I have been working on creating some rings which link together on top of each other.
I’ve gotten to the point in prototyping where they fit nicely when using a single filament (have used many different variants of Bambu PLA basic/matte).
However when it comes to printing a small emblem on these discs in colour, the layer at which the AMS kicks in, a bulge line appears and the base can separate from the plate slightly at the edges.
I have a feeling it’s something to do with the period of time when the filament is swapping over allowing the print to cool and warp slightly.
This is more pronounced when I try to print multiple at a time.
I’m very new to printing as I received the A1 as my first printer last week so apologies if this is a simple issue. (I definitely hope so!)
Most recent print done with only a single copy, slightly less curve in base.
It is 2am right now. So, I will leave it printing whilst I sleep, and report back if I experience the same.
I am purposely keeping:
Your infill type, although I always go with Gyroid as the default Grid is problematic.
Your colour flush choices
Your seem choice, I add scarf options these days as it tends to improve things for my sort of designs
I am purposely changing
The printer to P1S to rule things out (I may also print on an A1 mini depending on results)
The shade of blue, I have cyan on the printer and I can’t imagine colour is the issue as both your red and blue failed the same way.
The skirt, this isn’t used anymore and the wipe tower removes its need entirely from a logical perspective
I will only print around 50% of the blue portion as the error occurs before hand and there is no benefit in printing the full model to reproduce (or not) the error.
Have you cleaned your build plate? You may have something on it causing an adhesion issue, this can build up over time. Give the plate a good scrub with hot soapy water and even a spray and wipe with window cleaner after to see if this helps, also if you use ipa to wipe your plate only do this on a cold plate as it can dry to fast and leave residue.
I have given it a clean since with hot soapy water and a sponge (in between the red and the blue prints) but not with window cleaner or IPA.
I just ordered a spray bottle of IPA moments ago with some microfibre cloths so hopefully they can help also.
I have since made this on the bed just as an additional sanity test:
I printed the body and shields separately so that there was no need for AMS, and the base has come out fine once more.
There is also no bulge below the Icon slot, only slightly above where the internal shelf is.
They fit into each other nicely however I’m not a fan of how the inserted Icons look.
So the search continues!
Usually a good scrub with hot soapy water does the trick. Are there and drafts where you are printing? And In the filament settings is the bed set to stay on for the full print?
Edit. Sometimes I find grid infill can be a pain with warping but usually on bigger prints, you could try gyroid to see if it helps
Yeah I thought a draft could be the issue too, so I shut the windows and door during the print so that the room could become warmer also.
I’m not certain it made a significant difference sadly.
I’ll definitely give gyroid a go once I have finished with Malc’s Calibration Test in the hope that it fixes it!
So from reading your guide to solutions on the page it looks like I need to do a much better job at cleaning my plate I think?
I’m now a bit wary that I don’t want to use too much force whilst doing it.
Do you have any recommendations for how long I should clean it for and would a sponge be sufficient?
(maybe silly questions but hey, I may as well ask)
Not that it matters, but, there was an A1 specific profile next time you run the test. The cut out is for the enclosed printers, the P & X series. The A1 can print to all parts of the build-plate, that ‘missing’ corner isn’t missing in the A1 profile.
I use a soft sponge, one of those that soap up liquid and keep it inside rather than the typical scouring version.
I use warm water (not boiled), if boiled add equal from the tap.
Standard dish soap, they all seem to work fine.
My process
lay the build-plate on a clean towel, something that doesn’t shed, I use a large micro-fibre cloth.
have the warm water in something you can’t knock over, I use a drinks mug
drop some dish soap in and stir until it foams, it is the foam that does a lot of the work
Push the sponge into the mug and let it draw in the water
Run the sponge over the build-plate fully and over the edges
Start with directional movements, up-down from side to side and then swap to side to side from bottom to top
If you found any areas on the print test, work those in a circular motion with a bit more effort
Remember, it isn’t delicate, you are aiming for a good clean, but, you are not trying to remove the pattern (as my mum would saw if this was actual dishes)
Using the edges of the build-plate only, flip the build-plate over
Repeat the process
Using the edges of the build-plate only (tips of fingers on the edges), rinse under the tap to remove the foam
Place on a new dry clean towel
Using a piece of lint-free kitchen roll (most premium brands are good enough), soak up the main water that remains in the surface
Flip over and repeat
Using a different micro-fibre towel, dry the surface using the same cleaning pattern from above
Place the dry plate back on the printer using the tips of your fingers on the edges of the plate.
That seems like a lot, but, in reality it takes only a few minutes.
Perfect, those are the sort of instructions I love thanks a bunch.
Yeah I couldn’t figure out how to DL the specific A1 plate from the makerworld page.
It didn’t seem that intuitive to me, regardless of what I had selected at the top, when i hit Download it would always give me the same file.
I’m of course missing something simple but yeah, looks like this plate did the job either way!
Oh wow.
I just dragged the window to my center monitor and I can easily see the highlight now.
It was literally invisible on my second screen.
*By which I mean, even though I know it’s there now, there is no angle or level of squint I can change in order to see it.
Madness.
**contrast was at 100, is slightly visible now that it’s lower
