Which victron inverter in particular will do that?
This sounds like the exact thing I want. I would just set it to whatever the idle watts were and pull the spikes from the battery. Making the wall draw stable and predictable.
And how do you program it? Over bluetooth, or some other way?
program via VictronConnect App - Victron Energy
Got my first overload today on my Anker Solix C1000. I didn’t catch how much was being pulled at the time but:
This was with the H2D heating the bed and the chamber, while an AMS 2 Pro was drying at 65C using a power adapter connected to the power station. I’ve removed the AMS from the power station but keeping it on the same circuit for testing for now.
If this had flipped the breaker instead it would have taken over as a UPS, but as a safety measure it disabled the AC outlets, powering down the printer. I have one AMS powered by the printer, if this happens again I plan on buying a second power adapter and connecting both AMSes elsewhere
Completely random comment, but I absolutely love my Victron car charger. It brought back a group 51 battery that sat in my insight completely flat for 4 months. I then tossed it in my V8 Grand Jeep Cherokee (the insight got a lithium 12v) and it served me well in that vehicle until I put a proper sized battery in it.
Point is, I love victron stuff.
You guys think this one will do the job? How about for 2 h2d’s? To prevent the breaker from popping.
Yes, those will work, but it looks like you’ll be running it in “overload” if both kick into heating at the same time. Normally those peak overload ratings are for things like motors starting, not running for minutes.
As basic due diligence, you might want to call shopsolarkits for a free sanity check. They sell that unit and could probably compare it to other alternatives when you explain what you need it for. I’ve not dealt with them at all, but I’ve heard they provide full support at no extra charge. Despite the name, it doesn’t have to be solar.
My guess is you could probably get something for much cheaper that would meet your requirements, but the devil is in the details. I mean, potentially even something like a $399 Pecron might be good enough: PECRON E1000LFP Portable Power Station 1800W 1024Wh
but maybe you want something more modular, with the batteries separated out. It somewhat depends on personal preference whether you want a simple “plug and play” solution or more of a DIY. The Victron is very definitely more of a DIY in that respect, which is perfectly fine if that’s what you’re looking for. Victron is well known for quality. Even something as simple as fan noise might matter a lot to you vs someone else who just doesn’t care about that. The big advantage of DIY is that a failure in one part doesn’t mean you throw the whole thing away. e.g. if the batteries fail, you just replace the batteries, not the entire system. On the other hand, no DIY system will be UL approved, which can have home owners insurance ramifications, even if individual components are UL approved. Your home owners might require system level certification.
The price per kwh on the Pecron is crazy low. I would have bought one instead of my ecoflow except I’m running it in my house 24/7.
If you don’t mind spending 2k+ any of the ecoflow with a sufficiently high rating that also support “x-fusion” can solve your problem.
Another small update on the Anker Solix C1000, I pulled the plug from the wall while the H2D was pulling a little over 1450W and it didn’t even stutter, handled the <20ms switchover time like a champ. I got a nice arc when I pulled the plug too 
I suspect I could get 2-3 hours of printing done on backup power alone with it
This one is exactly 2K if you don’t mind only a 2 year warranty.
This is also an option for less than 500. EF also includes a 5 year warranty with their reburb units(at least, it says so on the page).
[Edit]: My Delta 2 sat in my Jeep for the past year an a half, through two summers, and it doesn’t have any noticable degredation(I live where it gets 110F+ outside).
I just ordered the 2x AC version (no advantage, it was just cheaper for me) of the multiplus II for a giant UPS, I can try out the “power boost” feature of it and let you know.
The one you have a link to is the 24, which is better than the one I’m using if you can make a battery string. 48 is even better (smaller cables and the inverter is more efficient).
I’m using the 12 since I had a spare 12V AGM lead acid sitting around, but don’t use lead acid for power boost, get lifepo4. I’ve also ordered the 2xAC version, but it should be the same unit.
I use an Anker 767 right now and it will switch fine between battery/solar and the grid with my H2d and P1S. They claim 20ms and it works fine. Both have AMS units, an OG and the AMS 2. I can’t integrate this unit with Home Assistant so if I forget to check the battery level it won’t fall back to grid and I have to charge it at 200W for a min or 2 then can power back up and resume prints. Never had issues unless the print was sitting for a long time.
That works for me BUT, if I wanted constant power, I would use a battery bank, a Victron MPPT, inverter and some smart plugs and an ATS. When my batteries get to 12.9v or whatever you want, the ATS will switch to grid, and the batteries will charge to 13.3v and then the ATS switches back. That’s how the rest of my rooms are set up. I might switch my kitchen over to this Anker unit and have the above system for my printers. That just sounds like a lot of work, lol.
These all-in-one systems are slick but have limitations I can’t stand so I just learned to build my own. It’s a little cheaper but waaaay more versatile.
Multiplus ii arrived today, it’s much heavier than I was expecting. Need some battery cables now. Might not be till the weekend till I get it all together.
Ok, I think im going with this, to power 2 h2d’s.
Victron Energy MultiPlus-II Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger for 120 amp Battery, 120V, 3000VA 12-Volt
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BZV65Y33/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AKZDRLCEH09FL&psc=1
Any input on which batteries and how many for max capacity?
I’ve had good luck with these:
From time to time they go on sale for $180.
The advantage over other options are:
- cost
- metal case
- bluetooth for reading the interior cell voltages as a check to ensure that cell balancing is working. also monitor interior temperature as a further check.
- you can open it up by unscrewing and inspect the cells for swelling if you ever want to. Most other batteries have plastic cases that are permanently glued shut, so there is no non-destructive way to check for this with them.
The listed spec says “Standard Charge/ Discharge 83A/83A” That should be more than enough to run both printers simultaneously. That’s just 1/2 C, so it shouldn’t pose any challenge.
If you only care about running each printer for 5 minutes to get past the “hump” of power draw, then one should be enough and still leave headroom. You could always add more in parallel though if you wanted to run longer a lot longer.
You can find a teardown on youtube if you want to look inside. That’s what I did before ordering mine. I have four of them. I ordered mine on sale last December, and they all arrived very well packaged in foam and with no damage.