Just finished dismantling and fixing my clogged P1S extruder. My fault—I’ve never owned a closed-chamber printer before and forgot that heat creep exists, so I went wild with the print settings.
Ideal settings would be a bed temperature of 55°C and a nozzle temperature of 210°C (PLA)
I don’t want to fix the extruder again tomorrow, so realistically, can you print 5–6 hour PLA prints with the door closed and the top on? How much impact do the chamber and auxiliary fans have? Any other tips to share?
I only ever print with PLA and wonder if I should have gone with the P1P instead, which is basically P1S with door open and top removed. However, the reduced noise of the P1S is really nice.
It is summer here and if you heard about this little island called Australia you might know what that means for average temperatures.
Heat creep almost drove me insane last summer.
I could accept it for the glow PLA but having normal PLA prints fail with the door open just because the filament got jammed between extruder wheels and hotend…
Winter sort of fixed that but also putting in a E3D Obxidian hotend - not for abrasive filaments…
Right now I half way through very detailed dragon print in plain PLA.
27 degrees Celsius in the room with printer, the door and lid closed and not expecting any issues.
And the default speed is 450mm/s…
Fun fact: Blocking from heat creep and print speed are related, especially retraction speeds
As long as the filament keeps coming out more or less consistently nothing ever happens.
All the bad things start to happen with retractions or once the flow rate goes below the speed of which the heat creeps up the filament.
If you do a lot of long hour or even full day prints considering a E3D is a good idea, or one of the other reputed high flow hotends…
