What is the general consensus opinion of the best build plate to print nylon on. It certainly does not like my gold PEI plate, that’s for sure.
Seeing lots of good comments about Garolite but yesterdays miracle product is often todays junk.
I’m wanting to hear experiences and opinions. If nylon/PA6 has whipped up on you, thats what I want to hear.
People run these printers. I’d like to hear peoples thoughts on using nylon.
I did just buy a garolite plate
I would also note that people say glass is agood option but the reason for glass and the reason for garolite are 180º out from each other.
I got my super-turbocharged plates charging up as I type this missive.
Fired up the Sunlu and it is giving off suitable Cherenkov radiation but the neighbors griping about when I turn on the printers new power supply.
Just a little voltage droop.
I’ve not printed a lot of nylon but have had success with smallish prints on the engineering plate (plus glue) that came with my XC1, haven’t tried it on my PS1 but assume it would perform the same with the same plate.
I’ve found a few filaments don’t like the textured PEI plate unless you print a raft, particularly anything with a small footprint. I’ve not tried glue on a textured PEI plate but the last time I looked for printing recommendations, Bambu indicated a PEI plate with glue but I can’t find where I got that from to see if its still the current recommendation and whether they referred to smooth or textured PEI.
I have printed with COPA and bambu PA6-GF. Research and failure on PEI plates led me to order a Garolite G10 plate.
The first company never shipped it so I spent 3 wereks waiting and reordering a DarkMoon G10 plate which arrived very efficiently and works great with those two filaments. This week, I will test with Matterhackers “Build” series Nylon and Polymaker Fiberon PA6-GF.
In the waiting period, i tried 3M Blue Painter’s tape and… voila. works PERFECTLY well. In fact, i still use it when i want a rougher surface texture.
Warping on square edges is still an issue, though much better than when I started… Hoping the Fiberon lives up to its promise of being “warp free.”
I may have ordered direct from that same company and waited and waited for plate which never showed up.
Subsequently ordered 2 of the identical same company’s plate but from Amazon.**
Have not used another plate since I got those two plates.
I lightly scuff up the the surface periodically with a sanding pad.
Since going with that build plate and cleaning process I have not had a failed print caused by adhesion issues.
** Looks like that company went belly up. Amazon has “Unavailable” and the link to the company itself is dead.
I use an engineering plate with hairspray and have never run into any issues.
Fiberon PA6-GF25 (formerly polymide pa6GF) lived up to its rep.
I used the printing profile for BBL X1 provided on the polymaker website and it pribnted flawlessly. Zero appreciable warp before annealing. Because the annealing temp is 100F (10hrs) I can use a Polydryer or just throw the parts in my cabelas 160L dehydrator which i normally run at 95 for 24hrs every coiuple of days in a cold garage, but will run this cycle at 100.
Since this thread is about bed adhesion,. I can report that the Darkmoon G10 plate mimicks the PLA adhesion of the supertack bambu plate, but with the PA6GF25
SuperTack plate is for PLA and PETG while garolite is for anything.
I have a SuperTack plate and a garolite plate and those two coatings couldn’t be more different.
The SuperTack material seems soft, whereas the garolite is hard.
Maybe i put that badly.
Nylon sticks to the G10 Plate like PLA sticks to the new supertack plate. Almost.
I’ve had good success with the my Light Lightyear 3D garolite plate with the only very minimal downside is the steel backing plate makes it very stiff. Much more than any other plate I own.