrating when you get your new toy and the things you try to do just do not work out as expected. May I recommend that you go on the Bambu Labs Makerworld site and look for models that have print profile available and read the comments related to that model to see if there had been printing issues with that profile. For now stay clear of models which do not have print profiles uploaded and only give you the RAW STL files and/or other users had significant issues printing the model without making major setting changes. Some gratification with good model prints may get you encouraged again.
Guys, this is an amazing community here !
I was able to print multiple great things from Makerworld.
Overall you are totally right, it’s a steep learning curve and tons of parameters need to be considered. I am willing to learn will print more and more projects also with different parameters to determine what is being changed with which parameter.
Me an many other users of the p1s have been slowing the speed way down. I have not had a single fail since doing so. That was 2 weeks ago, printing multiple things every day, mostly petg with some pla. The stock settings are dumb fast tho some people here will disagree and tell you to buy different filament ext.
No. I do not suggest turning down the acceleration settings which one of the main settings turned down when you go silent mode. For whatever reason turning down the other speed print settings does not slow down the print by a lot. But it will allow you to print b.L petg.