Can't get consistent quality from X1C

I’m pretty much done with this printer up to this point. This is the fifth 3D printer I’ve owned and it’s the most frustrating of all so far. I don’t know if it’s because they’re pushing the boundaries of speed/quality but every time I print something it ends up with a defect of sorts.

I keep getting told about settings changes, flow rates, temperatures, fan speeds, bed types. All things to check or change or play with. Just work already ya know?

After a disastrous print on eSun purple filament (printing the built-in storage tray) today, I decided to print it with the supplied Bambu Labs orange filament. I thought surely this should produce perfection. But again I am let down. Holes in the sides of the print (looks like a seam issue) and one corner was deformed even though I covered the entire bed in glue, it still seems to have warped.

I just don’t know what I can do to make this thing impress me.



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Looking at how bad your sides look, have you checked if both belts are tensioned the same, aka have the same frequency? It might be a mechanical problem, not one in software.
And where is the printer located? Tried to print on the floor, sometimes the table or whatever it might be located onto swings too much for good print quality.

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No? I assumed that would have all been checked in the factory right?

I have it on the floor on two wooden slats, I tried it on a table when I first got it but it vibrates way too much for that.

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I check my belts weekly as per the Bambu Lab maintenance wiki. Since i print ABS I do this wiki every weekend.

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They most likely are checked at the factory, but the printer gets transported, and transport is often not very gentle.

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Totally agree with “Thrown”. Best thing to do is always do a maintenance check even on a brand new machine. I’ve seen how things are transported and bounce around. This will definitely take your machine out of factory specs.

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wizardbynight> As far as the defects on side - is it on the same spot where seam is located? If so, you can adjust slicer settings to move it to location, where it’s going to be less visible.

Deformation on second image - I’ve had similar issue a few times and it was caused by placing object too close to exhaust of fan, which blows air over print surface. After printing 5 layers, corner of printed object separated from heatbed and this caused warping of printed object on one side. Solution is simple. Either move objects farther from fan exhaust or use brims with zero gap.

Also, I agree with everyone else, who is recommending to perform maintenance and cleaning. Even though BambuLab has done good job automating most regular calibration procedures, there are still some details, which must be checked manually.

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Only issue I have with that is it’s a preinstalled print that is supposed to showcase the capabilities of your new printer, so to have to take that model and edit print parameters to get it to look acceptable surely isn’t right?

I’ve checked over the machine today, everything still looks like it came out the factory, all those maintenance checks are seemingly visual/dirt cleaning stuff and I’ve only had the printer for 2 months with little use because of how unimpressed I am every time I use it. I’m still relying on my Creator Pro 2 for my main work as I can throw any filament or design at it and it just does its job.

With regard to the fan issue, I’ve seen other people complain about this too, so if it’s an issue and affecting prints it’s clearly a design flaw with the printer? The same way the carbon filter apparently doesn’t do it’s job properly and the flow-rate sensor doesn’t actually adjust the flow-rate…

Moving the print out of the way of the fan? I mean come on, I just paid £1500 for this machine and one of the main benefits for me was the increased bed size over my CP2, and now it’s recommended to move the print away from the fan. The pre-installed compartment tray design is too big to move anyway…

What I would really appreciate is if someone on here could also print that storage tray with the standard Bambu PLA and let me know if theirs comes out like that, because at least then I have a baseline to work with

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Those pre sliced gcodes in the internal memory suck, they don’t showcase anything as far as I’m concerned

If you want that tray printed I would suggest finding it on one of many the STL websites like Thingiverse, Printables, Cults, etc. And slicing the file using whatever slicer engine you are currently using

I’m not bashing the printer itself, in fact my X1C with the AMS runs and prints like a champ faster and with better quality than any of my other printers

With that being said I like a few others have modified my X1C to get the most out of it

Stock printer, reslice the file and check for any errors before sending the print

Don’t give up yet, these printers are amazing but as even the Prusa fans found out recently the perfect out of the box printer does not exist

Once you get successful prints and are able to dial it all in you will be a happy camper like many of us are with these printers

If you require some slicer setting suggestions just ask and I like many others in here will be happy to help providing the profiles you are loking for

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Any chance you can send me a model to print with your settings and I’ll do the exact same on mine so we can compare? (Preferably using Bambu PLA)

Thanks

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STL files used by Bambu: Links to STL models | Bambu Lab Wiki

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When I get home from work I’ll post a file and settings for you to do a direct comparison

I do have the upgraded nozzle now but there are still pre saved files for my genuine Bambu Lab nozzles which performed perfectly and produce the exact same results

Maybe I can pre slice a file, post it on my Thingiverse account or my Printables account and put up a link

I’ll do my best to set you up with what should work nice

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Cheers buddy, I appreciate it :+1:

This is the best I can do for the moment

If they both print well I’ll post up the settings

Unfortunately once you import the Gcode you aren’t able to see or change the settings so I’ll have to do the ol screenshot fiasco and plop em down here

I gotta eat dinner, shower, get about 4 hours of sleep and go back to the grind

Yes, they are stupid Benchy’s

One is basically my fast quality settings and the other is just my basic quality settings both for PLA plus but work fine for regular Bambu PLA

You might need to drop the print temps by 2 or 3 degrees but they should be ok as is

Have at er

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5989659/files

hey the link doesn’t work?

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Sorry
I’ll just post up some settings when I’ve got time
Hopefully after work today I can send you some screenshots of some settings that should work well
Depends on what time I make it home tonight, that on call life is killing me right now :man_facepalming:

I had the same start issues with my x1c and I came from a workhorse prusa mk3+ which I unfortunately sold to afford the bambu. It took me a while and now I am slowly starting to get warm with the printer.
But same like you it took a while and I didn’t understand the hype around it.
I assembled my Prusa myself and from that day I finsihed it, it worked without any issue, with any filament I feeded it and it never clogged, i had never Spaghetti, I barely cleaned it, never used glue for the heatbeds, I even barely cleaned the heatbeds with Isopropanol, In 3 years I had maybe 4 or 5 new nozzles from E3d and I disabled all prepare jobs just the short bed leveling and the purge line. And what should I say, I clicked on print, walked away, came back and always perfect results and if not it was my fault because of bad design or bad supports. And I must say I use it just for engineering parts which are complicated, not the typical waste prints with toys, action figures and dust collectors for the shelf.

With the bambu now 2 weeks working for me I had 10 clogged nozzles including dissambling the extruder each time, I am using the 3rd new nozzle as I couldn’t get good results anymore with the old clogged ones after cleaning. I have to wait about 5-7 minutes until my print starts (Prusa was finished with small parts in that time), I waste filament every time a print starts, I had my first spagehtti although this thing should have a camera and AI for that to prevent and last but not least it is loud!

Anyways, I can’t go back so I started to work me through. I bought every nozzle size and every filament bambu offers and started to test things out. Now I found a few settings for PETG-CF I can live with, but to all the people telling me they just print and print with their x1c out-of-the-box without any issues, either they just print toys with PLA or I am doing wrong.

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Pretty much the same experience for me only I have a Creator Pro 2 not a Prusa. Luckily I didn’t need to sell it to fund the X1C, although the plan was to sell it and move all my work over to the new machine, but that hasn’t been possible. I still use CP2 for most my prints. Barely ever had to service it, it never clogs whatever filament I throw at it, no glue on the print bed, no flow rate tests, no seam issues, no holes in prints, no impossible to remove supports, no spaghetti, no prints lifting off the bed, I just set it to print and it does the job. I know there’s a good printer in there with the X1C but they need to sort the firmware out because it takes WAY too much experimentation and messing around to find a solution to nearly everything you print. There hasn’t been a single occasion where I’ve printed something and it’s just worked first time. This thing needed at least another year in the oven imo.

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