I dont think that will help. I have already been through this problem and the solution was using the Textured Plate with this setting:
I’m not sure if you’ve taken the time to read, but I mentioned that the textured plate works just fine, no problems. I want to use the Engineering plate, and that’s what I’m having trouble with. Also, the default setting is for “no cooling for the first 3 layers” and that’s what I have always used on every plate so far.
Unfortunately, the Bambu plates are designed to work best with glue stick or other similar/traditional adhesion/release agents. Hairspray or Windex has worked great for some, and Bambu also makes a liquid glue now too.
I use the Wham Bam plate for a glue-free alternative, but PETG is one where it can stick TOO good and Wham Bam recommends…wait for it… glue stick… Well, they suggest glue stick if their other advice does not work for you like lowering the temp from the default PETG filament profile and raising the z-offset in gcode to not squish it into the plate as hard. I have been using the default PETG-CF profile and it has released OK, although I have had to spend some time with some 000 steel wool and some IPA to work off bits of stubborn nano-adhesion spots. Regular PETG I lowered the filament temps in a copy of the generic profile and it released fine without adjusting gcode (at least for my Sunlu PETG).
Yes, Finsterwald is correct.
Ensure Eng plate is free of manufacturer oils by cleaning with Windex and water.
Then wipe with IPA.
No part cooling for 3 or more layers (eliminate part cooling all together if possible)
Nozzle temp 230 plus (try 250, depends on speed)
Bed temp 70 plus (try 80).
-Uman
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As always when you get trouble on first layer not sticking, try to reduce the first layer infill speed (to something like 30mm/s), this may help a lot.
Hi DzzD,
you mean “First Layer” speed to 30mm/s right? Infill is something else and he should not change it from 105 to below right?
I also change the value below from 50 to 30 mm/s to get a perfect 1st layer.
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nop, I mean first layer infill, I already have problem on lowcost filaments that was resolved by reducing this setting
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lol I destroyed the Wham Bam plate by printing PETG. The whole wham surface got messed up and I had to throw it away.
hey DzzD, I usually always set “First Layer” speed from 50 to 30 or 40. I never tough the First layer infill speed, which is setup to 105.
What are the best values for Frist Layer 50 default and First Layer infill 105 default?
There is no best setting, 105mm/s works well for most PLA, but if you got some sticking problem with a filament, you can try to lower to 30mm/s to check if it come from the speed, then if it works you know the problem come from the speed for this filament and can try a bit faster than 30mm/s.
Thanks for the replies everyone. I wanted to update this thread to report what has worked for me (so far). Here’s what I did:
- Very lightly wiped the engineering plate with a magic eraser
- Washed with dish soap
- Wiped with IPA
- Set first layer speed to 30mm/s
- Set bed temp to 80C
I’ve done a few prints and so far it’s printing well on the engineering plate.
I also wanted to report something with the high temperature plate. I pretty much wrote that one off because everything I read said that one MUST use glue with the high temp plate and PETG. When I couldn’t get the engineering plate to print well I tried a print on the high temp plate with glue and the part simply lifted off when cool, almost no adhesion at all. So I tried the same print again WITHOUT glue and it printed very well and still came right off the plate without any need to flex etc. It just popped off when the plate was cool. So I printed several other parts in PETG with the high temp plate and they all came out well and no problems at all getting them off the plate.
Perhaps the PETG I am using (Paramount) doesn’t stick as well as other PETG brands, and that’s why I was having issue with the engineering plate, and why the high temp plate does not need glue to work well. Who knows.
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after several tests with Extrudr PETG filament (www.extrudr.com), I get the best results with the following settings:
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I used to use the textured plate from bambu, but without the LIDAR scanner and the first layer inspection (not possible with the textured plate because of the surface), I have the impression that my print quality is overall better and more consistent with the engineering plate
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So I swapped the textured plate and replaced it by the egineering plate. I use the liquired glue from bambu instead of the glue stick, as I feel that the liquid is easier to add on the surface
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With the following settings, I get very consistence quality and have no warping, spagetti or any other issues:
The only thing I changed from the generic PETG is the temps of the noozle and the flow rate. I did not mess with the cooling setup:
Note:
a) I clean the engineering plate every 3 - 4 prints with Isoprop.
b) Right after that I add the liquied glue
c) The mix of Isoprop along with the luqied glue creates a very good adhesion layer and with the glue, the prints are very easy to remove and they dont burn into the plate
Based on my experience, the engineering plate is better than the textured plate. Sure you dont need glue for the textured plate, but at what cost? You skip the LIDAR scanner and first layer inspecation. You paid for that and dont want to skip it right?
I also experience similiar issue with engineering plate for petg. Tried alot of methods like raising temperature, glue or without glue. Even clean with IPA or wash with soap, petg VERY EASILY DETACH.
I found a method which can let petg to stick strongly, but please use with cautious. Wipe the engineering plate with thinner (do not wipe the area with marker cause this solven will remove the marker.
Yes, Finsterwald is correct, using the Bambu Labs petg basic, I have had success with using rubbing alcohol to wipe the engineering plate clean after -every- petg print. I also have the first layer nozzle temp at 170 bet temp at 70. HIH
Had similar issues with Polymaker PETG. The first step was to use higher temperature for printing bed (80 degrees). Second thing was use of DimaFix adhesive spray. Treated once, and after that is was good enough to stick without additional coating.
Also, this is the nice tread about PETG settings:
could not get my PETG to stick to the engineering plate. This Aqua net trick saved the day!! thanks man!
cant seem to find this setting ?
Ok found this and the setting is set to no cooling first three layers and still having problem not sticking to plate. 
I’ve been using Esun white PETG, and initially, it wouldn’t adhere to any of the plates, despite thorough cleaning. However, I managed to get good results using a textured plate heated to 80°C with an initial layer speed of 10mm/s. Next, I plan to test the engineering plate using the same settings to see if it yields similar success.
I print with mostly PETG (many brands) using the engineering plate. I have standard settings that work with them all. So I don’t re-slice for each brand.
First, I set the bed temperature to 80C.
Second, if your using the hardened steel nozzle, you need to up the temperature of the nozzle by 20C. I run it at 265C. All the filament manufacturer’s told me the same thing, that the temperature they suggest is for brass nozzles. They conduct heat better than hardened steel. I also use Vision Minor’s Nono Polymer adhesive for a sticking and release agent. I have found it works really well. It is expensive up front, but I only have to treat the surface once every 30 or more prints, so the cost is not an issue. The only time I clean with IPA is when I treat with the Nano Polymer Adhesive. I just remove the print and sometimes wipe it with a micro fiber cloth.
Lastly, keep the nozzle clean. If it is not, it can fool the bed leveling algorithm and it doesn’t push the filament down onto the bed enough to connect to the adhesive. Once I started started doing the aforementioned things, this was the only issue I had. Once I started doing this, I can’t remember the last time I had an issue with a print not sticking and I don’t use brims.