Can I print PAHT-CF on the (cool plate) Engineering plate?

Just going to try out the free PAHT-CF I got with my printer and noticed bed temps will be 100c. Do I need to buy the High Temperature Engineering plate or will the cool plate flipped over work?

I’ve always assumed the cool plate can take the temperature, but not the adhesion of the high temps. So flipping it to the Engineering plate side should be fine. But it is good to know that the reasons they state the cool plate is unsuitable for high temps, which are bubbles can form underneath the print surface and cause damage, and the material can be more fragile compared to the Engineering Plate.

Those two reasons seem as though they would be problematic even flipped over to the engineering side, but people have obviously used their base build plate and not had issues with it (due to the lack of complaints on that).

So, I don’t think its an issue, but oddly enough, their own literature seems to raise doubts about the stability of doing it. I’d assume this is one of the main the reasons the stickers are replaceable. All that said, follow their suggestions, cool plate for low temps, engineering plate for high temps. Also, I doubt you’d want to use the cool plate’s low temps for PAHT-CF any way. Probably would warp right off and fail fairly quick.

Thanks for the reply

Yeah I did a bit of research and it seems the engineering side of the cool plate is capable of tolerating temps up to 120c, but like you, I am a bit worried because the cool plate side will still be getting exposed to that high temperature (albeit being face down).

So I went ahead and tested it out using the engineering plate, covered it in the Bambu glue stick and the first layer wouldn’t adhere for some reason. I’m not sure if the PAHT-CF needs drying out first so that’s what I’m doing now…

Are you using the glue stick or the liquid glue? The product pages suggest the stick.

Per the PAHT CF page, the engineering plate and glue stick are recommended and liquid glue is in the not recommended side with the cool plate.

Also the amount of glue stick can create an issue too.

glue stick, I found the issue, the printer was still in its setup phase (bed leveling, lidar etc) but it had a string of filament oozing out the nozzle so I assumed looking at the camera that the print was failing when I think it was remnants of the PLA I had loaded before coming out the nozzle. I cleaned it up and restarted and it’s all good, halfway through the print now