You guys will have to update on the Delta 3 Plus after a while. I have one and was going to use it on one of my H2D’s as EcoFlow says it has a UPS function. But I contacted them and they said it’s not recommended for continuous use as a UPS System so I haven’t used mine for it yet.
I have just been using some Cyberpower 1500VA ones and I just leave the room when they preheat so I don’t have to listen to the beeping.
I want to say their reasoning behind this is because keeping the battery charged at full capacity hurts it over time. When it’s used as a UPS, you’re basically bypassing the battery and using grid power while it keeps the battery topped up. You can mitigate this issue by setting the charge limit to 80%. You can also unplug it from the wall and use it once in a while (use the battery) to give it a discharge/charge cycle here and there. I have mine on a smart plug and during heat up I disconnect grid power. When the draw drops back down I turn grid power back on so it can recharge. I also have the charge limit set to 100w so it charges slow.
Just use it. It works great. The H2D and the delta 3 plus don’t even flinch when it actually uses the UPS function.
This was directly from EcoFlow support:
"In addition, we mentioned earlier that “don’t keep the power plugged in” is because in battery bypass mode, although it does not consume battery power, it will cause a large load on the machine.
It is recommended to disconnect the machine from the AC power supply at regular intervals and let it cool down before reconnecting it for use."
Sounds like they’re trying to say their inverters can’t handle high loads for extended periods of time.
I can’t speak to the Eccoflow Delta 3 Plus specifically, but I do get the impression that some of the power stations may not gracefully switch back to pure mains power later on after mains power is restored. Instead, they remain in a kind of double conversion mode. The DJI 1000 may be one of these. That may(?) be the reason for the cautionary warning. It’s easy enough to test whether that’s the case–the inverter remains warm and the fan keeps running indefinitely after mains power is restored.
I’m curious; do the printers not take issue with the approximated sine wave when the electricity is converted from DC to AC?
I’m reasonably sure all the models being discussed are pure sinewave, so that shouldn’t be an issue. Personally, I wouldn’t risk modified sinewave for a 3D printer. Maybe for a toaster, but not electronic gear.
You are right of course. The only reason I ask is because the average person doesn’t have the capability of just checking to see if the UPS is telling the truth or not.
It’s funny they have no issues shipping them to you, but won’t take the return.
Then again - even if you order directly from EcoFlow it’s non-returnable.
I’m actually experiencing an issue with my Delta 3 Plus - where it will seemingly randomly report overload and power off the AC - even when the load is only 100 watts.
Sometimes I can print for 100 hours and no issues, other times after 2 hours of printing it kills the power. It’s happened ~4 times so far.
I have an open ticket with EcoFlow support.
What’s weird about it - is there’s nothing being logged in the app / no notifications are being sent. The only reason I know it happened is because I was sitting here next to it when it happened.
Now don’t get me wrong - I think this may just be a warranty issue with my particular unit - I don’t suspect it’s a wide-spread issue.
I wonder if its because they know the condition of the outgoing batteries but not the incoming returns. Fire risk and all. Burning down a distribution center is bad press lol. Some companies offer fire proof boxes for returns on small items, for this reason
I decided to unplug the EcoFlow and not worry about UPS anymore… My grid is stable enough and I know not to try and print anything during a storm. Still glad I bought the EcoFlow as a backup option for emergencies though.
I used APC SmartUPS 750 XL for my smaller bedslinger printers.
But from experience here in Germany the mains outages are quite rare.
So I’m currently getting rid of that extra bit of security.
Unfortunately my big APC UPS 3000 is already gone, so I cannot test mains off during heatup of the H2D. But from other scenarios I tested, I bet it would keep up with that.
Excellent. I bought a Cyberpower 1500 watt and of course it overloaded and shutdown even though it was just a little over 1500. I just need it to cover power flickers so I don’t wake up to power drop and a cold printer that has released my high temp projects from the plate. I print mostly in ABS-GF and Nylons so having the backup helps during the summer when conditioners tend to power flicker the neighborhood.
It would last much longer than that, if it’s always floating at 60-80% range then it would essentially last god knows how long :p. I bet other parts would fail before the actuall battery killing charging/discharging process.
I did quite a few UPS installations for banks and insurance companies back in the day, including their ongoing service.
Some things to consider >
Rated power for the UPS should always be at least 15% above the max of what the connected device requires.
Power factor ratings - while not THAT important with our switchmode power supplies some UPS system have different values for purely resistive loads and loads going into the inductive or capacitive region.
RUN TIME REQUIRED - this is often totally overlooked…
How long the UPS can run mainly depends on the battery size but also on how well it can deal with the heat.
An awful lot of UPS systems for computer use and not meant to keep a computer or server powered, just to provide power long enough to allow the computer or server to do a secure shutdown.
Usually the time available is well under 15 minutes for smaller systems.
How to get an oversized UPS for far less money 
Check the usual marketplaces but also don’t be shy to call some local computer service companies, preferably those dealing with volume customers.
Quite often you can score old UPS system FOR FREE.
Simply because the needs in terms of connectivity and age of the batteries won’t justify to refurbish them.
Grab a bulky 3000W server UPS system and replace the vintage batteries with new ones.
Gives you a good reserve power and since the printer uses far less than what the UPS is rated for you CAN install much larger batteries.
I converted an old 750W UPS to run on 2 salvaged truck batteries I got free out of a wreck.
Just to keep the lights running while I was living in an area where power failures where frequent and long lasting.
With mainly LED lights everywhere this little thing on big batteries was happy to run almost 2 days before the battery voltage was too low…
I currently have a webcam recording the display of the EcoFlow while printing. Had another instance tonight where it turned off mid print.
The printer while warmed up and running never peaks over 350 and is mostly under 90 watts.
Something is definitely wrong with mine - and in the interest of being able to recommend the unit or not - I’ll keep this thread updated.
When it trips again I’ll share the video and I’ll also share how EcoFlow handles it.
Nothing is perfect, the real test will be to see if EcoFlow stands behind their product or not.
Their initial response to me seems to accuse me of using more than 1800 watts causing it to power down which certainly isn’t the case on a fully warmed up H2D printing PLA at 220 on a 55C print bed in a room that’s 20C.
Those cyber power 1500VA UPS’s are only rated for 1000w.
No this one is 1500 watts. Works fine until you start the heat bed up for a ABS/ASA print. Then it goes into alarm and if it is too long it shuts down from overload. That is why being able to select to say don’t go past a 1000 watts would be nice. I wanted to have 2 H2D’s but that isn’t on the table in a condo office since I have limited breaker options. PR1500LCD - Smart App Sinewave UPS Series - Product Details, Specs, Downloads | CyberPower
Ahhh, the bigger one. It definitely would be nice to limit the power draw. Even if it’s only 200w. That would put it back into the safe zone for this ups and 15a circuits in general.
I’ve been eyeballing this one, Amazon.com: CyberPower PR2200LCD Smart App Sinewave UPS System, 2200VA/1980W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Tower but I can’t bring myself to drop that amount of money lol. My EcoFlow has nearly the same rating and with the extra battery will actually support printing for multiple hours if the power did go out. I did a 20+ hour print not long ago and the EcoFlow with the extra battery supported it for about 9.5 hours before it had to switch back to grid power. I have a few solar panels coming in this week so I’m hoping to have my H2D setup off grid completely soon. Then I won’t have to worry about the power draw.
I was sold on the EcoFlow—might even get the larger one for whole-house backup. For $1100, the EF3+ with an extra battery is a solid deal today. The H2D only briefly spikes above 1500 watts, and mine only does that for about a minute, which is just long enough to trigger my CyberPower’s shutdown. Also, there’s no way to silence the alarm, even after turning it off in settings.
The EcoFlow should work fine as a UPS for the H2D, which draws around 1600 watts. Its 1800-watt limit is usually enough, and while some users push it higher, that may not work consistently with the H2D. There’s a lot of misinformation out there, but staying plugged in won’t hurt it. You can limit the input power—set it to 100 watts and let it slow charge. Let’s be honest, most of us won’t still be using these in 10 years when portable fusion cells are the norm.
Most high-wattage CyberPower and APC units (1980 watts and up) need a 20-amp breaker—common in kitchens. Just check for a “20” on the breaker and look for a T-slot outlet (horizontal + vertical). The APC 2200VA, like this one, uses a 5-20P plug, though some versions come with a 5-15P. Some CyberPower units use a NEMA L5-30P, which needs a 30-amp breaker—not common at home but found in labs or garages.
I bought my 1500-watt CyberPower refurbished on eBay for $400 with batteries. You can also find used APC units without batteries and get replacements at Batteries Plus. It might run a bit more, but it’s worth it.
If you don’t want to install new breakers, just run a 10-gauge, 20-amp-rated extension cord to the room. I have them all over the house for mining. My wife even put Post-it notes next to certain outlets so she doesn’t accidentally trip a breaker.