I went to replace my Build Plate sheet and found I could not take the old sheet off. It wasn’t an easy peal and stick as stated. By the time I got it off… I noticed most of the adhesive was still on the Build Plate and it did not want to come off.
I tried using soap and water.
I tried using alcohol.
Nothing would loosen it up.
Ultimately, I used Goo Gone and after soaking one side and using a metal spatula (one for 3D printing) I was able to slowely get all the goo up over the course of about two days.
I certainty contributed to this issue because I have been placing my Build Plates in the washing machine. Most of my are Build Plates are the traditional textured one that are not adhesive sheets. I just didn’t realize that could happen since I am new to using adhesive sheets.
I guess my question is…If anyone encountered this issue before, what did they use?
Albeit I’ve never tried to relaminate a build plate, I have a lot of experience delaminating materials off surfaces in my day job. Goo Gone or other citrus-based solvents are, of course, among the safest to use, but they aren’t very aggressive as you no doubt experienced. Another trick I often use is to also apply heat over time. Try letting the build plate warm up to 175F in the oven for a half hour before attempting to dissolve the material with citrus based remover. It will soften the glue and the material being removed.
When all else fails, my go-to solvent is Oops! from Sherwin-Williams paints. It is a cocktail of multiple compatible solvents, acetone being among them, so be warned that it can attack PEI. However, if you are stripping to bare metal, that doesn’t matter. It’s original purpose was to remove dried latex paint from surfaces like carpet. I guess that’s why they call it “Oops”.
The trick to dissolving anything, and I mean anything, is to find out what its chemical solvent is. PEI (Polyetherimide) film commonly uses 3M 468MP adhesive. If you go to the 3M website or email them, they will tell you to first try IPA or denatured alcohol, with acetone as a last resort due to its ability to damage many plastics.
Pre paint prep, wax and grease remover from any automotive store that sells refinishing products will work as a good adhesive remover.
As Olias says, heat up the plate to soften the glue, the sticker will come off much better, and quite possibly bring the majority of adhesive with it. At least it does on painted surfaces when using a heat gun.
That’s a new one for sure! I’m surprised they haven’t come out bent or ruined your washer.
Really have to recommend stopping that. Clothes detergents have all sorts of additives and if you aren’t using laundry soap you could be damaging seals and such in the washing machine. Don’t know that but materials incompatibilities are a real thing.
Sounds more likely but dishwashing detergents are pretty alkaline and even etch glass over repeated washings. No idea what that does to build plates. Plus, if it’s allowed to go into a dry cycle, temperatures are pretty high in a very humid environment.
That’s funny. Yes, I was talking about the dishwashing machine. I can bypass the dry cycle and simply get a good soak once it is as clean as i can get it. The water temp is still a bit high. My actual issue was I didn’t realize that there is only one side to a plate that has a removable sticker…
Thanks. My issue was that there is only one side of the build plate that is removeable. All the sticker sheets for replacement only line up on one side. I attempted…and succeeded in tearing off the sheet on the side that is not meant to be removed…I guess that is why it was so difficult to remove it. I tried the other side and it came off without issue. Both sides of the build plate were smooth so I though it I could replace both sides. I bought a bunch of sheets and printed the alignment tool. It wasn’t until I fully scrubbed the plate before I realized…there is only one side that is removeable.