Best practices for thermal insulation? Maximum chamber temperature?

My printer make it to 57-60 when printing ABS or ASA with no wrap, trash bag, praying.

I simply have a foam casket under the glass on my riser, I have tpu printed strips on the left door edge, and I keep both closed when printting. I can easily hit 56 and on large, small, and my porage is just right have had no warpage or adheision problems.

In my humble and quite honest opinion, a heater nor any special stuff is needed unless you live where part of your job is feeding reindeer and making toys is a daily occurance.

Printing a bird house now in ABS-GF (does warp less but…still) with no issues. It’s about the 6th or 7th in that or plain ABS.

I looked into a heater. After getting parts, putting it together, getting angry, putting it together again, and trying it I came to the conclusion I wasted my time.
I can make a killer dry box if needed.

Oh, and I aviod reddit like it’s my exwife trying to be nice. Just not a good thing.

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That’s good to hear, I have tested what chamber temperature I can get and so far, with the bed set to 100, I’ve been able to hit 47 degrees max. Yet to actually print with ABS as I want extraction setup first, it’ll be interesting if the hotend adds the 10 or so degrees difference to our numbers.

I haven’t made a riser yet but was thinking of adding some radiator insulation foil to the underside of the glass as I noticed that getting quite hot.

Out of interest, what riser and door gasket are you using please?

Cheers

You could add tin foil, but I’ve never found it to be needed. I have a riser that lifts the AMS about 4 inches above, radiant heat hasn’t had any affect.

Works well enough. I used th efirst for a couple of weeks then this one. It makes sense, so why not. There are a few on Makerworld that go across the top, they interfered more than they helped.

I use a bento box with 24v fans. It scrubs well enough and I did create a magnetic holder for the exhaust on the back that holds a filter. I really don’t know if that’s needed but I’m testing it out.

I think I was at 55 earlier. I’ve been battling the Panda Touch today so I’ve been more focused on that.

It’s at 50 in this shot because I killed power to the printer to rebind after the Touch screwed me. Recovering as I type this and the print will be fine. Layers adhere well to one another and I’ve dropped one of these several times. Hard.

That’s about it. I really think some overthink printing with ABS on these. I will say PA-6 GF has given me some fits but I’m not ready to pass judgement on it.

I did insulate with the fiberglass. It’s .8 mm thick so not super crazy performance wise. It definitely reduced the time to get to 60C on my printer by 30-40 minutes. It also helps keep the chamber temperature (which is more important) higher for longer.

I set my exhaust fan speed to 10% going into a 13 ft 4" ducting that goes to my window. The ducting has a inline fan (Terrabloom ECMF-100) to keep air flowing in the ducting. I also printed a bentobox (with the wireless bentobox mod (Wireless powered Bambu Lab Bento Box Air Purifier for X1C / P1P by Shaladdin | Download free STL model | Printables.com).

Ya, the only time I have had real issues (thus needing preheating) with ABS and ASA has been larger prints so increased chance of warping. For ABS heat soaking the chamber has been enough. For Bambu Lab ASA I needed to really slow printing down to reduce the warping. I am testing Qidi ASA to see if it is more forgiving (based on this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GfG65ypKTPE&t=953s)

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