What kind of PTFE Bowden tube connector connects to the rubber tube on the inside of the back cover of the p1s? It connects the rubber tube the filament feeds through to the PTFE tube that goes to the extruder. I broke mine and need a replacement connector. It has a blue clip you pull off it. I’m thinking of just putting a short piece of tuning through the rubber thing and then using a regular coupler between it and the tube going to the extruder
Welcome to the community.
The part in question is an industry standard pneumatic tube connector used in refrigeration, plumbing etc.
The blue ring is a retaining clip that keeps the clamp from disengaging. It is very useful and important to hold onto.
Although you can buy these anywhere, Bambu sells a double sided version that is quite nice that I’ve not been able to find anywhere else at this price. I picked up six of them the last time I had an order for Bambu so I didn’t have to pay shipping, otherwise, Amazon is cheaper.
What makes this nice is that it slips on in either direction-something you won’t value until you attempt to thread a PTFE tube from the inside.
These things are quite ubiquitous. Most plumbing supply houses would have them in stock. However, here is a search on Amazon that will also point you in the right direction.
Thanks for the info. I can’t find one like the one that broke so I’ll try the one you showed.
Any idea why this is even needed?
It’s not very easy to attached it to the rubber tube the filament feeds through. I’m not even sure if mine was ever attached. I’m trying to figure out why the Bowden tube just can’t feed through the rubber tube to the back of the case. I’m thinking it’s just to protect it from the scraping on the case. I pushed the Bowden tube through the rubber tube in the case to the end in back of the case and the filament feeds fine through it…Wish I knew why that pneumatic connection in my picture is even needed…
I can say this, try it without and you will quickly find out just how necessary it is. 
The two connectors, one on each side, ensure that the tugging along the feed path does not loosen the PTFE tube. Each connector locks the tube in place to prevent movement. If you don’t have it, I can promise you that it is a pain in the ass as the PTFE tube will fall out of place. Although not exactly a crisis, it will ruin a print by causing uneven filament flow. Then you’ll be back here asking why you have these awful layer lines in your print. 
I’m in total agreement with you. The Bambu PTFE tube design sucks from beginning to end. I’ve had to make a number of modifications to my setup and there are many more out there by others.
How do you know when something isn’t designed right? Answer: When someone comes up with a fix for it.
I too was dissatisfied with the rubber grommet. Bambu made the gripping material too shallow for the function it was intended for which causes it to slip out.
Fortunately, others had this problem and solved it. Here is a version that solves the rubber grommet issue. It should be printed in PETG or ASA so it does not warp under heat. Also, print with 100% wall looks for rigidity.
The one thing one may have to do if you are adapting it to a P1P is you may have to drill a hole for a 4th screw in the back that is blocked with the retrofitted back plate kit from the P1S. That may be specific to my use-case because when I got the P1P, there was no enclosed version as the P1P came out later.
Here’ a couple of photos that I took from my rig. You can see that I added the PTFE connectors on either side to ensure that the tube didn’t move. If you don’t want to bother with the connectors, you can experiment with printing the part with tighter X-Y compensation and rely on a friction fit, which I did the first try but I found that that was not foolproof, this version is. Also, the use of connectors makes maintenance a cinch, as tubes wear, I can replace them in minutes with no tools. Note the blue clip in this example to ensure that the ring “locks”. These particular connectors I got from Amazon.
Thanks…I have p1s not a p1p…the problem on the p1s is that this piece you printed is rubber on a p1s…
The hard plastic one you printed would be way better… The rubber one is pressed in not screwed in, would I be able to screw that one into my p1s?
Could you send me a link to the 2 pneumatic couplers you used. I like the way you did it
P1S and P1P is practically the same, except for aux fan and the enclosure.
Those couplers are acting as a stoppage so that the PTFE tube cannot slide in and out.
If your PTFE tube brakes right there, just buy longer PTFE tube and replate it.
Any PTFE tube that close to OD4 and ID2.5 should work. Don’t buy OD4 ID2, as it adds friction to the filament pathway.
BTW, if you are looking for the quick-fit connector, just go searching for PTFE tube coupler on Aliexpress or other platforms.
Any of those will work, as a stoppage of course. Just pick the one that let the tube go through like PC4-01 or PC4-M6. Even a low profile like this works as well
That part is called PTFE grommet. It is universal to both the P1 and X1 series.
It is only sold as part of the cable chain kit.
The answer is yes.
The P1P did not have external plates and the backplate was only half-height, it did not reach to the top of the chassis.
However, Bambu offered an upgrade kit which was all the P1S skins that one was supposed to be able to apply to the P1P. I ordered only the backplate as I had already printed the pegboard skin for the P1P and I really like it.
However, the workmanship on the backplate was very slipshod. The holes did not align correctly to my P1P. The “hole” that I stated I needed to drill may not have been intentionally left out. I can say that they are definitely present on the P1 frame but did not pass through the P1 backplate. Intentional or oversight? You be the judge.
Here is the link to the P1P upgrade kit which includes the metal backplate. https://us.store.bambulab.com/collections/upgrade-parts/products/p1p-enclosure-kit
Here is a zoomed in area of where the missing hole should have been.
And to illustrate how much of an oversite I believe this was, here is a page out of the P1P upgrade skins doc that shows that the frame as originally designed indeed has the holes. So I only had to drill through the steel plate not the frame. My reasons for applying the nut was so that it was more solid but that is optional.
Here’s the link but don’t get hung up on the specific item I bought, that’s a sure-fire way to overpay and get the wrong product. Why do I say that, because in my experience, many of these Amazon sellers will swap out their ASIN listings at random. This is a known scam because it allows them to keep the ratings on the previous product while offering something completely unrelated. If anyone comes across this, as a civic-minded service, they should report that ad, Amazon will take it down.
So what should you do instead.? Buy on the basis of the specification. In this case, the standard Bowden Tube used in 1.75mm filament is 4mm OD.
These were the first one’s I purchased.:
However, they were not available the second time around when I was building some dry boxes so I went with this version. I didn’t pay attention and saw that it was only $9. Great deal right? Except that I didn’t read the fine print. these were PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 fittings. At the time I didn’t comprehend that there was a difference. After receiving them and using half, my 30day return window closed before I realized my mistake and the rest were a waste of money.
The lesson that was reinforced here was that if I take the time to educate myself as a buyer, I can buy the actual spec parts rather than get hung up on the brand or buzzword such as “Made for 3D Printers”
Side note
In doing my search on Amazon, I found that this search term reveals most of the correct parts. Amazon.com : PC4 bowden tube connector But you have to be careful to make sure because there are some listings that mix connector styles.
And here’s another gem. Remember I said don’t lose that blue clip. Well, apparently someone sells those too. 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7QBHN9B/
