I have only had my P1S for a few weeks now. I am a total newbe, but learning fast. I have not been printing much because I wanted to master Freecad enough first to be able to draw and print a design that has been living in my head for a long time.
This first print (PLA) went beyond expectation. Exactly as I designed and with a perfectly smooth surface. Then I printed a small business sign (designed in Makerworld) for my son. Very nice although a little less smooth of a surface then on my first print. Next I printed an assembly of a holder for my Eufy cam, 4 inside spool silica gel containers, 2 rear silica containers for the AMS, a tool to undo the PTFE tube at the back of the printer and a Rod Sloth to clean the threaded rods of the printer.
That’s when the ■■■■ hit the fan. The rod sloth came loose of the bed and strings of filament started creating a birds nest. I did not know yet how to partially stop a print so I resorted to removing the partly printed Rod Sloth and the subsequent birds nests.
3 reasonably printed inside spool silica containers with lids and 1 failure (although the tops and bottoms had some weird stringing going on) and 2 failed AMS silica containers.
The failures were probably due to a lot of loose filament moving around at one time (before I started removing it) that got caught on the sharp points of the objects still being printed and tore them loose from the print bed. Then I learned how you can partially stop the print and did so for the parts that were creating havoc.
Next I tried to print a sign warning for my dog which you have to have in case the dog (a Dutch Shepherd) sinks his teeth into a burglar. This to prevent liability for the damage (seriously!). Before the print could start I got a warning that something was obstructing the bed. It turned out that the 1 failed silica container had fallen of the bed and ended up upright under the bed preventing the bed from descending all the way down. I removed the failed container and continued the print with 3 colors ASA this time. The AMS settings were not correct except for the black color in slot one of the AMS. I hadn’t quite figured this out yet and assumed if you picked the colors in the preparation fase everything was going to be hunky dory.
Puzzled by this mess I decided to switch back to PLA and print a couple of hinges I designed. Again a mess. No smooth surface in sight. No pictures of these.
Against better judgement I tried again with PLA and printed another hinge (different design) and a router template I made to route pockets for magnets in a project I am making. This time I had the AMS settings figured out (except for this Factor K thing).
1)clean the bed
2)dry the filament and keep it dry
3)load Orca slicer, and calibrate the filament using its test prints
The above generally solves most problems
a fingerprint can prevent adhesion, use what they call ‘dish soap’ to clean the build plate
filament, even when fresh out the sealed bag, is not necessarily dry enough
3)the presets in slicers are not always correct, never mind the specific tolerances in manufacture of your printer, and the local environment
Although I do not think adhesion is the issue. Sign I printed in ASA on the cold plate could hardly be released from the bed. I had to use a putty knife to get it off.
The prints in PLA after that printed on the standard pei plate (hinges and routing template) also nicely stuck to the plate and as far as I could see did not lift from the bed. I checked the video’s.
I was worried that the problem could be caused by the fact that the bed encountered and obstruction which redered it out of wack.
I will certainly dry the ASA. I just assembled the dryer I got. But I got the impression that PLA does not have a moisture issue. I also understood that the presets for (Bambu) PLA in Bambu Studio were quite good.
Were there any mods installed around this time? Maybe a PTFE guide on the tool head, or a Y-splitter on the back for filament?
I’m looking for mods that restrict the filament line and potentially cause under extrusion.
Its also odd that all of your filaments have a K number of 0.0. The default in the past was 0.020. However, they may be changing some of the settings, because I noticed one of my PLA’s was automatically changed to 0.00.
Thanks for you suggestion. I can’t remember if did anything to the PTFE tube. I did want to print a Y splitter but decided against it because I had an issue with the design I had picked. I did fiddle around a bit at the back of the printer. I have understood from you and from video’s I watched that a problem could be caused by any obstruction the filament may encounter on it’s way to the hotend.
I’ll make a list of all the points I have to check.
If did change the K number by hand because there were different numbers and I have no clue what it does. Every slot has Bambu PLA at the moment so I will set the K back to 0.020.
Giving it some more thought. The failed orange objects can be attibuted to loose filament being flung around by the print head because the rod sloth cam loose. I have no explanation for the stange threads on the top an bottom of the silica containers. During the same session the cam holder - which was about as hight as the containers - came out perfectly. I did have some pieces of filament sticking out because of the loose filament moving around, but other than that it really is perfectly smooth and the camera fits like a glove.
So something must have happened just before, during or after my attempt to print the dog sign with ASA. One thing that happened just before was that the bed was obstructed by the failed container. Another thing was that the AMS settings were changed because I used polymaker ASA. I just did not understand yet how this change process worked (put in new filament press load etc. I changed the option “Polymaker ASA” by hand because the AMS can’t read a rifid on the spool.
Like I said in my previous post, I may have done something to the PTFE tube at the back of the printer but I am not sure.
AFter the obstruction of the bed and the failure of the first set of hinges I did do a calibration proces
Whenever you had a part coming loose during printing and afterwards have issue print quality:
Check that the nozzle/hot end is not bend as this can easily happen if the part that came loose jammed between another part and the nozzle. It can be difficult to identify a bend nozzle without removing the silicon sock and the hot end from the extruder.
Normally the bend happens in this area.
The changes to the non bambu lab materials without the RFID are done manually by yourself in the mobile app or in Bambu studio for what is in the AMS. You then need to make sure that the materials for your sliced models correspond to what it is in the assigned AMS slots.
And no it should not be K0.000 (0,000 for Europe )
Hi thanks for your suggestion. I have ordered a Panda Revo Hotend. The arrival has been delayed due to supply issues. I hope it will arrive this or next week. At that moment I will have to take apart the hotend anyway.
Thanks Panamon. While on the topic. I understand it has to be 0.020 for PLA. I take it that Studio gets this information through the Rifid in case of Bambu spools. Do other PLA brands get the same K value? And do other types of non Bambu filament get the same value? If not where do I find the appropriate K values?
to my knowledge, it is not getting it from the RFID. On the X1 series the K-value is determined via the automatic calibration but that is not the case on the P1.
Please make sure you have the correct machine selected in your slicer
hmmm don’t know if that’s a wise thing to do for …
No, its a decent setting for just about everything, but 0.020 isn’t perfect for all filament types and brands.
The K Factor value is a flow setting. Here is a Wiki entry that may help you. This looks to fit your issue on the flat blue print pretty closely. But note I think there is a typo in the Wiki. I think it says too high when it means too low. They say its rare to go larger than 0.010, then say its rare to go larger than 0.050. I think they mean you should need to go lower than 0.010 or higher than 0.050.
Lines not connected to walls
In the example below, the printed lines don’t connect with each other.
The most common problem which causes such print quality issues, where the printed lines are not touching with each other is caused by a K-factor which is incorrectly set to a very high value.
For Bambu Lab printers, the K-factor is calibrated using the Flow Dynamics Calibration available in Bambu Studio.
A very common mistake is to perform the calibration, and instead of inserting the correct value (ex: 0.025) the user inserts 0.25 which is ten times higher than expected.
Most common results for regular filaments give a K-factor value between 0.02 and 0.04 as long as the hotend is free from any partial clog, and the extruder is clean.
IMPORTANT: It is rare for the filament to require a K-factor larger than 0.05 and very rare to use a K factor larger than 0.1 If you have performed a Flow Dynamics Calibration, and the K-factor is larger than 0.04-0.05, we strongly recommendcleaning the extruderandthe hotendbefore performing the Flow Dynamics Calibration again.
The Pressure advance, aka K-value in Bambu studio is variable across different types of filament materials, however even within the same material types there can be variations and it even can vary slightly with color, lot, etc.
However these variations usually are on a smaller scale within the same brand and type and a once established/calibrated value can be used.
The basic K value that is used on the P1 is 0.02 and usually works ok across a wide variety of materials. Perfectionists might calibrate every spool they use, slackers like me which prefer to make parts instead of spending a large percentage of printer time on just calibrating and optimizing establish a base line K value and use it thereafter and won’t change it unless there is the need for it
you really should concentrate on your issue at hand.
Check that you nozzle is not bend
Make sure you have the correct machine set
Make sure you understand how to set non bambu labs materials in the ams and how to assign materials of the ams to your model in the slicer.
Absolutely ensure that your build plate is clean clean clean before each and every print. The Bambu Lab Textrued PEI Plate Clean Guide | Bambu Lab Wiki.
Set your K-value to 0.02 at the AMS material slot
hmmm don’t know if that’s a wise thing to do for …
but whatever rocks your boat
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About the Revo Hotend. I watched the video’s and I have a young assistent who will start his Masters in electro technics as soon as he has finished high school.
Ah don’t worry give it a little more time and you will have so many answers here that will have you replace and/or buy 50% of your 3d printer and spend 99% of the time calibrating/adjusting, …etc. and only 1% actually printing something that you can use
)
