My plan is to put both my X1C (1000W) and a H2D (2200W) on the same 20A/240V (4800W, 3840W nominal) circuit.
I’d be super appreciative for someone to confirm that the 240V AC board works great.
You don’t need to own the H2D to ask their support these questions
Select the H2D and then General Inquiries, which includes pre-sale support. Then select the “Submit a Ticket” under the list of frequent questions that are automatically listed and describe your use case and questions in the ticket.
Oh good point I was looking inside “technical issues”. My bad. I asked the following:
Hi! I’d like to determine if this use case is valid and covered under warranty in Canada.
I have a NEMA 6-20R outlet on a 240V/20A circuit. It currently powers my X1C and it works great. I see that the H2D requires a separate AC Board to work on 240V.
The instructions to replace the AC board are at at: Replace H2D AC Board/AC board Cover | Bambu Lab Wiki
The “220V” version of the board was available yesterday on the store but disappeared today at: https://ca.store.bambulab.com/products/ac-board-h2d?id=576602785098129419Is changing the AC board supported by Bambu Lab and does it keep its UL certification in this use case?
Thanks!
I will update this thread with their answer.
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Nice. My gut instinct is that they will say it will void the warranty; but I’d love to be surprised. I was also thinking about running it on a 220v circuit and also figured it would be like the X1C as it mentioned it having a switching PSU. It’s not the end of the world for me and not something I’d really worry about replacing; however, if they’d still support it and all that is required is replacing the 1 AC board and then manually switching the PSU then I’d possibly consider it.
thats nice thank you for it
Another option you might consider is a 240/120 stepdown transformer, which you might be able to find for a reasonable price on ebay.
If they have a Neural in the receptable (and in the breaker panel), would be much easier and better to change the receptable to be 4 pin (Phase 1, Phase 2, Neutral, Ground), and use an adapter to just grab 1 phase, neutral, and ground.
Edit: With this method you can effectively pull 2 individual 20a 110v circuits, one for each printer. Not sure if there is a specific adapter for this.
In your case you are talking about running a US 110 printer on US 220? In that case you at least wouldn’t have to worry about the 50/60 Hz diff.
Just buy a separate power converter, it’s cheap and doesn;t require you to take the printer apart.
(EDIT They are like the “travel plugs” that tourists carry but a little more durable and reliable)
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- There is no 110 or 220 in the U.S. 2) Maybe don’t give electrical advice on frequency if you don’t know nominal voltages.
Most travel adapters do not change the voltage, and if they do, it will be very low amps. (I used to travel all the time). Fortunately majority of electronics support 110-240v input. Can’t do this with items like hair dryers or vacuum cleaners.
[quote=“nisparks, post:31, topic:157577, full:true”]
Most travel adapters do not change the voltage[/quote]
Yes this is why I said you need a power converter, not a travel adapter. They will be around $100 in the USA.
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Tell that to Bambu
| Electrical Requirements | Voltage | 100-120 VAC / 200-240 VAC, 50/60 Hz |
|---|---|---|
| Max Power* | 2200 W@220 V / 1320 W@110 V | |
| Average Power | 1050 W@220 V / 1050 W@110 V |
Yes, 120 has been the US standard since 1984.
110 and 220 are terms that are in use today as common terms even if not technically accurate but were historically.
And if I measure the the actual voltage at a receptical in my house it will usually be 117 or less because of line drop.
I was not intending to give “electrical advice” per say but pointing out the actuall challenge of the Hertz difference between the US and Europe. I have lived in both the US and Germany and know that there is a potential to damage equipment even if the voltage is converted properly.
But thanks for the concern.
Electrical engineer speaking here.
Although I don’t know the specifics of BL circuitry, My guess is that there is some current limiting circuitry for the bed. In that case the voltage is inconsequential, and the current would be limited to the same amperage no matter what the voltage is.
Alternatively, you can check the maximum power consumed by looking at the specs for the 120 and 240 machines. If the max power loads are the same, then regardless of the current, you are probably getting the same heating rate for the bed.
Finally, I think the most likely scenario is that their internal power boards provide the same voltage to the printer regardless of whether the input is 120V or 220V.
Just a wild guess. I hope this makes sense.
if i have a print farm i would want to have 220. you gain by having less amp, so in the end you need a smaller panel then the 120 
Amps are the same because with 220 you need two breakers.
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Folks, please stay on subject. OP’s question is simple.
We’re not looking for recommendations on how to plug a 240V outlet or if it’s better than 120V or if faster bed heating is worth it.
I’m looking at if it’s possible to mod an existing one. Here’s the official answer from Bambulab (weirdly signed as MakerWorld) from my support ticket:
2025-04-03 20:03:06
Hi there,Thank you for your patience.
We regret to inform you that we do not recommend changing the AC board, as the AP board, heated bed, and chamber heating module also come in 110V and 220V versions. Therefore, simply changing the AC board may not result in a successful modification.
We appreciate your understanding and support.
Best regards,
MakerWorld
This is news to me. These items are not on the store anymore so I suspect there has been an oversight. The only item left I could find is the Chamber Heater Unit.
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My advice to the OP or anyone looking to modify it… witness it before trying to modify it for the speed of heat up. Its quite fast.
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Sucks to hear that more things need to be changed for 240VAC supply. Am Canadian and ordered the AC board expecting that would be easy… Guess I’ll be returning it. Honestly I really wish Canadian customers could get the 240V right out of the box. Idiotic oversight… I don’t want reduced performance and the room already has the 240V circuit, and not enough 120V capacity. Tempting to cancel my H2D order until this makes sense… It seems ridiculous to run this machine on 120V service as it demands more than 80% of a 15 amp circuit at full load 
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yeah, honestly, even in the US this thing really makes sense to give a dedicated 240v circuit. I stupidly assumed this would be switchable on the unit. Or at least the voltage information purchased prominently at checkout. Deciding for customers based on their location is… a choice.