Friends I’ll put this challenge out to help resolve my print. I’m really pushing the scale of the print and bed size. The print was warping at the 3 corners and lifting off the plate. All were with .6 nozzle and PLA Bambu Matte Filament (new). PEI Gold Textured Plate. Bed Leveled and Auto Flow Cal.
1st attempt. Corners lifted off Bed
Standard Settings.
2 walls
Nozzle 220c Bed 65c
Evidence of corners lifting mid print.
Infill Rectilinear 15%
2nd attempt.
Wash Bed, Scrub Green Pad, Bambu Glue.
Nozzle 220 Bed Lowered to 60c
Cooling
Aux OFF
First 3 layers no cooling
Min Fan 60
Max Fan 40
Fan Speed for Overhangs 80%
Infill Rectilinear 15%
Mouse Ears on Corners 0 offset
**Improvement but still slight lifting.
3rd Attempt
Wash Bed, Scrub Green Pad, Bambu Glue.
Nozzle 215 Bed 50c (1st Layer 220 Bed 65)
Cooling
Aux OFF
First 3 layers no cooling
Min Fan 60
Max Fan 40
Fan Speed for Overhangs 80%
Mouse Ears on Corners 0 offset
Infill Gyroid 15%
** No lifting of print on Bed. I thought it was perfect but then noticed the inner corner actually lifted the Magnetic Steel Plate off the Bed. Outer corners were fine
So just the inner corner still has warping.So I solved Print Adhesion but not warpage.
Am I just pushing the scale and hieght too much for this open sided printer ?.
Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I did another part print which was basically the whole bed and about 3/8” in Height . Absolutely perfect. So the challenge I think is with the Height and uncontrolled environment.
Three things come to mind:
- With a 0.6 nozzle, what layer height are you using? A lower layer height can reduce warping and curling.
- What is the ambient temperature? Warping and curling are directly related by the CTE, nozzle temp and build area temp. Increasing the build area temp can help. Enclosure, tent, cranking up the heating,…
- Please cover the basics first. Curling and warping are some of the most visible effects of
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.3 layer height. Room is comfortable in my living room, no open windows or drafts. I think and enclosure is a good option. Without the enclosure I was approaching it with a less heat approach to reduce the DTE (Heat variance ?) from the bed to top of print.
I’m also thinking that because the print is so close to edge of plate the lifting of the magnetic plate is much easier and nearly vertical. I may try to clamp the plate to the bed in that corner. I think the cooling part fan is directing a constant “draft” with ambient air down the face of the walls essentially cooling and shrinking to fast. I wonder if a print like this could print with no cooling at all due to the long perimeter paths.
That’s a good idea to dry the new filament as protocol before such a challenging print. I got 4 new rolls coming today 
I think you may actually be OK with drying the filament and (maybe) going back to the .4 nozzle.
In my experience, speed on the Bambu’s is primarily dependant on the melting chamber rather than the nozzle size. And that seems to be identical across the nozzle sizes. I am not the only one having seen no significant total print time benefit with a larger nozzle. My experience, and most similar posts I remember, are with a P/X series though.
Once dryed, I’d just give it a go with defaults. If warping is still a problem then, clamping may help. I have however seen a post recently where clamping unfortunately only change the bed lift from the edge (U-shape) to an area closer to the part (M-shape).
Fixing a quick enclosure (could be as simple as a large cardboard box) or making it nice and cozy in the room is probably the most reliable if it is really needed.
I would not recommend lowering the nozzle temp though as layer adhesion can quickly become an issue.
Since you have overhangs, I’d probably also keep the fans as is. I experimented a lot with fans for PETG Basic and found it to be a lot of work. In particular since there’s another approach you can take if needed:
- Warping/Curling is not only about the pure temp differences. It is also dependent on the amount of energy. More energy per unit time => More heat in the layer (and the layer below being reinjected!) => More warping.
=> So you can reduce warping by reducing speed and layer height. Since both act on the volume, these settings can have a big beneficial impact on warping.
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thanks for feedback. I think I will try the cardboard wrap and say 1/2 open top. I will also put some heavy duty binder clips on suspect corner of plate. I feel it’s very close to working.
I’ll try to continue with the .6 nozzle as I can get away with 2 walls. The difference in time is substantial on this print
.6 Nozzle = 6hr 22 min
.4 Nozzle = 10hr 24min
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Personally I would try the cardboard enclosure if this is like a one time thing, if it was like 27 of them then maybe I wouldn’t try this on the A1. And instead look into an enclosed printer.
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I had warpping issues as well with some of my parts. I believe one of the isssues was that I was near a furnance duct and the draft was causing warping. I wound up buying two different storage containers to creat an enclouser. I did cut out the top and put a furnance filter there to help reduce the smell and so that heat could still rise out of the enclouser.
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I mean thats cool but is against bambu recommendation of putting the a1 in an actual enclosure. Several people have reported it does suffer from heat creep in an enclosure but if it’s intermittent, sure it may work fine.
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I totally know what you mean. Its not fully encloused. Heat rises to the top and there is a hole cut out to match the size of the furnance filter (16x20). Its desinged that the heat won’t build up inside.
You’re right it probably doesn’t build up much heat in that configuration. Just basically prevents drafts.
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And also to help reduce the smell. My house doesn’t have a fresh air exchange unit it so when I came home sometimes I could smell the PLA sometimes. The wood color PLA from Elegoo is especially strong and I did notice a smell reduction with the furnance filter. I am looking into getting a carbon filter of some kind.
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definitely not a frequent print. I brought some cardboard home today :).
very cool. Thank you. Looks like just enough to keep a nice ambient draft free environment. My theory at moment on the open enclosure and my tall print is that when the prints get closer to mid to top of print the cooling fan actually pushes a blanket of air down the wall cause irregular cooling. The heat from the bed is doing nothing other then adhesion. The room air coming into the intake of the fan is actually the rooms air which is cooler naturally. Your enclosure would result in a slightly warmer air being circulated and slowing down the cooling.
Yes, I think blue_giant thing could work for you without issue
Curious with the enclosure did you make any setting changes due to this ?.
@user_4272229241 you do have a good point. @flint723 mentioned heat creap so I looked it up. I did some temperature reading inside with the furnance filter on and it did get up to 34 Celcius at the top. I am now leaving the filter off. With the filter off the containers should still keep the down draft from shifting the temperature to much.
I haven’t had to change any settings. Though Yesterday I did have an issue with warping ( PLA ) on a object that had a large flat bottom surface and that was even with brim. Going back to using glue sticks again and I am going to trying to lower the bed temp as well. I am going try your suggestion as well of having no cooling for the first 3 layers @user_4272229241
I am mostly using Elegoo filemant and found a great profile on the form here yesterday for the Elegoo High Flow PETG. I do believe it made a difference.
oh wow that’s a very similar print. I’ve been getting really close with some info from many sources. PLA in theory doesn’t need any heated bed at all. It’s mostly heated to give good adhesion to the first layer. You can do no cooling for 3 layers with 65c bed first layer and reduce bed to 50-55 after 1st layer. I did 50c. I used Bambu liquid glue with zero release from plate
Heat can cause a lot of the issues. The enclose might just do enough to regulate an even temperature and slow down overall cooling. With the reduced bed temperature you may get to keep your filter on and with a little luck solve the warping too :), Keep me posted.
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I had similar problems with warping but with my Prusa MK3s+ with PLA prints. It is quite interesting how small drafts in a room can make such a difference with prints. In my case, I have located my Prusa and now my P1S in the basement of my house. In the basement I only have about 12°C in Winter and the printer is in front of a window, 3m left of the printer I have a door. What helped me with warping was increasing the bed temperatur a bit.
It is also really interesting that now with my P1S in the same room, when the front door is open a bit (recommended for PLA prints) I had some warping also with PLA on bigger parts on the front corners near the door. I think those temperatur changes from the inside of the printer towards the front door/room, was enough to cool down the PLA a bit faster and increase warping.
I can also suggest the CryoGrip plate, this also helped me.
not sure if someone said this, or if you already tried it. on my bigger prints i always use a full brim with the default width etc. it stopped 99 % of my warping. if anyone has ever tried to print the v8 ice chest v1 cover they will know that a brim is required for a usable print.
Hi, yes Brims are great. On my particular print was adhesion was 100% and did not release from print bed. It was the magnetic plate that lifted in the corner from shrinkage.
