I was having problems with the camera s I tried to follow the instructions to gently remove it and see if everything was okay. it turns out that when you unhook the camera from its location the cable pulls out from the back and there is absolutely no slack so you can’t put it back together again. This also I need to come off to try to find out why there is no slack in the camera cable. I’ve been working on getting the site off but even though I pulled every screw they say it does not seem to separate in the front left. Help!
I did the same thing not while replacing the camera itself but the led which required camera removal. The side panel is held by obvious screws on top and at the rear but also 2 (or 3) screws at the front behind the door and 2 others at the bottom of the printer.
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Here’s the wiki article for the left hand side panel.
Which includes pictures of where all the screws are located.
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I had forgotten about all these inside screws + the auxiliary fan 
I managed to remove the front screws without removing the door but in retrospect I could have easily chipped the glass with my socket head driver.
actually, I never found the screw that holds the upper left-hand corner so firmly, but was able to pry the side open enough to pull loose the cable and redo the camera with hot glue on the fitting. An amazing pain in the butt. I have no idea why they don’t provide some cable slack as I believe it’s impossible to reconnect the camera without pulling the side off. thanks for all the help
Oh wow… I made the mistake of removing my camera today. this is absolutely ridiculous. The video for removal is on an X1C and that ribbon cable is much longer. I really wish there was a warning about the P1S cable. Incredibly counter intuitive to have to remove the entire side panel just for one cable connection. My 5 minute job of changing my light has turned into a total fiasco.
Same here. I made the grave mistake of dislodging the camera connector in my P1S. It turns out that to reconnect the camera, you have to take apart the entire front door, display, wifi antenna, front cover, rear metal panel, and part cooling fan… Now, my printer is out of service, sitting disassembled in my office and I’m feeling overwhelmed, trying to track the 50+ screws I took out of my printer. I can’t fathom why this had to be so difficult. My 5 minute lighting upgrade has now taken over my whole weekend and I still need to put the thing back together now, which I am dreading.
Bambu, please address this in future versions. Your target audience are tinkerers. User serviceability needs to be a paramount concern.
Actually it isn’t. The target audience is for those that want a printer that works, without tinkering.
This may help you.
Not smacking you for that, just saying. These are not tinkering printers. Little mods here and there, but not like the bedslingers before it or Vorons.
I’m curious about this lighting. Can you give some more info?
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Fair enough. On the other hand, they provide detailed manuals and sell a large variety of spare parts, so they clearly want to make it possible to service their devices. Why, then, make it so difficult to replace something like a camera? (I say this as a former repair technician myself. I think the length of that cable was probably just an oversight in the design process.)
Anyway, I got it all reassembled and it’s working again. Phew.
As for the lights, I’m replacing the stock LED and the Panda Lux with some nice RGB LED strips. The main drawback with the Panda Lux is you’re not supposed to run it with the stock light at the same time. This way, I’ve got both LED strips running on an ESP8266. I set the current draw in WLED to stay well under the 1.5A max of the internal USB port. Seems to be working beautifully so far!
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The P1S (don’t have any other models) is a nightmare to work on.
Same story for the AMS units as literally all cables are made to just barely fit.
While in some rare cases this is good for interference issues there is better options…
It was at work when a service technician repaired a bed controller that this topic came up with us.
Many devices these days are manufactured like this famous Merc model that made it impossible to change the bulb for the headlight yourself.
Connectors are flimsy, cables seemingly way too short.
But it all suddenly makes sense when you see how those devices are manufactured.
There is a clear structure behind the design that lets it all come together.
Only problem is that this approach is an ‘all in one’ approach rather than a unit by unit approach.
And so components are linked together during the assembly stages that once completed are hard or impossible to reach without having to take most of the device or machine apart.
The technician explained it as triple dipping the customer and it goes like this:
- Make it unnecessarily hard to even open the housing or to get to serviceable parts.
- Make sure that some untrained person will have to spend lot of time working out how to make a seemingly impossible task happen.
- Make sure that along the way there will be enough unexpected hassles, like hard to deal with connectors, silicone glue or just too short cables to work with.
The result of this is the more customers decide NOT to DIY and to instead rely or having their devices and machined serviced.
Bambu could have done way better in terms of making things easier for us but they don’t have to.
Our grandparents still knew why it is good to know where to find the TV repair guy, we today just throw the TV away and get a new one as the repair costs often won’t justify the repair.
100 bucks to have it picked up and checked out, 250 for the replacement board as no one bothers to replace a 50 cents part on it, assembly, checking, delivering back and before you know it a simple backlight issue costs over 500 bucks to fix…
Our printers are no different, most components are defined as consumables with a limited lifespan.
Bambu prefers we send our machines back rather than trying to fix or modify them at home…