Hi, I’m trying to optimize layer adhesion and minimize warping with ABS.
I’m getting ~10C higher chamber temperatures and better print results with a towel wrapped around the printer
I’m planning to graduate to reflective foam insulation for a more permanent solution
My question is: What’s the maximum chamber temperature for continuous operation on the X1C? Not just for heat creep in the hot end, but what’s the limit for the health of the mechanical and electrical parts? Can anyone from Bambu speak to this? Will the printer warn me or actively limit the chamber temperature if I exceed the design limit?
I also noticed warping when printing ABS.
I raised the bed temperature (textured PEI) to 110°C and closed the front door gaps with tape so no cool air is sucked in while printing. Also, should be clear anyway, reduce the part cooling fan as much as possible.
I reached a chamber temperature of 55°C at a room temperature of 21°C.
I got up to 50ºC with a 100ºC bed after a few prints. Took no real precautions and maybe even had a window open for a while so getting it hotter might be possible.
But I don’t think you can, or should, get the chamber to 90ºC, you’ll cook something. Or maybe you won’t? N17 motors are rated up to 130ºC, I saw them at ~55ºC while printing when the chamber was maybe 30ºC, so they might still work, but I’m not sure about the rest of the printer, in particular the camera or the electronics above it might not like that at all, and the controller is also no that well cooled. Also the heatbreak will not cool anymore, will the extruder still move the filament when it’s 90ºC? X1C is great but I don’t think it was designed for this…
That was fun. My kiln certainly works ! It just kept climbing. Even with no back, I hit 77 degrees C on the panel for chamber temp. All openings taped and the chute stuffed and taped.
and it was still going up when I hit the brakes. Probably not worth a bit of print flexibility but illuminating anyways. I will likely use it, but put on at the last minutes of print to slow cooldown only.
The only thing that concerns me is how the electronics would do with too high a chamber temp.
Haven’t studied airflow patterns … There’s a board on the carriage and several others scattered around.
I’ve gotten to 50°C (barely) with multiple 110° bed temp soaks (to stabilize the warping issue) and a couple long high temp prints. 22°C room.
In case Swim_Missile doesn’t answer (it was a Feb post) it’s one of several lightweight PLA’s, from the look a LW PLA-CF. Used a lot in the drone and airplane world, cool stuff. YT has some review vids on them.
I wanna say I’ve gotten it up to 63-64c with bed at 120. More than enough, even had to turn the bed down because I was having heat creep from lack of ams strength with PC.
We added reflective bubble sheet. Quick and easy. Made a door flap hinged and secured with composite layup sealing tape.
Result was a 13C bump in chamber temp.
Between that bump and slowing down the infill speeds, was able to finally print this 280g part in Bambu PC.
Previous condition with 50C chamber temp yielded 5 of 6 attempts failed due to prevent part from warping then crashing the print with the print head sticking to the part.
We are printing PC and PA6-GF30 (nylon 6 glass filled 30%).
Interesting… I’m wondering about the carbon rods and at what temperature the resin in there starts to soften. That could damage the precision of the printer without failing immediately…
@shafi.keisler Nice! I’ve hit 64, that was about the max unless I run the bed at 120, that’s with a popup tent enclosure and the x1 enclosure.
I was kinda disappointed that they didn’t seal the enclosure.
Doubtful, that would be an elementary mistake on their part… Though they didn’t seal the enclosure, which in itself is kinda necessary for some stuff, obviously not all.
Since adding the insulation, we run the machine another 120hr with no issue. That machine now has 500hr. We’ve insulated the second machine and it runs consistently at the same temp.
Several weeks ago we added a 24watt dimmable LED 12inch x 12inch flat panel to each machine. This helps to raise the temps further - close to 70C.
The machine at left has the panel installed. The one at right is prior to install with the original strip.
To prevent interference with the lidar we dim the light.
I’ve had it up to 64, it was for PC, but the AMS motors are weak and at that point, could not overcome the inherent heat creep.
Though I did the same test a 2nd time with the spool on the back and printed fine. Ended up just turning the bed down to 90 though to keep the spool in the AMS.
