Any advice will be greatly appreciated, and I will even send you $20 if the print works for me.
Thanks,
Robert
Do a temp tower calibration, you’re extruding too hot. Then, do manual flow and PA calibrations.
You don’t say what plastic. If you own a filament dryer, you should dry the filament before doing the cals. If you don’t own a filament dryer, you should get one and dry the filament before doing the cals. 
Probably, temperature (lower) will have the biggest and most immediate positive effect. But if the printer is knocking over those “slats” while printing, it’s because of over-extrusion in which case, see comments above about cals and drying.
Hi,
Sorry. ASA - FlashForge. 260 nozzle, 100 bed.
ASA definitely needs drying unless it’s already known to be dry. And 260 is probably 20º hotter than it needs to be.
Cool. Thanks. I usually print that at flipped over and the supports are mainly on the bottom of the inside ring. I do this, because I want the outer side to be nice, as this is what people will see when then look at it. I am curious to see how it will turn out in the orientation.
I print FlashForge at 255*
The AMS has the silica beads and says very low humidity. Do you think that I still need to dry it?
I was doing 255, but it was not sticking to the plate. I have not lowered it back to 255, but will try that.
I have two other printers, along with my Bambu printers. They also have the same issue, except they don’t knock the slats over. The rounded blade side prints well, but the sharp inside looks the same as the above photos.
Slow down the first layer by a lot, that may help with adhesion. I run my first layer at 40mm/s. I hardly ever have problems. I’m still using the same Engineering and Cool plates that came with my X1C >1 year ago…
If the filament needs to be dried, that will also interfere with adhesion.
I am trying a print of about a 20 degree arc at 250 nozzle. I’ll post what happens.
I stopped the print, the fins were flexing.
I did flip it over & didn’t use support from the model you posted.
The silica beads with moisture indication is an often misunderstood product which leads to false assumptions. They only indicate the moisture level of the silica itself and when it need drying or replacement; they provide no information about the moisture content of the filament. They really should put a label on these containers informing customers of this.
Heat is the most effective way to remove moisture. While some may argue that storing filament in a dry container—such as an AMS reading 0% humidity—will dry it, this process takes weeks to months. Applying heat releases moisture much faster.
The only reliable way to confirm moisture is the issue is to weigh the filament, dry it, and weigh it again. With Flashforge filament, which typically comes on a plastic spool, you won’t need to account for moisture in a cardboard core. Use the X1 bed drying mode documented in this wiki. Although 65°C for ten hours is the recommendation, it likely won’t take that long. Start the process, weigh it after an hour—if it’s losing weight, that indicates moisture is being removed. If there’s no change, there’s no need to continue. Keep drying until the weight stabilizes; at that point, the removable moisture has likely been purged. Try to refrain from going over 70°C or you may wind up with a mess that is well documented here in this post.
Here’s a diagnostic step that uses much less filament: print a cone primitive with roughly the same height and diameter as your model, and print it in vase mode. This produces a quick 31-minute test instead of a 5-hour print, allowing for faster and more filament-efficient testing. It’s also a demanding test, as the single-wall print will reveal even minor calibration issues.
While this may not solve your issue, it may make the print perform better overall.
Switch to Arachne which will leave few gaps in the corners of the filament internal walls. In your model, it may only be seen to have an effect at the base but it doesn’t hurt to turn it on.
Change the wall order to outer/inner. This should have a noticable effect because the outer walls will set up first. It may make it worse if the filament is not properly calibrated but it’s a good diagnostic step.
Set the following parameters:
This sill give you a very nice smooth series of walls that will have no infill pattern and aid in setting up a good track for the filament to cool properly. 
Here’s what it looks like without painting in blockers. The supports want to crawl through the grid.
Paint blockers on(red) and Green for yes
And you get a supports that are easier to remove that won’t mess with your top surface.
