PROBLEM SOLVED!!! 
My young assistent came to my workshop. I told him the whole story I described in my first post. He immediately said āI believe it must have been the K settingsā. I had already changed these to 0.020 like you guys said. We couldnāt find anything else so we did a test print. And hurray! Out came a perfectly smooth print. So ā¦ donāt mess with the K settings like I did 
Thanks for all your input.
Grtz Theo
You really need to start reading the information about the printer. The cool plate is not meant to be used with ASA. With the cool plate it is also recommended to use glue stick. Read the recommended settings for each bed and each filament and keep the bed clean. Some of the recommended filaments are shown printed on the bed itself.
You also need to slow down, how did you not realize that there was one of the silica containers under the bed? Keep the inside of the printer tidy.
By the sounds of things when you started getting a birdās nest and a failed print you just kept going? So the printer was still trying to print the failed items? If so then never do this, donāt let the printer just extrude into thin air, either stop the whole print or stop the failed items. If there is a big birds nest it can start melting up into the hot end, making a mess and potentially damaging it, if a birds nest starts forming then fix it.
Also I would recommend sticking to PLA for now, get used to using that, the correct beds and glues to use, the correct settings, etc and then move onto other filaments.
It seems to me that you are rushing into this, take your time and read all the information about beds and filaments.
Edit: you have just ordered a third party hot end to install too? Just slow down, get used to the printer and get it working properly first before you go tinkering with it.
Also consider that a third party hot end could affect your warranty if it causes damage, so make sure the printer is fine first.
You are right. I am a decades long member of the āFools Rush Inā club. However I am in a bit of a hurry to get working with ASA because I have a couple of designs that I want to start selling, that are meant for outside use.
I need to start making some money. Last year I was diagnosed with and treated for bone marrow cancer. I had a small sail making business but due to my illness I had to give that up because I canāt fysically do that anymore. So I had to find a new challenge both to keep myself occupied and in an effort to generate some income.
Apart from learning all about the printer I needed to learn CAD design from scratch. Luckily I am a fast learner. But when in a hurry one tends to cut corners.
Thanks for your advise though. I will do some more studying. By the way, using the cold plate with PLA is something I picked up from a YouTube video from someone who had trouble making ASA stick. The only thing I forgot was to use glue which is in backorder.
Did you update firmware in between things being great and horrible? My printing is terrible each time I try to go up to 1.05.02 and went back to normal when I reverted.
My printer runs on 1.05.02. Printing now and sofar it is looking good (again). I donāt know if I updated recently. It did update when I first started it up when I took it out of the box a couple of weeks ago.
1.05.02 has been around since end of January 2024 and there is no official update that is more recent, therefore you had 1.05.02 from the beginning unless you didnāt update your P1S when you initially set it up 
I think itās fine, personally, to learn by moving fast. When you break print quality, the challenge to recover will teach you more in a week than playing it safe does for months. Not everyone can benefit from this self imposed suffering. But you seem like you were born in it. Molded by it. So carry on IMHO.
With one caveat, try to avoid catastrophe with a safe-to-print checklist. Leaving something under the bed is super easy to do. Itās not worth the repair cost/time if you can avoid it.
Leaving something under the bed was the first time ā¦ and almost guaranteed the last
There are lots of really bad things that could have happened, however, have you done any cold pulls? It is possible that between the part coming loose, trying to cram/meld spaghetti string into your print and especially if you printed asa at pla temps, that your nozzle is merely clogged. I would imagine the sensors, especially since it gave an error code, would stop the machine before damage occurred.
I didnāt mean you have to put off using ASA for a long time, I meant to stick with PLA for now until you get your print issues sorted out. All materials behave a little differently, if you keep hopping between filaments whilst trying to correct issues it will be much harder to figure out what is wrong.
As for glue, the glue sticks from bambu are just PVA glue, just normal glue sticks, you can get them pretty much anywhere. The liquid glue is a bit different but it canāt be used for as many filaments.
What filament are you using? If itās a generic filament (not Bambu) make sure your filament setting are for generic, if itās Bambu filament the you need to calibrate your machine in the slicer as the z offset look off. But if you have the mm/2 to high for the filament it will look the same also, in filament settings before you slice click neck to the filament when you have the filament type you want and a box will come up in middles of screen, scroll to bottom and try lowering the number. If itās generic PLA it should be 12 or below unless you have a high flow nozzle (revo or E3D) if itās Bambu filament then below 18. How was the first layer going down?
Judging by the comments some of you may have missed that my problem is solved.
The Issue was the K settings. Now everything is working fine again. Probably next week I will start fiddling with Polymaker ASA again. Does anyone know anything about the K settings for this filament?
Try the Polymaker Discord channel and see if someone there can give a suggestion.
Looking back through this saga, I think the main problem was moisture in the filament, which can be an issue with any filament, even right out of the vacuum bag. PLA is slower to absorb moisture but it also is affected by high humidity levels.
As for the correct ASA K value, it is best to calibrate your filament on your printer. Filaments from different manufacturers with different colors can require different settings because they use different ingredients. OrcaSlicer has good tests for this, but there are many other models available to test for the best pressure advance setting.
That said, I currently have three colors of ASA from two manufacturers. Calibration tests with each showed they all work best on my printer with the default K value of 0.02.
Even though the problem is solved, here are some additional things to be aware of.
I have a P1S combo looks like you nozzle is damaged need replacing turn off the machine to do it if not could short out the board recommend doing a full collaboration that should short out any issues there is a build in ai camera you need enable the ai feature.