If I purchase an H2D in the US, will it be capable of running on a 220/240V circuit (and get the even higher current bed pre-heating)?
Nope has a sticker right on the back that says 120 or 220 only it’s not like the x1c that could run both
I could be interpreting that wrong though
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That seems to be pretty definitive. Thanks.
The wiki says the power supply can be feed both…?
Edit - Printers are specific to 110 or 220 as the AC board is different.
You will need to disassemble it and flip the 120-220v switch on the power supply to make it work with 220v. I zoomed in and can confirm it says “100-240v”.
Little more digging and it seems like the printer is specific for 110 or 220 as there is specific AC boards.
Ya so will need to swap boards too, not too expensive. Interestingly the CA store has both the 110 and 220v available for purchase, but not US store.
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I can send you one from Canada 
… just put in a good word with trump for us! 
But seriously if anyone needs one sourced, drop me a DM, glad to help.
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How much preheat time saving is expected with the 220V version?
I personally dont think the hassle is worth it… but to each their own.
Even if its a 20min heat up time on a 8 hour print, not a big deal, just count it as part of the total time. 3D printing is not a “I need it now!” technology, you must have some patience.
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So if you send me the board and I flip the switch on the power supply then I can plug it in the clothes dryer outlet? I’ll need some sort of plug adapter but I think this can work. But my bank account is no where near big enough for Trump to listen to anything I say 
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It should work but things to consider:
- this will surely invalidate your warranty
- you wont know for sure if it works until you try it
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There is no way ANY heat up takes 20 mins (unless you just want to heat soak it). The 110v version is way too fast. I’m generally up to 55C in less than a min (I believe Need it Make it timed the 70C heat up to 1:07 secs). I haven’t timed it, but its insane. No need to worry about making it faster unless Bambu comes to their senses and slows it down in firmware.
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FWIW, although I inquired about the faster heating time, that was really just a round about way of asking if it would need the same electrical requirements for any 240V H2D (even though it was a purchase for the US market). I have the ability to provide either 120V or 240V for the printer and was looking for a UPS that can handle the wattage required. I was actually finding better deals on 240V/1500W UPSes than 120V/1500W UPSes, but I’d need a 240V/2200W UPS and only then with making modifications to the printer that don’t seem worth the effort to save a bit on an UPS. I think I’ll just see how things go w/o any UPS for now. $500-$1000 pays for a lot of ruined prints.
If the internal components are using the 60hz cycle in US AC for timing of anysort (motors, internal step counting…) then they won’t do well even with a voltage converter because even though the voltage has been changed from 220 to 110 it’s running at 50 Hz rather than 60 Hz.
Edit, so yeah, go with what the manufacture states.
Can someone who has the H2D create a support ticket to ask if switching the AC board to the 220V version and connect to 240V would void the warranty, and report the answer here? Thanks!
I already installed a dedicated NEMA 6-20R outlet on 240V and do not have enough 120V wattage available in my room so it’s a big deal for me. I run my X1C on 240V and it significantly improved the heating performance.
Why would they have to know
At least they can confirm it would work, they may have already had done UL testing in this scenario.
Can you just split the 6-20 into a 5-15 @ 120v?
Edit: Disregard. No neutral in that receptacle. Not sure your situation, but I’ve installed one of these receptacles in my basement for a server rack, and just didn’t hook up the neutral. Maybe check if you have a neutral, then convert it to a NEMA 14-20R. From there you can put in a converter.