Hi,
After relocating my X1C printer from one desk to another, I did a full calibration and tried to print a Benchy. It failed all four times (with three different filaments, all of which were PLA used regularly before).
It always fails about a third into the print, and gets spaghetti and peels itself off the standard textured bed, as if it’s not adhering to it as well as it should.
I cleaned the nozzle twice with a needle, cleaned the print bed (warm water, soap, etc).
yup, 3 times. I was able to take out the hotend and see that it had been clogged a bit, but in the process (I was too curious), I took it apart, and now I don’t have the thermal paste to put it back together - waiting on it.
It still doesn’t explain to me why it would fail exactly at the same time over and over…
Any chance you could post a picture of the failure and maybr the actual file? One of the sharp-eyed experienced users on here (I am neither) might be able to see if it is something like an overhang issue, bent nozzle, cooling issue… etc.
ok, it failed again. I noticed that on every fail, its basically pealing off the bed on the front of the benchy. The PEI textured plate seems to be clean, not bent and I regularly wash it, clean it.
The bed temp shows 55/55 on the studio - anything else I should check?
Cleaning of plates is usually underestimated. Not even any soap can work well enough and type of sponge also matters.
Essentially Textured plate has small cavities that can get clogged and very hard to wash off.
Dawn soap and rough surface of the sponge usually do the trick, but early X1 and P1 plates are also known to lose their “stickiness” that require sanding down a bit.
Yes, sandpaper, yes you must scratch it. Yes, it’s an official method to do so.
Grinding the surface of the Textured PEI plate with fine sandpaper or steel wool will create a new, clean surface and enhance the build plate’s adhesion. It’s essential to ensure the surface must be properly cleaned of any sanding debris.
A full bed single layer print is a good way to see if you have contaminates still on the bed. Check out the thread post below for step by step instructions.
This isn’t one of the 2 sided plates you can just flip over is it? I did that after some pla-silk caused a no-stick zone (for regular PLA) and I was too lazy to clean.
This happened to me too! I printed my benchy several times on my printer, (I have a textured PEI plate also) and it failed every time. I finally figured out what the problem was, and it just needed a bit of glue.
Did you manage to solve this? I just ran into the same issue.
Exactly the same layer, exactly the same timing.
Printer: P2S with the basic Textured PEI plate. Material : PLA Silk+ ( original Bambu brand ) Calibration has been done a few times already. The printer is about 1.5 weeks old.
The print bed has been washed with soap and properly cleaned several times.
I’m using the internal model to print.
I printed around five boats to tests materials, and then this started to happen — three times in a row. This strongly feels like a mechanical issue. At that layer height, it looks like the nozzle physically pushes the print out of its position. Not sure what I should do ?
Do not use the internal model, as it is optimized for speed as a benchmark and not for quality. I’m not 100% sure, but I think the internal model uses rectilinear infill, which tends to hammer against the object being printed. Download the model from MakerWorld and use a more suitable infill, such as gyroid.
Please note that Silk PLA requires special settings. The internal models are not optimized for Silk PLA! It should always be printed using Bambu Studio. Do not use the standard Bambu profile, but instead use the following settings:
In short: The problem in this case was probably using the internal model für Silk PLA. Use Bambu Studio and create a print profile with the settings from the wiki. Use an infill such as Gyroid.
