I see the wiki has guide for (H2D) 85A and 90A, but not for 95A TPU. Can this be printed “as normal” ? I know I cant use AMS, but other than that can it be printed through normal (left or right) inlet, PTFE tubes and “warm” pulling ?
Or should i use TPU inlet and cold pulling etc?
You indeed need to use the TPU bypass (right nozzle) and do a cold pull. Only TPU for AMS can be treated as a normal filament like PLA.
1 Like
Yes you should use the TPU inlet and you should cold pull. I mean simply by holding the filament in hand you would understand how flexible this thing is.
Rather than performing cold pull everytime you use TPU why not purchase a spare nozzle and simply dedicate it to TPU, it’s so easy to replace on the H2D.
2 Likes
May I ask why you’re suggesting a cold pull? I haven’t needed it on my X1 Carbon, and I don’t see a reason to perform one on my H2D either. I’ve printed many kilos of TPU 95A HF on my X1 Carbon, and not once have I needed to do a cold pull when switching filament.
2 Likes
Ideally you should be recalibrating bed mesh and nozzle offset with a new nozzle, which takes about 30 minutes
For 95A HF it’s basically worry free, you can skip the cold pull part. For 90A it’s a bit worrysome for 0.4mm nozzles (and the HF nozzles are marked as in-compatible now). For 85A bambu don’t even recommend you to print with 0.4mm anymore.
New nozzle requires nozzle offset, the bed mesh would remain the same.
I print a lot of 95A and i use the 0.4 HF nozzle with no problems. Also I dont do anything if the last material I printed in the right hot end is PLA or PETG. If it was a high temp material like nylon I flush the hot end with a short strand of cleaning filament. To speed things up with TPU I have a splitter inside and a dual feed outside to have the TPU tube always connected and ready to go.
Nice setup! Ah good to know HF works fine, then a can stop changing nozzle 
I’ll do the Y split too!
I had a hard time printing with 95A using the spool holder. Generated too much friction. I tried just running it through the top with the glass plate off but it failed when the filament got tangled in the print head. Once the TPU got tangled up, I couldn’t recover the print and had to start over. I tried just using the bypass but that didn’t work unless you have a straight shot into the back of the printer and the filament is on rollers. Finally it’s working for me via the bypass with the filament mounted in a cyclops heater and I am drying it constantly as it’s getting pulled out. The cyclops has exit holes and the filament is on rollers. I suspect the drying is overkill but it certainly seems to be helping.
Using Amolen 95A TPU.
Ive had no problems running Bambu 95A, 95A HF, Overture and other generic brand 95A TPU from side spool with the bypass hole. I even have some extra resistance due to the splitter I have inside the chamber, but everything prints perfectly.
It will not. Nozzles are not perfectly aligned.
Explain how swapping out a nozzle will change the physical dimensions of the build plate? The Nozzle calibration is a distance relationship between the 2 nozzles.
You would imagine the tip of nozzle is flat, parallel to the bed, but in reality it’s not, there’s always a slight angle and it changes everytime you installed a new nozzle due to the design of the hotend seat.
That would only affect Z dim which the printer picks up on every homing cycle. The bed mesh remains the same.
The bed isn’t flat. Let’s assume your nozzle is slightly higher on the left side, lower on the right side.
You would get a higher z on the bed where the bed is high on right and low on left.
You would get a lower z on the bed where the bed is high on left and low on right.
I am not really following you. Regardless of the length of the new nozzle, the shape of the bed is not changing. So a new bed mesh is not needed.
Only a different offset between the nozzles.
1 Like