Broken after remove support and seam

[Bjoern]

Hi,

im a absolute beginner and got my first sculture almost finished.
I struggle with creating a whole after remove support. Is there a good setting to prevent this?

In addition I like to ask what’s the best setting for the seam?

Actually printed with PLA.

appreciate any hint!

[SimEyeSee]

Increase the walls and bottom surface layers and increase the infill. You can use a modifier to just increase the infill at the bottom part where the arms, head and shoulders are.

I love Modifiers!

Does anybody use modifiers in the Orca or Bambu slicer? I learned about them kind of by accident. I was printing a bambu plate holder and when I saw it printing the infill, I thought I was looking at support structures within the infill, later I realized that they weren’t supports, but were just slits to accommodate the part that sticks out on the plate where the nozzle cleans itself. But before I realized that, I wanted to figure out how to make supports within the infill so I could make str…

[Bjoern]

Thanks a lot for your reply and hints!
I tried it again with a modifier and more infill. Unfortunately, I got still issues. But I guess I used the wrong settings.

Actually

• I can’t remove the base at the arms correctly
• I got wholes in the arms, but in another place as before
• the left Leg got a gangrene
• I cant remove the support at the food correctly
• I feel stupid

[SimEyeSee]

I think the wrists and hands look like that because they are not supported. For the support on the other part of the forearms, you might need to use a thin sharp blade to get between the model and the support interface to pry off the support material. Once you start prying it, your should be able to pull the rest off.

[EnoTheThracian]

@Bjoern

I feel stupid

There’s absolutely no need to feel stupid. It is just a challenging print. And my own experiences with “break-away” support looked very similar.

I found two solutions for that:

1. More expensive and only for PLA: Replace the Bambu Support with a BVOH filament. I use Fiberlogy and am quite happy with that. Especially since their new rolls became AMS compatible. Take care about the Min/Max temp settings though which are reached during the filament change. They need to match the BVOH maximum to prevent clogging.
2. Cheaper and works vice-versa with different material pairings: Separate the support functions. On one hand, you want to stabilize the model during printing. This requires a strong bond. Therefore, you may want to use primitives in Bambu Studio/Orca to provide manual supports. At the elbows, the hair, the head and each foot as they appear to temporarily be islands. You’ll need to cut these “manual” supports away later but if the interface is limited (to 4-6 line widths for a pillar, 2 for a rib) it can be removed reasonably well with a sharp tool. For the overhang issue, you can then use PETG with a 0mm z-offset to give a much better surface finish which comes off nicely.