Warping and its little cousin curling are well understood FDM failure modes which became more prominent with the higher speeds the Bambu’s introduced. The underlying principles were clearly and succintly described by @CarbonForge .
Of course, there are further details that have drastic consequences on the material behavior. Drafts, filament moisture, thick, wide & fast lines are just some of the factors in warping.
You can find plenty of posts here on warping, what is causing it and how to prevent it.
Here’s just one:
Of course, it could also be something different or maybe even new.
But please share the relevant information.
Pic’s, key parameters used (specific material and pre-print drying conditions, nozzle size and layer height, environmental temp, speeds, cooling settings, changes made to defaults (z-hop was changed, how about wipe-on-retract?, what else?), which “FDM test” (there are thousands! Hardly any adhere to any kind of standard though …).
As a hint, temp towers give visual indications of the effects of specific settings such as retract, z-hop, wipe-on-retract, bridging parameters, drooping and curling at different temperatures with all further key settings (in particular flow, flow dynamics, part fan, aux-fan, env. temp) fixed (i.e. dialed in).
It is very misleading if there may be moisture in the filament though.
To properly start at the beginning:
How do you know? How long did you dry which filament at which temp?
Just in case:
