Best practice for printing logo in first layer (2 colors)

Edit: Since I can open threads and post pictures now, here’s my thread: First layer text gets overprinted on same layer

"Hey together! I really don’t know what to do anymore. Made an stl with a form and text in it in Fusion and splitted this to objects in Bambuslicer to change the print colors. I want the text on the first layers and filled with another color. I don’t know why, but except of printing around the letters it’s just prints and fills over the text on the first layers. Can anyone help me? "

For future people reading this thread - here is the solution

[https://logoleagues.com](https://logoleagues.com/)

Did you use AMS to do it?

I’m having an issue trying to print a phone case with a logo, it seems to print the black part one side of the logo and then start it on the other side resulting in a visible line where they meet.
I have tried different bottom surface patters but they don’t seem to improve on this.
Is there a way I can get it to print the whole layer from one side to the other?

I use Bamb Studio to send print files to my BambuLab P1S. I created the model with Fusion 360. On the surface, which will then become the first print layer, I created some writings that I gave a thickness of 0.2 mm, I set the printer to have a layer height of 0.2 mm. From Fusion 360 I save the entire body as a mesh, choosing “one body per file” as the structure. In Bambu Studio I colored those parts with the colors of the filaments that the printer must use. When Bambu Studio shows the Preview it assigns to those filaments not only the first layer of 0.2 mm, but also the next two, up to the third layer. I finally discovered that there is an option in the “Resistence” tab called “Bottom Painting Layer Penetration” that has the default value of 3; changed to 1 and everything is fine now!

I finally figured it out, and it’s easy in Bambu Studio only. Import the SVG and scale and position it. Right click on it, select a Filament for it. Right click again, select Edit SVG. Select the desired Z dimension depth of the emboss. Set the Z elevation for exactly half the thickness, so it meets the first layer exactly. Set the SVG as a Modifier and click Slice.

I am trying to do this with a simple logo in red which came in as an SVG and it all came in and looks good but the outer surface implies it is not a complete first layer or something. I cannot see an SVG setting where it has the thickness settings like you show or are present when using the text tool. Suggestions?

Ok figured out that you don’t add it as an object you import via the import menu, now I get the edit svg as you show! But it is not penetrating down into the first layer on the plate.

I think you want to use “Add modifier” to load the SVG. Set the camera to be facing the face you want the logo on(in this case viewing from under the plate looking up) and then right click the object under process to get the menu containing “Add modifier”.
Modifying both cuts and joins so you don’t have any overlap that can override the logo.
I think what McKrakkus did was make the logo the same thickness as the cover to reach the plate but if you do what said said you can do just a few layers(I see several people recommending 3 layers, I am currently trying to figure out if I need more than 1 layer or more purge to make my orange come out right)
After you add the modifier(s) don’t forget to select a new filament colors)
The preview after the slice should confirm if it is on the first layer or not.
(Don’t know why I can’t attach screenshots, they show up in the preview but give an error when I hit reply)

Follow up, (I’m using a 0.2 nozzle with 0.1 layer thickness, I tested black, yellow, and orange with green behind it at 0.1 mm, 0.2, mm 0.3 mm and 0.6 mm and had about equal color improvement from one print to the next) black is good at 0.2 mm(might be 2 layers fills in gaps better which could mean more then 0.2m with a 0.4mm nozzle) but orange and yellow like 0.6+ mm. I have heard white is the worst so 1.0+ mm is probably what is needed for white (other people were listing 0.6 mm and 1 mm as how much is needed and since how much is needed is color dependent I suspect the 1 mm was from white tests but that is not confirmed) I suspect 0.4 is good for dark colors but haven"t tested.

forgive my ignorance, but why are you using 3x your layer height ie: 0.6mm for the aperture for your logo to fit into and for your logo itself? Why not just use 1 layer? i’ve tried this workflow and the slicer wants to print my logo (white) before the main body (black) which is great and is exactly what i want, but after printing the first layer of the logo it switches colour to black to fill around the logo, then switched back to white to print the next layer of the logo. Surely this is wasteful and pointless? Why not just have the logo and aperture 1 layer thick? or am i missing some other setting? appreciate your response

At color thicknesses below 0.6mm, there’s a good chance that underlying colors shine through.

:four_leaf_clover: & :crossed_fingers:

PLA is translucent; colorants can reduce this for example black PLA tends to be quite opaque and could be fine with 1 layer while white is probably the most translucent (pure natural PLA is slightly yellow) and some sources I have read indicate it may need as much as 1mm to be visibly pure white.

One thing that helped me with first-layer logos was slightly increasing the height of the color regions so the second color has a bit more surface to bond to. Also worth checking the actual logo colors before matching filament - I’ve used https://colorpickerimage.org/ a few times to pull hex colors from brand images so I could pick the closest filament combo.

This forum thread is quite old, but I decided to share my experience as well, since it might be helpful to someone.

For me the best practice is to make the logo in 3D file. There are tones of softwares but if you are using SolidWork for example I use the following approach:

  1. Open SVG logo as a sketch and copy
  2. Paste the sketch in 3D model and place it and scale it as it has to be
  3. Cut it from the model
  4. Convert entities and extrude it back but the key moment here is to uncheck “Merge result” so we will have separate body of the logo.
    Now you can save it as STL file and we have separated bodies of the logo so we can paint it in BambuStudio

Thank you for this really help

New user to the H2C, two weeks and I am having a ball.

Here is my take on it. I design pretty much everything I am making in Alibre Design Expert and Bambu Studio (BS from now on…) ignores the graphics/text unless it is recessed or raised above the part surface.

Playing with the design, I did an extrude cut only 0.002” deep and the imported the file into BS and can then color the almost invisible recess. Printing it results with graphics/text that look the same as the text applied in BS. Anything much deeper than 0.002” has the printer treating it as a different plane.

HTH

I created Material Divider (available from ititit.co.uk) to make multi-colour STL printing more reliable.

Normally, I make coloured details about 0.01 mm lower than the main surface, then use Bambu Studio’s fill-painting tool. This looks good with solid filament, but dark infill can sometimes show through lighter or translucent materials.

Material Divider solves this by turning the selected surface details into separate, correctly positioned parts.

The basic process is:

  1. Open an STL.

  2. Select the recessed details or other surfaces you want to colour.

  3. Assign each selection to a material.

  4. Choose how many layers deep each material should be.

  5. Export the finished model as a 3MF.

The exported 3MF contains one assembled model with individually selectable material parts. Their original positions are preserved, including details on the top, bottom or sides of the model.

It also includes:

  • Multiple materials and colours

  • Box selection for choosing many details

  • Lines, shapes and text

  • Undo and redo

  • Saveable projects

  • Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer, PrusaSlicer, Cura and generic 3MF profiles

  • Filament-slot mapping

  • Manual support painting

  • Optional Windows Explorer STL thumbnails

The idea is to get clean, solid colour regions without dark infill leaking underneath another colour—and without redesigning the original model as dozens of separate objects.