Basically this is a storage container with overhangs / bridges as part of the hexagons. I am printing the whole thing at 95mm/s with slowing down for overhangs enabled
0mm/s - 10%,25%
50mm/s - 25%, 50%
15mm/s - 50%, 75%
10mm/s - 75%, 100%
Bridging is set to 30mm/s
Thick Bridges Disabled
Bridge Flow = 1
Bridge Direction = 0
Filament settings:
Part Cooling is always on
Force Cooling for overhangs and bridges is on
Cooling overhang threshold 50%
Fan Speed for overhangs 100%
Aux Fan - 70%
As you can see on the picture, it seems to be able to print the overhangs (dark blue lines) - but struggles with bridging (grey ish colour).
I haven’t tested it with specific speeds, but I tried to speed it up using built-in speeds (all the way up to Ludricious)
The bridges are maybe half an inch so I don’t get who people can print stupid long bridges
What is the magic formular here ? Printing in PLA using 0.6mm nozzle btw.
The thinner bridge (one in the background) is just one line thick and seems to be ok as it is probably supported by the overhangs that are one line on either side (segment is thinner in general).
Also is the way it prints bridges normal ? In those loops ?
I wish I could design - this is a downloaded stl but yea - thinking about it - why didn’t the author do that.
But I’d still be interested in a way to understand why bridging is so bad - from what I see people manage to print 120mm bridges and this is like a 10mm …
Yes, you can do long bridges. But some things can trigger the success or failure. Is there the top of the print? Because your issue is already noticeable in the lower overhang.
Can you share the model link so I can see it in my slicer?
Since the overhang speed seems to be working try that as your “Bridge” speed instead of the 30mm/s.
If you notice there are two colors in the simulation, a fuller brighter blue and a dull cyan blue. One is overhangs and the other is bridging. The overhangs in your print look pretty good, but the bridges have the inside falling directly out of them. So I’d first start with matching the speeds. If that doesn’t fix it check for the order in which those two features are printed. I’ve seen some try to print the inside first in mid air.
It looks like it might be your printing order. The dark blue overhang wall bridges print fine but the light blue internal bridge looks like it is printing in air? Ensure your print order under the Quality tab is inner/outer/infill. That will ensure the inner walls are printed before the bridge and give it something to hang on to. Otherwise your settings look reasonable. You might also try just turning the part cooling fan on 100% all the time.
@just4memike Yea that is my next attempt actually and it did look at some point it was printing mid air but it may also be because some lower layers already failed.
@azCubs76 Yea it does look like it is mid air. You can see it starts the bridge in the corner but yea that corner isn’t supported by anything
And yea when you look at my bullet points you can see the fan is already at 100% and setting is indeed set to inner/outer/infill/ but the order is about the walls though anyway isn’t it - so it wouldn’t apply
Another thought is try a 45 degree bridge direction. This will make a lot of the bridge much shorter. Only the middle of the bridge will be full length.
Don’t know yet. Still testing. Annoyingly I didn’t realise the layers on top of the 10% gyroid infill is considered bridging so first top layer on a 200x200 area takes …. A while. I know more in the morning. 8:30pm here and it’s another 11 odd hours so it will like take past my bed time until the first hexagon shows I think and to know if it works.
I hope it’s solved. But one tip for future issues: you can and should test into smaller parts to reduce time and spare material. You can either design it or use the Bambu Studio tool cut to get a smaller sample of the region where the issue occurs.
Nobody seems to have asked what kind of filament you are using. Looks kind of shiny to me, so I am guessing PETG. PETG is not the best at bridging. Just wondering.
