I actually had the complete opposite experience:
If you treat this like any other plate you will be disappointed…
PEZ/PolyUrea (Specifically FROSTBITE) is best build plate for PLA & PETG, feel free to fight me:
Glacier is just a hybrid PEI sheet.
NOT SPONSORED!
Myths: Large parts are hard to remove. I have used almost the entire build plate and had no problems removing my parts, as they just peel or pop right off when bending the build plate after cooling with a satisfying sound. Most of the “marks” are not permanant and wash off with soap and water. Small parts with less than 3 layers are about 10% harder to remove(which makes them 30% more annoying). Follow my * for information to make this happen.
PROS:
0.) It takes 2 minutes off of the print start time, the prints cool in like 3 minutes.
1.) It almost halves the electricity use even in an enclosed printer
2.) The light color makes a great contrast for seeing your prints better
3.) Rooms don’t heat up as much.
4.) Less susceptible (but not immune) to your greasy finger oil, still hold the plates on the side
CONS:
0.) It smells like a blow up pool toy for the first few uses. Its very faint, and after 2 or 3 prints it fades.
1.) It is less durable than PEI, so don’t crash the tool head in it
2.) Thin parts (less than 3 layers in Z direction) may be a hassle to remove. This includes the test/purge lines and Brims. Plastic scrapers, or a careful fingernail is all that is required to remove. No need to use a brim, and in this case it will be annoying to remove.
3.) They are only for Bambu X1C, P!P/P1S and A1 biggy printers. (The blue plates)
You can get grey ones from for SV08(I have it and its amazing) or 235X235 printers(Think Ender3 clones), K1/Max Prusas/A1 mini and a few others FLEX DIPPED PLATES – SLICEWORX
or AliExpress/Ebay. Also Generic Bambu ones are availible on Amazon but I recommend the BIQU Frostbite one if you can(because of the high contrast)
*Notes for less frustration:
0.) No Glue or sprays, give the sticks to your kids, and the hairspray to your grandma.
1.) Coming form a IPA loving guy…Do not use IPA, just a small amount of soap, and water. IPA will make it stick to parts more, causing frustration,
2.) PETG and PLA only!!! 40c for PLA and 60c for PETG. if you go 65c with PLA it will print, but you will remove the coating with the part(if you can even remove the part)
3.) ABS is possible with this chemistry, but ASA is not. The reason why they don’t recommend ABS, is because some filament manufacturers blend ASA with ABS, and will still call it ASA or ABS.
5.) No brims are needed and they will be annoying to remove. Only use a plastic scraper or fingernail to remove the test/purge lines or thin (in z direction) models.
6.) Throw away your metal scraper. It is not as durable as PEI to your scraper, it won’t last long.