It’ll probably work, but I’ll have mine tested in a few days, if you want to wait.
I think I mentioned to avoid 12V if there is any possibility of you being able to use 24V or 48V.
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Nice. Ill have to do some research on the 12v/24v/48v.
Which batteries are you going with?
I also got one of these, for the same reasons:
It’s quite heavy though.
There’s an argument for network batteries, but they’re more expensive.
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I chose 12V because I had a spare AGM lead acid sitting here. You want lithium for power assisting. I should have just bought a 24V, but I’ll only use UL lithium batteries in the house and I haven’t done the research yet to find one I’m willing to buy. 12V is not a mistake, it’s just a bit of a trade off.
Your Amazon seller is j-random-noname, I bought mine (slightly different model) on Amazon from Inverters-R-Us who is well known.
I’m not sure if you can just put 12V lithium in series if they have a built-in BMS, keep that in mind. So if you just want exactly one battery that you can lift and is cheap, then 12V might be what you want.
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I think what krellboy is referring to is that’s more efficient to run a 120v inverter from 48v, or 36v, or 24v, than it is from 12v. You may or may not care, though, given that you’re looking for short duration boost, not eaking out every watt from a fixed supply for as long as possible to keep your refrigerators or furnace running during an emergency.
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It’s mostly the cables being so thick for 12V at the high currents involved.
12V is fine. But if there was a 48V battery for the same price as 12V at the same kwh, easily 48V.
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Yes, good point regarding the cables. You’re right: especially if you’re drawing a lot of amps, that does factor into the cost of 12v vs 48v. Not to mention it’s just easier to hookup thinner cables.
I look forward to hearing what you guys come up with! 
If you want the very best, without cost consideration, then these claim various UL compliance:
but it’s frankly overkill for your use-case, unless you plan to do other things too.
I’d definitely recommend against going with a total no-name battery. They come and go, with a new one practically every day, and there’s probably zero chance of ever making a successful warranty claim, should that need ever arise. I did that once, and they (or the new owner) even sabotaged their bluetooth app when they changed ownership to make it effectively useless, presumably to reduce finding problems and subsequent warranty claims. Very, very un-cool. I still have a couple of those batteries, and I’ll probably have to extract the cells and hook them up to a new BMS if they’re ever to be as useful as they once were.
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Eco Flow delta 3 plus on order. Seems like it should be able to handle the job. I didn’t think I’d be buying one so soon, but storms knocked my power out yesterday in the middle of a PA-CF print lol.
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I have a plus 3 on my router, works great, but that model won’t solve StreetSport’s problems.
For your application as a pure UPS for a H2D it might not work as the maximum bypass is 15A.
My H2D is on a 15A breaker and it hasn’t tripped ever, so I imagine the 15A bypass should be just fine.
Seems logical, so I ordered a 2nd one for my single H2D. It’s weak in the surge/sag department and way overkill for runtime, but worst-case is I end up with another solar generator I already like even if it doesn’t work. Depending on your distance from Walnut, CA I wonder if mine will get here first.
I’m in Illinois, so I bet you’ll get yours first. I haven’t gotten any kind of shipping email yet
What are you guys printing that you’re so worried about losing one print over a power outage? Or do you just constantly have little power blips that you lose power.
I really wouldn’t care if I lost a print once or twice a year to save the hassle and money. But something like that looks like it would be an insane amount of hours to print. If your regularly printing stuff like that and have regular power issues, this makes sense
This is a 48 hour print (not mine) on a H2D. It’s kind of stupid since he could have probably printed two in 50 hours, but still how would you feel if you lost this print? The ecoflow was $590 and unlike the one on my router I can unplug this one and take it camping too, so it’s not money all tied up just for this.
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Crazy thought: don’t bother with a UPS on the H2D. It’s more economical to print crucial work on other printers with common UPS. For the price of the H2D, you can buy two P1S with UPS for each, and money left over.
Not every problem needs a solution IMO. I’ve decided not to dump a cent into a UPS for this machine, because it would be better spent on real redundancy ( more machines with their own UPS).
FWIW, every CNC lathe, mill, laser, robot, machine center I’ve ever owned operated or commissioned had no UPS either. We still manage to run the businesses just fine, meet deadlines, make money. It really doesn’t matter much for a big printer either (Stratasys doesn’t sell a UPS for their Fortus 900, and nobody seems to care).
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Expensive filaments lol. Don’t want to lose a print half way through a $70 dollar roll of filament.
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I would make the math here.
How many times a year do you have a power outage and what would be the loss.
This probably heavily depends on where you live in the world, but here in the Netherlands I see a power outage on average once every 2 years.
For me no reason to invest in a UPS for that.