So my blue 7 later low energy Bigtreetech /Biqu showed up and it’s really adhesive. To the point of being a bit ridiculous.
The newer standard Bambu Labs PEI plate works great, I have a bunch of different plates with different patterns.
This sticks to the point of leaving marks on it.
Just FYI, save your money
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BigTreeTech, no surprise. I have to wonder what it is that’s on that plate, and I didn’t have confidence that it’d last.
I’m enjoying the Carbon Fiber plate from Wham Bam. So far so good. I’m not willing to rant or rave over it yet but it’s been good so far with PLA and ABS.
Wondering how will it do with other types of filament.
In their usual fashion the gave out most of that info in a livestream that not everyone would’ve wanted to watch. On facebook they just mentioned the branch would work with an AMS lite directly attached, but the longer 6 pin cord isn’t available yet and so you can’t connect an AMS unless you want to stack it right on top of each other.
Of course this is on the ad, if you look for it.
They showed that it worked with PLA, PETG, TPU. It would stand to reason it’d work with ABS etc, but it is BTT so who knows. Quality for them is like throwing darts, you may be way off, you may win.
edit: There are two plates. Frostbite (Textured)is PLA and PETG only. Glacier (Smooth) is those plus engineering filaments. They use an index I can’t find anywhere else to rate the “grip”. Grip Strenght Indicator…think this is totally made up marketing bs.
I bet the smooth one would work better than this one as I have no idea wtf is in it to make getting prints off and leaving artifacts.
Either way the newer Bambu Labs PEI plate adhesiveness is just fine, maybe a brim depending.
I have lots of 3rd party smooth plates with no issues and no adhesive added.
I finally pulled the trigger on the carbon fiber plate, it’s really expensive. Hopefully, it’s good.
Let us know how it works.
Have to trued lowering temp? You may find that it sticks at a lower temp
Best plates I’ve used.
Wham Bam Carbon. Some adhesive needed, great for everything. Smooth finish.
Wham Bam Painted Ultem. PLA loves this plate, as does everything BUT PETG.
Bambu Labs Smooth PEI. Old faithful.
I actually had the complete opposite experience:
If you treat this like any other plate you will be disappointed…
PEZ/PolyUrea (Specifically FROSTBITE) is best build plate for PLA & PETG, feel free to fight me:
Glacier is just a hybrid PEI sheet.
NOT SPONSORED!
Myths: Large parts are hard to remove. I have used almost the entire build plate and had no problems removing my parts, as they just peel or pop right off when bending the build plate after cooling with a satisfying sound. Most of the “marks” are not permanant and wash off with soap and water. Small parts with less than 3 layers are about 10% harder to remove(which makes them 30% more annoying). Follow my * for information to make this happen.
PROS:
0.) It takes 2 minutes off of the print start time, the prints cool in like 3 minutes.
1.) It almost halves the electricity use even in an enclosed printer
2.) The light color makes a great contrast for seeing your prints better
3.) Rooms don’t heat up as much.
4.) Less susceptible (but not immune) to your greasy finger oil, still hold the plates on the side
CONS:
0.) It smells like a blow up pool toy for the first few uses. Its very faint, and after 2 or 3 prints it fades.
1.) It is less durable than PEI, so don’t crash the tool head in it
2.) Thin parts (less than 3 layers in Z direction) may be a hassle to remove. This includes the test/purge lines and Brims. Plastic scrapers, or a careful fingernail is all that is required to remove. No need to use a brim, and in this case it will be annoying to remove.
3.) They are only for Bambu X1C, P!P/P1S and A1 biggy printers. (The blue plates)
You can get grey ones from for SV08(I have it and its amazing) or 235X235 printers(Think Ender3 clones), K1/Max Prusas/A1 mini and a few others FLEX DIPPED PLATES – SLICEWORX
or AliExpress/Ebay. Also Generic Bambu ones are availible on Amazon but I recommend the BIQU Frostbite one if you can(because of the high contrast)
*Notes for less frustration:
0.) No Glue or sprays, give the sticks to your kids, and the hairspray to your grandma.
1.) Coming form a IPA loving guy…Do not use IPA, just a small amount of soap, and water. IPA will make it stick to parts more, causing frustration,
2.) PETG and PLA only!!! 40c for PLA and 60c for PETG. if you go 65c with PLA it will print, but you will remove the coating with the part(if you can even remove the part)
3.) ABS is possible with this chemistry, but ASA is not. The reason why they don’t recommend ABS, is because some filament manufacturers blend ASA with ABS, and will still call it ASA or ABS.
5.) No brims are needed and they will be annoying to remove. Only use a plastic scraper or fingernail to remove the test/purge lines or thin (in z direction) models.
6.) Throw away your metal scraper. It is not as durable as PEI to your scraper, it won’t last long.
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How do you get the frostbite cry biqu plate to work with Bambu studio/handy using PETG?
as soon as I try to print PETG with the coolplate selected it says filament mismatch and I’m stuck :S
Turn off your LiDAR and make a profile with the temps set for the plate.
I haven’t had issues with my P1S or A1 besides it being too sticky, since I didn’t adjust the temps.
You can also edit the print temp as a new “filament” and just set the bed temp to 60c for PETG. Tape on the QR code works well if you don’t want to turn off lidar.
What type of plate do you select to print PETG on the cryo frostbite plate while using the altered filament profile?
It is an excellent plate unless you need to print on the whole bed with PETG
I’ve had their previous cryo plate, which I stopped using after the same issue, and I hoped this new “pro” one would not have this problem. Somehow, it gets the whole plate to warp and have less magnetic grip on the bed
i am printing on the cryogrip plate and i have 5 pieces filling the entire plate. I have noticed toward the middle of the plate the last layer continues to come out horrible. I have tightened the hot end screws as that was what i thought it was because the screws were lose. Im wondering if its the plate itself, so now i went back to my bbl textured plate and see if the problem continues. If not then it is indeed the plate
I have the pla/petg textured. I have had this problem in the pic that inincluded on every print since switching the plate. Its a 3.5 hour print and i went back to the bambulab with brim. Lets see ifnproblem persists. I will follow up. I love the adhesion of the plate. No brim is awesome without glue. The prime tower is a bit of a pain to get off though. I forgot to mention that i did clean plate with soap and warm water, ran a flow calibration and bed level before the last lrint and ended with same result
What plate type did you have selected for your prints?
The Glacier BTT plate not the textured PLA/PETG Cryogrip Pro it’s the other option and for all filaments.
The textured one isn’t worth the effort.
Update:
Bbl textured plate had a small portion of 1 of 5 pieces have a similiar finish but the other 4 were good. Im going to mess with orientation but i think the plate was apart of the problem